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There is a Western-style street in Vinh City.

Việt NamViệt Nam01/10/2023

The "night owl" alley

Located right in the city center, next to the pedestrian street, and utilizing the space above the drainage ditch, Alley 114 Le Hong Phong (Vinh City) boasts a fairly wide road. Furthermore, for safety reasons, the authorities prohibit large vehicles from entering the alley. The area's quietness and ample parking space become a lucrative advantage in today's crowded urban environment. These reasons make Alley 114 an ideal choice for savvy business people.

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Alley 114 Le Hong Phong (Vinh City) has quite a few cafes with open spaces. Photo: Diep Thanh

Over the past four years, the alley has developed into a service complex for young people, with both sides lined with numerous shops and businesses such as cafes, bars, pubs, fashion boutiques , beauty salons, and gaming centers.

Before becoming "famous" for the cluster of shops further inside, Alley 114 was already renowned for its "sewer yogurt" shop right at the entrance. I don't remember exactly when the "sewer yogurt" shop opened, but I know that more than 20 years ago, we students always favored this yogurt shop as our hangout spot because it was delicious, cheap, and the owners were always cheerful.

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With their rustic yet sophisticated decor, the cafes in alley 114 Le Hong Phong are very popular with young people. Photo: Diep Thanh

During the day, Alley 114 isn't much different from other alleys. Perhaps the only difference is the constant stream of motorbikes belonging to young people enjoying coffee, neatly parked in the middle of the street, next to the drainage ditch. The owner of Cafe May, born in 1996, at the beginning of the alley, explained: “Many young people like this alley because the cafes have friendly designs, beautiful and fresh spaces, and delicious and diverse drinks. As the number of customers for food and beverage services here increases, people are thinking about building other business complexes to capitalize on the trend. Now, you can combine a haircut, coffee, and clothing shopping in just one visit to the alley…”

The most striking common feature of the cafes in this alley is their open-plan design and long opening hours. Without air conditioning or elaborate construction, these cafes have a simple, cozy design with low chairs, dense foliage, and rustic signs. Furthermore, while typical cafes open from 7-8 AM to 9-10 PM, the cafes in Alley 114 Le Hong Phong are open from 6-7 AM until 2-3 AM the following morning. Because of this characteristic, some young people call it the "night owl" alley.

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Even after 10 PM, the shops and restaurants in alley 114 Le Hong Phong were still bustling with customers, and motorbikes were neatly lined up from one end of the alley to the other. Photo: Diep Thanh

While during the day, the dominant color of the shops and stalls in Alley 114 is the green of the trees, at night, the main color becomes the yellow of the walls and the light emanating from the cafes, restaurants, and pubs.

According to Nguyen Thi Mai Anh, a familiar face in the "night owl" alley, the regular customers of the alley's cafes and pubs are mainly young people, including students and working professionals. Many of them are freelancers or work remotely, giving them control over their time.

Besides that, the alley also attracts a large number of Western customers, mainly English teachers from language centers. Mai Anh said: "One special thing is that most of the customers at these cafes know each other. This familiarity stems from the fact that they meet regularly at a fixed time. Moreover, these young people are very friendly."

Alley 114 Le Hong Phong is usually bustling and lively from 8 PM onwards. Many shops and restaurants stay open to serve customers until 2-3 AM. (Clip: Diep Thanh)

When East and West share one "home"

Typically, in large cities, when the number of foreigners living and working there is sufficient, meeting and entertainment spots for this group of expats will emerge. Just as Ho Chi Minh City has Bui Vien Street and Hanoi has Ta Hien Street, Vinh has Alley 114 Le Hong Phong.

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Western tourists socialize and chat in front of a pub in alley 114 Le Hong Phong. Photo: CSCC

Before the pubs and bars opened in Alley 114 Le Hong Phong, Western tourists in Vinh often frequented a number of pubs scattered along Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Van Cu streets. Pubs are known as places that sell alcoholic beverages, popular in some European and Australian countries. Unlike the hustle and bustle of a drinking establishment, the excitement of a club, or the sophistication of a bar, pubs offer a fun, intimate, and simple atmosphere, suitable for a wide range of people.

Among the pubs in Vinh, Hometown is particularly popular with foreigners. Before 10 PM, the pub's patrons are mostly Vietnamese, arriving with friends, sitting scattered around small tables, sipping drinks, listening to music, and chatting. The sound and lighting are just right to draw customers into the atmosphere without sacrificing privacy. The walls are adorned with spontaneous, nostalgic Western-style paintings. Behind the bar are shelves of beer and liquor, offering a variety of options for cocktails.

The highlight of Hometown pub is the model sailboat mounted on the back wall, which is very cinematic and enchanting. Without being ostentatious, the tasteful, sophisticated decor and the meaningful meaning of the word "hometown" have helped this pub score points with international visitors.

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To bring people together, pubs often host small, intimate music events. Photo: CSCC

After 11 PM, a group of customers, both Western and Vietnamese, arrived at the bar from various parts of the city. It seemed everyone knew each other; they greeted each other with handshakes, shoulder touches, hugs, kisses, and perhaps even an impromptu dance to the music playing… Even though it was their first time meeting me and they didn't know who I was, they still smiled and welcomed me as if I were in their “home.”

These foreign nationals came from many countries and continents, so their appearances were quite diverse. After exchanging greetings, they ordered drinks and then split into small groups to chat amongst themselves. At the bar, two young bartenders chatted with the guests while skillfully mixing eye-catching martinis and cocktails, or pouring simple drinks like whiskey and tequila.

“They’re not just bartenders; they’re also willing to listen to customers’ stories and confidences to offer them a drink that perfectly matches their mood. That’s why we say bartenders are the soul of the bar. Another special thing about the bar is that everyone knows each other; they take turns chatting with each other like family,” said Vo Manh Tuan, owner of Hometown pub.

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For many Western tourists, Alley 114 Le Hong Phong has become a familiar meeting place. Photo: Diep Thanh

Huynh Thanh Nhat, an English teacher from Ho Chi Minh City, shared: “On special occasions like Christmas or the World Cup, the atmosphere in pubs is incredibly lively. The place can be so crowded that there are no empty seats, and you have to stand outside. Regardless of whether you're a foreigner or a local, a friend or a stranger, people make friends, wish each other well, sing along with the band, and sway to the DJ's music – it's really fun.” According to Nhat, in the autumn, when the weather is cool, many young people prefer the intimate and cozy atmosphere of pubs…

A little strange, a little familiar, a little Western, a little Vietnamese – the pubs in the small alleys of the city center are a unique blend in the increasingly diverse cultural landscape of Vinh City.


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