হিউ-এর পাঁচ-প্যানেলের "আও দাই" বাখকে জনসাধারণের সামনে আনার যাত্রা

In the vibrant tapestry of contemporary Vietnamese culture, the Ao dai continues to stand as a lasting emblem of traditional beauty. Yet, amid the fast-paced evolution of modern society, some values once considered timeless now face the risk of fading away.

 That is precisely the case of the Hue five-panel Ao dai (áo dài ngũ thân), a unique heritage garment that once represented the standard of Vietnamese elegance for nearly two centuries, but which has gradually been overshadowed by modern fashion trends.

 Bringing the five-panel Ao dai back into everyday life is therefore not merely a story about clothing; it is a journey of cultural revival, an effort to safeguard the precious craft knowledge of the former imperial capital. 

 

 Photo 1: Officials of the Department of Culture and Sports of Hue city in traditional five-panel Ao dai.

 A distinctive heritage of the ancient capital

 The Ao dai originated in Đàng Trong (the southern region of historical Vietnam). In 1744, Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát officially chose this garment as everyday attire for his subjects. Later, under Emperor Minh Mạng in the early 19th century, the Ao dai became the national dress of the Vietnamese people. For nearly 300 years, the Ao dai, especially the five-panel form, carried both aesthetic standards and moral values, reflecting the philosophy and virtues of Vietnamese society.

 Nowhere embraced the Ao dai as deeply as Hue. As the former capital of the Nguyễn Dynasty, Hue is home to strict imperial dress codes and refined royal aesthetics, which influenced and shaped the local gown style. For generations, Hue women wore Ao dai wherever they went, going to school, to the market, rowing on the Perfume River, or attending ceremonies. Men, too, donned the traditional long gown during weddings, rituals, or ancestral worship.

 Behind this beauty lies a rich body of craftsmanship: precise cutting techniques, handcrafted buttons, artful pleating, and an exceptional understanding of how to create a silhouette that honors the dignity of the wearer. These skills have been passed down for generations among families in Gia Hoi - Cho Dinh, Kim Long, Vy Da, Phu Xuan, Phu Cam, and other heritage neighborhoods.

 Challenges and the risk of fading traditions

 As industrialization and modern fashion trends grow, traditional Hue Ao dai, especially the five-panel style, faces increasing challenges. Ready-made garments, mass-produced souvenir Ao dai, and overly decorative modern designs have appeared widely, often lacking the sophistication, restraint, and grace that characterize the true Hue style.

 A more pressing concern is the loss of traditional craftsmanship. The elderly artisans who hold the deepest knowledge of sewing techniques, form structure, and cultural meaning are aging, and fewer young people are choosing to take up the profession. Many families that once preserved the craft through three or four generations now find themselves without successors.

 The rise of convenient ready-to-wear Ao dai has led many young people to move away from tailored garments. As a result, the priceless knowledge of traditional Ao dai making, once ingrained in daily life, is at genuine risk of disappearing.

 Efforts to revive the heritage: from community to leadership

 Recognizing the urgency, the city of Hue and the Department of Culture and Sports have undertaken significant initiatives to protect, revive, and promote the value of traditional Ao dai.

 Heritage identification and documentation

 Authorities have conducted surveys on artisan families, tailoring workshops, and traditional craft neighborhoods to build an initial database of Ao dai heritage knowledge.

 Research and preservation

 Researchers and cultural experts have collected historical materials, interviewed artisans, documented sewing techniques, and recreated traditional patterns, from neckline structure to button making. These efforts lay the foundation for long-term digital preservation.

 Promotion and public engagement

 Hue was the first locality in Vietnam to organize an Ao dai festival (Festival Hue 2002). Since then, Ao dai shows have become iconic cultural events, drawing widespread attention from domestic and international visitors. The annual Community Ao dai Week further encourages the public to participate in preserving and celebrating this garment. The city also offers free entrance to imperial sites for visitors wearing Ao dai, and many rental services allow tourists to experience the garment firsthand.

 

 Photo 2: Ao Dai Week is responded by many Hue students.

 The revival of the five-panel Ao dai: bridging past and present

 The five-panel Ao dai is now experiencing a strong resurgence. Its revival does not aim for rigid preservation but seeks to harmonize tradition with modern taste.

 Cultural pride reawakened

 More young people in Hue are now aware of the Ao dai’s cultural significance. They proudly participate in parades, festivals, and school events wearing five-panel gowns, helping this heritage remain relevant and vibrant.

 Passing on traditional techniques

 Artisans have begun teaching their craft through workshops, exhibitions, and community programs. Videos and social media platforms help spread knowledge about traditional cutting techniques, button-making, and the symbolic meanings behind the garment.

 A foundation for artistic innovation

 Contemporary designers increasingly explore the five-panel gown for fashion shows, photo collections, and cultural events. By blending traditional silhouettes with modern colors and patterns, they introduce the garment to new audiences while preserving its original spirit.

 The 2025-2030 Strategy: a solid path toward long-term heritage preservation

 Hue is implementing the project “Management, Protection and Promotion of Hue Ao dai Craft Knowledge (2025-2030)”, aiming to:

- Build a comprehensive database on Hue Ao dai;

- Support artisans, young tailors, designers, and related industries;

- Strengthen the craft value chain for fashion and tourism;

- Establish Ao dai as a signature cultural tourism product of Hue;

- Promote the five-panel gown internationally to assert Hue’s position as the heart of Ao dai heritage.

 A heritage that lives when embraced by the community

 Bringing the five-panel Ao dai back to modern life requires more than institutional support, it needs the participation of the entire community. Every person who wears the Ao dai, every artisan who continues the craft, every designer who reimagines the form, and every visitor who chooses to experience it contributes to the survival of a cultural treasure. 

 

Photo 3: Hue women in traditional Ao dai.

 The five-panel Ao dai is not just a garment; it is a living symbol of Vietnamese identity and Hue’s cultural depth. Its revival marks the return of a timeless beauty, ensuring that this heritage continues to flourish in the modern era./.

 

Text: Quynh Lien, Photo: Dieu Quyen