These hands "weave" the flavors of Tet.

Banh chung (Vietnamese sticky rice cake) is one of the indispensable dishes during the traditional Lunar New Year of the Vietnamese people. Whether square or curved, all are made with the dedication of artisans who have been involved in the craft for more than half their lives. It is the story of hands silently preserving the traditional flavors of the nation amidst the hurried flow of time.

In a small kitchen in Hamlet 10, Muong Lai Commune, Lao Cai Province, Ms. Nghiem Thi Luyen has been dedicated to making "gù" sticky rice cakes for over 20 years – a distinctive cultural feature of the Tay ethnic group. Unlike square sticky rice cakes, "gù" sticky rice cakes have an elongated shape, with a raised middle section symbolizing a woman carrying a basket on her back while working in the fields.

To make a delicious and visually appealing rice cake, Ms. Luyen meticulously selects every detail, from the leaves to the rice and meat. According to Ms. Luyen, the leaves used to wrap the humpback rice cake must be young and tender, because if they are old, the cake will be discolored, while if they are too young, the cake will be mushy. The rice used must also be fragrant glutinous rice with round, even grains; the mung beans must be thoroughly cleaned of their husks; and the pork must be fresh pork belly with both lean and fat so that when the cake is cooked, the fat seeps into the glutinous rice, creating a rich and savory flavor. The most difficult part of wrapping the humpback rice cake is the technique of bending the leaf veins and shaping it. Without a mold, everything relies on the feel of the hands. If the hands aren't steady, the cake will be loose, and water will seep in, ruining the taste. If it's too tightly packed, the rice grains won't expand evenly.

Ms. Nghiem Thi Luyen (in the pink shirt) shares about the traditional craft of making humpback sticky rice cakes (banh chung gu) among the Tay ethnic minority people in Muong Lai commune.

For Ms. Luyen, making glutinous rice cakes (banh chung gu) provides extra income for her family during Tet (Lunar New Year), and is also a source of pride in her heritage and a cultural tradition of her ethnic group. Every Tet, she receives many orders from within and outside the province, and she is happy that the flavors of her hometown, Muong Lai, are well-received by everyone.

Ms. Luyen confided: "This job is very hard; staying up all night tending the fire is commonplace. But when I think about my cakes appearing on the ancestral altars of every household, I feel that all my efforts are truly meaningful. This is how we preserve the essence of the Tay people through each Tet season."

The humpback rice cakes of the Tay people.

In Luc Yen commune, Mr. Do Van Tien is the one keeping the flame alive for the traditional square banh chung (Vietnamese sticky rice cake). With over 30 years of experience, Mr. Tien is considered a renowned "artisan" in the region. His family's kitchen is always bustling with activity, the sounds of splitting bamboo strips and washing leaves creating a lively atmosphere. During Tet (Vietnamese New Year), orders are numerous, and Mr. Tien has to mobilize his brothers and relatives to wrap and cook the cakes all night long to meet customer demand.

In the days leading up to Tet (Lunar New Year), Mr. Do Van Tien (with gray hair) mobilizes his relatives to help with the work in order to deliver goods to customers on time.

Unlike the soft texture of the humpback rice cake, the square rice cake requires a square, sharp, and uniform shape. Even though it's wrapped entirely by hand without using a mold, all 10 cakes are identical. Mr. Tien said: "For over 30 years, I've kept my family's traditional recipe for wrapping the rice cakes. To keep the cakes naturally green, we use young, fresh wild dong leaves, washing and drying each leaf. The most important step is still the boiling process. The fire must be even, the water must always cover the cakes, and the boiling time must be sufficient, from 10 to 12 hours, so that the cakes are firm, can be stored for a long time without becoming hard."

For Mr. Tien, making banh chung (Vietnamese rice cakes) is not simply a way to make a living. At over sixty years old, his hands calloused from the elements, he still diligently works at his job. He shared: "This profession requires dedication and self-respect; you have to take care of everything from the rice grains to when it's cooked over the fire. I want to pass this on to my children and grandchildren so that no matter how modern society becomes, the traditional flavor of banh chung will not fade away."

Square-shaped sticky rice cake (Bánh chưng vuông) - an indispensable dish during the Vietnamese Lunar New Year.

The difference in shape between the humpback banh chung of the Tay people and the square banh chung of the Vietnamese people does not change the core value and traditional flavor of this dish. It is a symbol of gratitude to ancestors, the culmination of the earth, sky, and human labor. People like Ms. Luyen and Mr. Tien are the ones who "keep the flame alive," weaving the flavor of Tet with dedication and love for their homeland.

With each passing Tet season, those hands become more calloused, but their passion for the craft remains undiminished. Amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life, traditional values ​​are being preserved, creating a complete and authentic Tet celebration.

Source: https://baolaocai.vn/nhung-doi-ban-tay-det-nen-huong-vi-tet-post893815.html