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Unique Sa Phin market in the middle of the stone plateau

In the misty white mist covering the rocky mountains of Dong Van, groups of Mong and Dao people... wearing colorful brocade costumes slowly descend the mountain. Passing through the stone paths, they head towards the center of Sa Phin commune - where the unique market is gradually waking up every six days.

Báo Thanh niênBáo Thanh niên14/11/2025

Where to place trust

Sa Phin market is located on Highway 4C, next to the winding Happiness Road - the legendary route of the Dong Van stone plateau. This is one of the most unique and distinctive markets of this land.

Độc đáo chợ lùi Sà Phìn giữa cao nguyên đá- Ảnh 1.

Mong ethnic women shop at each Sa Phin market session.

PHOTO: DO TU

The market meets every six days, each session being one day later than the previous one. If this week it meets on Sunday, next week it will meet on Saturday, then Friday, Thursday…

That unique rhythm does not seem to follow the rules of modern time, but follows the rotation of the fields, of the corn season, the rice season, close to the land and sky of the Mong and Dao people here.

As scheduled, when the mist still covers the mountainside, despite the bumpy rocky road, people from distant villages still carry their goods down to the market, creating a colorful flow to the center of Sa Phin. From dawn to dusk, the market bustles with a distinctive sound: people chattering, soft bargaining, crisp laughter mixed in the fragrant cardamom smoke.

Here, people go to the market not only to exchange material things, but more importantly, to meet, to share - to see each other, to know that each other is still peaceful and healthy in the midst of a life in the highlands that is still full of hardship.

In the market space filled with agricultural products and laughter, the image of Mong women always stands out, attracting all eyes. They wear colorful brocade dresses - the colors seem to have the ability to "draw the sunlight" in the misty fog of the rocky plateau. They are the ones who keep the soul of the linen spinning and weaving profession - the profession that has nurtured and shaped the Mong ethnic identity for generations, is the "language" of costumes, is the silent "confession" of women.

Độc đáo chợ lùi Sà Phìn giữa cao nguyên đá- Ảnh 2.

Sa Phin market sells many local agricultural products.

PHOTO: DO TU

Going to the market, what everyone can easily see is the flax thread being spun that never leaves the hands of the Mong women. Whether they are shopping, chatting, or even enjoying a meal, their hands are still working diligently.

Each turn of the thin flax thread is like the beat of life, of the ceaseless diligence. Each flax thread is spun, woven, dyed indigo, hand-embroidered into dresses, shirts, scarves that are not only costumes, but also a way for people to put their soul, dreams and ingenuity into each needle and thread, creating mobile works of art.

Độc đáo chợ lùi Sà Phìn giữa cao nguyên đá- Ảnh 3.

A Mong woman sells goods and spins yarn.

PHOTO: DO TU

If flax is something that is never left their hands, then the basket on their back is their inseparable item. At the market, baskets follow baskets, creating a rustic flow of labor and culture. In the baskets there may be golden corn cobs, wild beans, rare wild honey, or a few brand new skirts. Simple exchanges take place in the warm and chirping Mong language, with little need for bargaining, because they exchange the trust and sincerity of the mountain people. That basket has entered into life, becoming an inseparable cultural feature of the Sa Phin people.

Taste of the Stone Plateau

Sa Phin Market is also a place that carries the rich colors and flavors of highland cuisine - a heartwarming treat in the cold of the gray rocky land. The steaming pot of horse thang co, with the characteristic aroma of horse meat and bones mixed with mountain spices, is always the center of attraction.

Next to it is a basket of golden men men (cooked corn flour), fragrant sticky buckwheat cakes made from purple flowers that bloom on the mountainside every autumn. All blend together in the spicy aroma of fermented corn wine - the wine that makes people laugh easier, talk more, and forget the cold. Small chairs surround the steaming pot of thang co, where people come closer together, share food and stories, creating a culinary picture full of community.

Độc đáo chợ lùi Sà Phìn giữa cao nguyên đá- Ảnh 4.

The food court is popular with many people.

PHOTO: DO TU

More importantly, if trading is the reason, then finding friends, meeting acquaintances, even dating is the secret purpose of many young people. For young men and women of the Mong ethnic group, the market is a big festival, an opportunity to express their feelings openly but still shyly.

We saw couples going to the market together, their clothes still smelling of new linen, exchanging shy smiles. In the bustling market space, they began their stories, their promises that would last for the next six days without the market. Sa Phin Market is the most natural love market of the rocky plateau.

Nowadays, Sa Phin market is not only a meeting place for the highlanders, but also a favorite stop for tourists. The locals here are also used to the lenses of tourists. When they know they are in the frame, they smile gently, naturally like this land.

From Sa Phin market, visitors can continue their journey to explore other heritage sites: visit the Vuong family mansion - the once majestic "Meo King's palace"; stop by Lao Xa village with its rammed earth houses and traditional silver carving village; or go to Dong Van ancient town, where time seems to stop amid the melodious sounds of Mong flutes.

At noon, when the sun has dried the morning dew, the market gradually closes. The baskets of goods are empty, the pots of thang co are empty, only the sound of footsteps mixed in the wind carrying new items, happy stories and energy for the upcoming work week remains.

In six days, the market will be held again - postponed by one day - but the human affection, color and cultural soul still linger on the rocky plateau. Because in Sa Phin, the market is not only a place for trading, but also a place to preserve the memories and breath of life of the people of the highlands of Tuyen Quang .

Source: https://thanhnien.vn/doc-dao-cho-lui-sa-phin-giua-cao-nguyen-da-185251113162632697.htm


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