The old Dai Hoang village, known by the familiar name "Vu Dai village" in Nam Cao's work, was originally a low-lying area with many ponds and lakes. Every year-end, the villagers would drain their ponds and select large, firm-fleshed black carp to stew for Tet (Lunar New Year). Over the years, this rustic dish has not only been a part of family reunion meals but has also become a famous specialty throughout the country. Currently, Nam Ly commune has nearly 300 households engaged in the fish stewing business. During the Tet season, many establishments have to hire extra workers, work in shifts, and keep the fires burning continuously to meet delivery deadlines. The atmosphere in the village during these days is always filled with smoke and the crackling sound of burning wood.
At the Ba Kien braised fish establishment of Mr. Nguyen Ba Toan's family, hundreds of clay pots of braised fish fill the yard, emitting thick smoke. Workers take turns tending the stoves, adjusting the fire, adding water, and keeping the pots simmering for hours. According to Mr. Toan, every step is meticulous to produce a standard pot of braised fish. The clay pots are sourced from Nghe An to ensure durability and high heat resistance; the lids are purchased from Thanh Hoa with a dome design to maintain stable heat. The main ingredient is black carp weighing 5-8 kg each, raised for 2-3 years on snails to ensure firm flesh that doesn't fall apart even after prolonged braising. The fish are kept alive until processing to ensure freshness. After initial preparation, the fish are cut into large pieces and marinated with more than 10 types of spices such as galangal, ginger, dried onions, and fish sauce, according to each family's secret recipe.
The fish is simmered continuously for 12–16 hours using longan wood, a type of wood that produces a rich, stable flame and a distinctive aroma. “Simmering fish seems simple, but it’s actually very hard work. Initially, you have to bring it to a boil over a high fire, then just keep the embers glowing and constantly monitor the fish to ensure it’s always submerged. The finished product must have a glossy amber color, tender bones, firm flesh, and no fishy smell,” Toan shared.
On average, Toan's establishment sells about 10,000 pots of braised fish annually, priced from 600,000 to 1.1 million VND per pot depending on size. This year, for Tet (Lunar New Year), approximately 4,000 pots are expected to be sold. The establishment has had to hire 7 additional workers in shifts to meet the demand. Besides the traditional line, in recent years, his family has also developed a "Royal Tribute" braised fish line priced from 1-2 million VND per pot. This product uses only the middle section, the most delicious part of the black carp, braised in thick, glazed clay pots and packaged in luxurious boxes, targeting the high-end gift segment.
Because no preservatives are used, Vũ Đại village's braised fish can only be preserved for about 3 days at room temperature and 1 week in the refrigerator. This meticulous preparation and limited shelf life further enhances the dish's value. From a dish of the lowland countryside, Vũ Đại village's braised fish has now spread far and wide, appearing on the Tet (Lunar New Year) dinner tables of many families, becoming a meaningful gift, and even a souvenir brought back by overseas Vietnamese when they return home.
Amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life, the glowing embers of the hearths burning all night in the traditional craft villages not only produce thousands of pots of fish worth millions of dong, but also preserve a rich Tet flavor, imbued with the soul of Vietnamese rural life.
Source: https://tienphong.vn/ca-kho-lang-vu-dai-mon-an-nha-que-thanh-dac-san-ngay-tet-post1820757.tpo
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