Soft and fragrant, with the flavor of banh chung and banh giay (traditional Vietnamese rice cakes).

In the days leading up to Tet (Vietnamese Lunar New Year), the villages in Hai Phong that make banh chung and banh giay (traditional Vietnamese rice cakes) are bustling with activity during the "busiest season of the year," both to earn a living and to preserve the traditional flavors of the Vietnamese Tet holiday.

The sticky rice cake (Bánh chưng) from Lê Đại Hành ward is famous far and wide.

Staying up all night to make sticky rice cakes at Thuy Duong.

In Thuy Nguyen ward, famous for its Thuy Duong sticky rice cakes, the atmosphere of cake-making in the days leading up to Tet (Lunar New Year) is even more bustling. In a small house in Bac 2 residential area, the kitchen of Mr. Nguyen Tat Lo's family (born in 1957) is bustling with activity from night until morning. Having been in the business for over 20 years, Mr. Lo said: "On normal days, I wrap more than 100 sticky rice cakes according to orders. On the 15th and 1st of the lunar month, the number doubles. During Tet, my family wraps more than 1,000 cakes a day, with orders constantly increasing." His hands still nimbly arranging leaves and measuring rice, Mr. Lo shared that normally only he and his son work, but from the 23rd of the 12th lunar month onwards, he has to hire extra help to wash leaves, boil, and press the cakes. Four boiling pots, each holding 150-450 cakes, operate day and night to ensure timely delivery to customers the next morning.

Not far away, the family of 80-year-old Nguyen Tat La, Mr. Lo's older brother, was equally busy. Mr. La, along with his children, grandchildren, and assistants, divided the tasks among themselves: some washed the rice and beans, others prepared the meat and wrapped the cakes. During the peak of Tet, his family wrapped 800-1,000 banh chung (traditional Vietnamese rice cakes) per day, sending them to many provinces and cities across the country, and even abroad. "Although it's hard work, it's very enjoyable. Each cake carries the taste of Tet from our hometown to everywhere," Mr. La said with a gentle smile.

According to the producers, the secret to Thuy Duong's signature sticky rice cake lies in the selection of ingredients. The glutinous rice must be fragrant and sticky, the mung beans thoroughly cleaned, and the pork fresh and seasoned with pepper and salt to taste. The banana leaves are carefully selected, washed, and dried before wrapping. The cakes are boiled for 12 hours to ensure long-term preservation. All these elements combine to create a cake with a vibrant green color, a fragrant aroma of sticky rice, and a rich, savory meat filling, giving Thuy Duong's sticky rice cake its unique flavor.

The bustling Le Dai Hanh pastry shop neighborhood.

Not only in Thuy Nguyen ward, but also in Le Dai Hanh ward, banh chung (traditional Vietnamese rice cakes) are famous far and wide. In the last days of the year, the Hoa Bang banh chung production facility in Bo Da residential area is bustling with activity. Everyone has a task, working rhythmically and quickly. The cakes, made without molds, are still square and firm, neatly arranged in the boiling pot.

Mr. Nguyen Tat Lo has been working in this profession for over 20 years.

Ms. Duong Thi Hoa (born in 1969), the owner of the establishment, said: “From the 20th day of the 12th lunar month, my husband and I wrap the cakes from night until morning. Our children and grandchildren handle tasks like vacuum sealing, labeling, and packing; I hire additional help to wash, cut, boil, and press the cakes. The wrapping process is done solely by my husband and me because we don't feel comfortable leaving it to others.”

According to Ms. Hoa, each banh chung (traditional Vietnamese rice cake) is not only a traditional Tet (Lunar New Year) dish but also a dignified gift, sent to esteemed guests from all over the country as well as international friends. Therefore, every step must be done carefully, especially the wrapping process, ensuring the cakes are both delicious and beautiful, upholding the family's reputation.

Thanks to its fertile alluvial soil, Le Dai Hanh ward has ideal conditions for cultivating the famous fragrant and sticky glutinous rice variety, "Nếp Cái Hoa Vàng". From this traditional rice variety, preserved through many generations, the people here create banh chung (traditional Vietnamese rice cakes), which have become a source of local pride.

While sticky rice cakes (bánh chưng) are an indispensable dish on the Tet (Lunar New Year) feast table, glutinous rice cakes (bánh giầy) are associated with the belief of offering sacrifices to heaven and earth during the Spring Festival. According to local elders, the craft of making glutinous rice cakes here is linked to glorious historical events. At the end of the 10th century, King Le Dai Hành chose this area as his headquarters to command the army and people in defeating the invading Song dynasty forces on the Bach Dang River in 981. At that time, glutinous rice cakes were one of the important provisions, providing sustenance for the army going into battle. After the victory, the king organized a feast for the troops, and glutinous rice cakes were offered to heaven and earth as a token of gratitude. Over hundreds of years, the craft of making glutinous rice cakes has been preserved and passed down from generation to generation, becoming a unique cultural feature of this region.

Ms. Tran Thi Chien, head of the An Lac rice cake production and business cooperative in Le Dai Hanh ward, said that on the 15th and 1st of the lunar month, or during holidays and Tet (Lunar New Year), the kitchens of more than 20 cooperative members are always busy. Using the ward's ancient glutinous rice variety, An Lac rice cakes are made entirely by hand. The glutinous rice is soaked thoroughly, steamed until cooked, pounded into a smooth paste, then shaped into round, white, soft, and naturally fragrant cakes without the use of preservatives. Notably, on the 26th of October and the 22nd of January each year, the people together cook rice cakes to offer as sacrifices at Cao Temple, a national historical monument since 1988. In 2022, An Lac rice cakes received OCOP 3-star certification.

In the days leading up to Tet (Lunar New Year), amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life, the image of people gathering around the fire, staying up late to cook traditional rice cakes, not only creates a lively and bustling atmosphere but also reminds us of the enduring values ​​of traditional crafts. With diligent hands, these rice cakes retain the authentic flavors of Tet, ensuring that with each passing spring, this cultural beauty continues to be preserved and spread.

TU ANH

Source: https://baohaiphong.vn/deo-thom-huong-vi-banh-chung-banh-giay-535926.html