The lingering taste of Tet (Vietnamese New Year) in a tray of Hue-style candied fruits.

In Hue's traditional houses during the days leading up to Tet (Lunar New Year), trays of candied fruits are not only for entertaining guests.

A batch of Hue-style candied ginger simmered in sugar over a wood fire. Photo: Dieu Xuan.

It is a place where memories, traditions, and culture quietly crystallize, preserved by the hands of grandmothers and mothers for generations.

For those who appreciate the refined and culturally rich cuisine of Hue , Tet jam has long been an indispensable part of the spring season. Hue jam comes in dozens of varieties, each with its own unique characteristics and flavors, but all share the commonality of being handmade by mothers and grandmothers.

In the past, Hue women were taught to cook and make jams and cakes from a very young age, considering it an integral part of their domestic skills. Over the years, this skill not only served the Tet (Lunar New Year) feast but also became a way to preserve and continue family traditions. It is from this tradition that Hue jams have developed their richness and unique characteristics, difficult to confuse with those from any other region.

Within this tradition of preservation, there are families where the tray of Tet sweets is not just a sweet treat for the Spring Festival, but also a memory passed down through generations. The family of culinary artist Do Thi Phuong Nhi maintains such a tradition!

Mother and daughter culinary artists Nguyen Thi Phien and Do Thi Phuong Nhi (left). Photo: Provided by the subjects.

Sweet memories

Born and raised in a family with a tradition of Hue's cuisine passed down from her grandmother to her mother, artisan Nguyen Thi Phien, culinary artist Do Thi Phuong Nhi was exposed to the finest culinary traditions right in her own kitchen from a young age.

Having dedicated over 25 years to culinary arts, artisan Do Thi Phuong Nhi (born in 1967, currently residing in Ho Chi Minh City) has made and continues to make significant contributions to preserving, teaching, and spreading the traditional culinary values ​​of Hue. For her, each dish is not just a flavor but also a cultural story, a memory, and a way of life for the people of Hue.

A long-time culinary instructor shared: “Hue's Tet jam is famous for its diverse varieties, distinctive flavors, and high quality. Tet jam is not only a delicious treat but also a part of Hue's culture and tradition. It symbolizes reunion, happiness, and good fortune in the new year.”

During Tet (Lunar New Year), the tray of candied fruits is not only a treat but also a way for the people of Hue to express their hospitality and family traditions. According to ancient customs in the former imperial capital, the kitchens of each royal residence or wealthy family often had their own unique candied fruits and cakes. Some types of candied fruits and cakes were even elaborately prepared to be offered to the king and royal family, presented to respected elders, or offered to temples in the capital.

Hue jams are renowned for their diversity, delicate flavors, and elaborate preparation. The main ingredients are sourced from nature: fruits, roots, flowers... often readily available in home gardens. Through the skillful hands of Hue women, these simple ingredients are transformed into jams with a harmonious blend of sweet, sour, and spicy flavors, both visually appealing and delicious.

First times are always unforgettable memories for everyone, and for artisan Phuong Nhi, the first batches of jam hold beautiful memories. Even though she had helped her family make many batches of jam before, it was only when she cooked it herself that she realized how much patience is needed to create a delicious and beautiful batch.

It's an incredibly elaborate process, starting with selecting ingredients that are both fresh and beautiful, followed by the preparation stage which must be done at the right time and in the right way, and the most difficult part is the finishing touch to the jam. Each step contains many subtle techniques that can only be fully understood by doing it yourself.

However, for her, "a good start leads to a good finish," and the preparation stage must be given the most attention. "Thorough preparation is essential for the jam to be delicious and beautiful," she expressed.

Hue-style lotus root jam. Photo: Provided by the subject.

Jam made from kumquats. Photo: Provided by the subject.

The heart of the jam maker

Hue's Tet jams impress with their rich variety and symbolic meaning, each carrying its own unique flavor and message. Papaya jam symbolizes abundance and prosperity throughout the year. Sweet potato jam, with its nutty, mildly sweet taste and high nutritional value, becomes more appealing and novel when processed into jam compared to its usual form.

Kumquat jam has a round, translucent shape, soaked in syrup, making it both visually appealing and full-bodied, symbolizing good fortune; it also helps relieve coughs and aids digestion.

Candied ginger is almost indispensable in the Hue Tet candy tray, with its harmonious warm and spicy flavor, perfect for enjoying with a hot cup of tea on a cold winter day to entertain guests.

The elaborate traditional Tet candy tray also includes candied winter melon, candied lotus seeds, candied coconut, candied pineapple, sweet and sour candied tamarind, candied carrots... All of these create a picture of Hue cuisine that is both refined and rich in traditional cultural identity on the guest table.

Speaking of Hue's Tet jam, artisan Phuong Nhi also shared a little-known story about pickled eggplant shaped like chrysanthemums. Phuong Nhi's grandmother recounted that Princess Dong Ao – the daughter of a Nguyen Dynasty prince – once gifted the family exquisite and beautiful chrysanthemums made from pickled eggplant. Her grandmother, admiring her beauty, tried to learn how to make them and succeeded, but only a few times.

"In my grandmother's opinion, jam should not only be beautiful but also delicious and nutritious. Although pickled eggplant jam has an elaborate shape, showing patience and skill, its nutritional value is not high; it's mainly for visual enjoyment. Even I don't know the recipe for that pickled eggplant jam," she said.

Amidst the modern pace of life, where mass-produced jams are increasingly popular, traditional Hue Tet jam trays still hold a special place. They embody the sweetness of time, patience, skillful hands, and the heartfelt dedication of the jam makers.

Thanks to dedicated artisans like Ms. Do Thi Phuong Nhi, Hue's Tet jam is not only preserved but also continues to spread. Every spring, the traditional jam tray is placed next to a pot of hot tea, to offer to guests, reminding them of family traditions, and the quiet specialties of the ancient capital extend the lingering taste of Tet.

Source: https://laodong.vn/du-lich/am-thuc/du-vi-tet-xua-trong-khay-mut-hue-1652203.html