I've been to Con Co Island many times, but recently, a group of friends, including veterans and businessmen from Tuyen Quang, invited me, and I immediately agreed to go. Actually, I hadn't visited the island in 10 years, and in August 2024, Con Co Island District will celebrate its 20th anniversary. Now, sitting on the Chín Nghĩa Quang Tri ship, sailing out to sea, I feel a sense of exhilaration leaving the city behind, breathing in the salty sea air. Located across the 17th parallel, Con Co is not only a strategic outpost protecting national sovereignty but also one of the rare and beautiful islands of Central Vietnam. Con Co was very peaceful on a normal day when we visited.
The number of tourists visiting Con Co Island is increasing day by day - Photo: PM
On previous trips to the island, I traveled on Border Guard boats, but now I have the opportunity to ride on a tourist boat. One of the owners of this boat is Tran Cong Nam, who, with the dedication of a son of Vinh Linh, Quang Tri , pooled capital with friends to buy the Chin Nghia boat to serve tourists.
The ship belongs to Chín Nghĩa Quảng Trị Co., Ltd., first established in May 2018, a joint venture with Chín Nghĩa Quảng Ngãi Co., Ltd. The ship is constructed of steel, equipped with maritime equipment that fully meets the standards for passenger transport by sea, with a total main engine power of 820 horsepower, a maximum speed of 16 knots, and a capacity of 156 passengers. With calm seas, our journey to the island by Chín Nghĩa took just over an hour.
Knowing I was a journalist, Nam confided in me about the difficulties in his business, explaining that the boats could only operate for one season, and had to stay ashore during the rainy and stormy season; or that the limited accommodation on the island meant fewer tourists visited, and the boats rarely had enough passengers...
But that's a story for later. For now, on the way to the island, as the ship sped through the waves, I called a friend on the island and learned that he was on a business trip in Ho Chi Minh City. Then, unexpectedly, I received another call from a younger brother. The voice on the other end said, "This is Huu Dien, brother. I just finished my service after more than 20 years in the border guard. Let's meet soon." I thought to myself, we have unforgettable memories from 20 years ago.
Surprisingly, during that trip to the island, the captain of the Quang Tri Border Guard patrol boat was a former reporter for the Vietnam News Agency. On that trip to Con Co Island, Huu Dien was part of the provincial press delegation. Upon boarding the boat, driven by his passion for the profession from his time in the military, Dien asked the crew if he could try steering the boat. Seeing Dien's skillful maneuvers and the boat moving smoothly according to the plank, everyone was amazed. It turned out that during his time in the North, Dien had learned to steer boats. After that trip, missing his profession, Dien requested to return to military service.
Lieutenant Colonel Tran Dinh Dung, then Commander of the Quang Tri Border Guard (later Major General, Deputy Commander of the Border Guard), who witnessed Dien's experience driving the ship, agreed to accept him. That's just a brief summary; there were other procedures involved, but in the end, Huu Dien temporarily put aside his studies and joined the ship sailing on the waves. Dien's motivation for returning to the arduous and difficult job of driving a ship was simply his love for the sea and islands of his homeland.
Unlike previous trips to the island where I had to transfer to a small boat during rough seas, this time the ship sailed smoothly into the harbor and dock. Now the dock is bustling with visitors taking photos at the welcome gate to the island district. I remember that on previous trips, everyone's main concern was the availability of drinking water. Thanks to the attention of the Ministry of National Defense and the province, the district has conducted exploratory drilling and found a source of fresh water.
Moreover, the district also has a very large freshwater collection reservoir from the rainy season, which can store water for the entire dry season. With freshwater, life on the island has changed dramatically. Stories of the dry season when water was scarce, soldiers on Con Co Island struggling to stay dry and then wiping themselves with towels like they were bathing in the wind; stories of the carefully locked water taps and the ration of water can by can during the hot season are now just memories of a difficult time gone by.
I remember that my visit to the island coincided with the inauguration of the harbor in October 1998. Following that, the government invested 32.5 billion VND in building a fishing port, large enough to accommodate hundreds of fishing boats from coastal provinces returning from fishing trips.
Then, in early 1999, 36 families began settling on the island. By 2000, children were born and registered as the first citizens of Con Co Island District. More than 20 years have passed since then, and these first citizens of the island have grown up, preparing to follow in their parents' footsteps and contribute to building their homeland.
Twenty years is just the beginning of a person's life. For Con Co Island District, this is a promising start for a burgeoning frontier island, becoming a tourism highlight in the Cua Viet - Cua Tung - Con Co Island tourism development triangle.
The leaders of the island district want to develop the island into a tourist and service destination, but they are also very cautious, as advised by Cuban planning experts who surveyed the island more than 20 years ago. They emphasized that development must strictly adhere to the impact on the island's natural conditions, meaning that the forest and marine spaces must be preserved, not only on the island but also within the vast area of the Con Co Island Nature Reserve; this includes preserving the rich coral reefs, protecting rare marine species, protecting the primary forest, and protecting the rare rock crab species that has been immortalized in poetry...
That day, the Secretary and Chairman of the People's Committee of Con Co Island District, Vo Van Cuong, told us that the district's current infrastructure is thanks to the many resources invested in Con Co. He said the district will continue to receive attention from the Party, the State, the provincial Party committee and government, and the entire country, because building Con Co Island into a strong and prosperous island, worthy of its status as a frontier island, is the responsibility and affection of the whole nation working together so that one day the island will be strong and wealthy.
The good news is that in recent years, tours to Con Co Island have become available. Since the tours began, many domestic tourists have joined due to the island's appeal, a place that during the war was known as the "unsinkable battleship."
Located more than 30 kilometers from Cua Viet, despite limited infrastructure, amenities, and accommodation, this pristine green gem on the East Sea still attracts tourists from all over. When we arrived on the island, the midday weather was hot and sunny, but the members of the veteran and business delegation from Tuyen Quang province were still very eager to take a tour around the island.
We had to wait until evening, when the sun was less intense and the strong sea breeze cooled the air, before taking a tram ride around and then walking up to the Memorial on Hill 37 (also known as Hanoi Hill), a place honoring and commemorating the heroic martyrs who sacrificed their lives to protect the islands and seas during the war. This is also where the hero Thai Van A and his comrades bravely fought to defend the island in a fierce battle against the enemy.
The memorial, currently under renovation, covers an area of 1,000 square meters and stands 28.5 meters tall. It features a plaque listing 104 fallen soldiers and two artistic bas-reliefs depicting the battles fought to defend and supply the island. Historically, 104 soldiers and militiamen sacrificed their lives for the island's survival. Most of their remains lie at sea, with only a few graves relocated to the mainland after national reunification. In the past, due to difficult travel conditions between the island and the mainland, the families of the fallen soldiers moved their loved ones to the mainland for easier access for worship and remembrance.
Not far from the memorial is a very beautiful beach called Ben Nghe, where the first rays of sunlight hit the island. Further towards the center is Ben Tranh, a public swimming area. From here, electric trams circle the island, allowing visitors to stop and take photos with two ancient banyan trees; visit the Military Medical Bunker; and explore the Con Co primary forest trail. Because it was formed by volcanic eruptions, the island has geological and ecological value, its landscape resembling a natural "museum" with unique basalt rock formations along the coast, and pristine small beaches formed from coral fragments, shells, scallops, sand, etc.
Notably, the island also houses the Con Co Island Traditional House, which preserves artifacts that recreate the glorious history of the army and people of the island district.
With investment in infrastructure, the development of tourism tours and routes, and the promotion of local strengths, Con Co Island is expected to develop and attract a large number of domestic and international tourists.
Regarding the difficulties that Tran Cong Nam shared with me on the Chin Nghia ship, I think Chin Nghia Quang Tri Co., Ltd. should sit down and discuss with the leaders of the island district to improve coordination in welcoming tourists. Because when businesses develop, the island district develops, and when the island district develops, businesses will also develop; it's a win-win situation.
A highlight of the tour around Con Co Island is the stop at the Lighthouse Station. Here, visitors have the opportunity to conquer 100 steps to the top of the lighthouse, which is 78.2 meters high from sea level and has been in operation since the end of 2006. It is considered a "jewel" in the blue sea, helping to signal and locate Con Co Island, supporting ships in navigating more easily in the waters of Quang Tri province.
From here, you can get a panoramic view of Con Co Island. Unlike other rocky islands, Con Co Island has fertile basalt soil, and from above, you can see the entire island with its vast expanse of green. Besides the native trees of the island such as the Barringtonia acutangula and the most abundant are the gnarled-trunked Barringtonia trees reaching out to the sea, the island also has dozens of hectares of yellow-flowered Melaleuca and black acacia trees planted by the soldiers.
Standing atop the lighthouse, looking out in all directions, I suddenly remembered the legend of Con Co Island and Loi Ren Cave. The story goes that long ago, there was a very strong man named Tho Lo. His job was to dig earth to build mountains. Once, he was carrying a load of earth that was too heavy; the carrying pole broke, and the two baskets of earth flew in opposite directions. One basket flew towards the mountain, becoming Loi Ren Cave, and the other towards the sea, becoming Con Co Island.
That's how people in the past interpreted place names and topography, but back then, Professor Tran Quoc Vuong, through archaeological artifacts found on the island, confirmed that in the past, Con Co was a strip of land connected to the mainland, gradually separating over many ages due to sea erosion and weathering to form an island.
This explanation seems convincing because the land and vegetation on the island are very similar to those on the mainland. With an area of approximately 2.3 km² , of which more than 70% is primary forest, Con Co Island is one of the few places in Vietnam that still has a three-tiered tropical forest ecosystem preserved almost intact.
Therefore, one of the unmissable experiences when visiting Con Co Island is exploring the primeval forest, enjoying the fresh air, and discovering the rich flora and fauna on the island. Con Co Island was formed by volcanic eruptions, bringing historical geological and ecological values, creating a colorful natural "museum" for this land.
But that's a matter for archaeologists and botanists; the history of the heroic deeds of our Army and People on this island must be told from August 8, 1959, when the first unit of the Vietnam People's Army - Regiment 270, commanded by Lieutenant Duong Duc Thien - set foot on Con Co Island, planting the red flag with a yellow star to affirm the sacred sovereignty of the Fatherland.
Having endured fierce wars to defend the island, Con Co has been twice awarded the title of Heroic Island by the State. Visiting the island today, one can still find names that once resonated, such as the beaches of Hi-ron, Hanoi, Ha Dong, Ha Nam, Da Den, Hai Phong high point, Trieu Hai outpost... The red soil here seems to still be steeped in the blood and bones of soldiers and civilians who sacrificed themselves to protect the island, so that today Con Co stands proudly amidst the waves and winds of the open sea.
That evening, after sunset, we had a wonderful time meeting and socializing with the leaders of Con Co Island district, enjoying the island's signature cuisine, such as king oysters, conch, and seaweed... all meticulously prepared. The taste was unforgettable. The night by the sea was cool and breezy.
Out at sea, the electric lights of the fishing boats blazed brightly, like a cityscape at night on the ocean. By the sea, everyone was filled with emotion, their singing blending with the resounding sound of the waves.
Unexpectedly, Lieutenant Colonel Nguyen Dinh Cuong, Commander of the Con Co Border Guard Post, sang the song "Will You Come Back to Quang Tri with Me?" (music by Nguyen Chi Quyet) for our group, a truly heartfelt performance. Cuong is a native of Hanoi who came here to work and has become attached to this frontier island, as if it were a destiny in his military career. He said that he loves the sea and islands very much and is bringing his two children here to visit and stay during the summer to experience life on this remote island.
Before leaving Con Co Island to return to the mainland, we were taken by the Secretary and Chairman of the People's Committee of the island district, Vo Van Cuong, to visit and offer incense at the Ho Chi Minh Memorial Temple on the island. Inside the temple, the central hall is dedicated to President Ho Chi Minh, the right-hand hall to the heroic martyrs, and the left-hand hall to those who lost their lives at sea while trying to make a living.
We were also deeply honored and proud to attend the flag-raising ceremony with the leaders, military, and people of Con Co Island District. When the national anthem played, everyone sang along to its majestic melody. Against the blue sky, the red flag with a yellow star fluttered in the wind. Everyone felt a sense of sacredness in this moment before the vast sea and sky of our homeland. Now, our homeland is in the heart of each and every one of us.
On the way back to the mainland, my friend, veteran Tran Hong Luyen, former Standing Deputy Secretary of the Yen Son District Party Committee, Tuyen Quang province, after contacting and exchanging information with the leaders of Tuyen Quang province, informed me of some good news.
Through the phone, I immediately called the Secretary and Chairman of the People's Committee of Con Co Island District, Vo Van Cuong, to inform him that Tuyen Quang province would soon send a delegation to visit Con Co Island District and would plant a banyan tree, taken from the historical banyan tree of Tan Trao, the "capital of the resistance," in front of the temple dedicated to President Ho Chi Minh on the island. Secretary Vo Van Cuong expressed his great joy, as this would be very meaningful, because during the resistance war, President Ho Chi Minh had twice sent letters praising the heroic army and people of Con Co Island.
Soon, when the banyan tree from Tan Trao is planted here, its roots will sink deep into the island's soil, its branches will reach high and spread its shade, becoming a magnificent historical symbol of the heroic spirit and fighting will of our army and people during the resistance war, and now as they are determined to build a prosperous and strong country and homeland.
Con Co Island District will surely become prosperous and strong thanks to the sea!
Minh Tu
Source: https://baoquangtri.vn/binh-yen-con-co-187036.htm
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