President Vo Van Thuong; former President Nguyen Minh Triet; Minister of Culture, Sports and Tourism Nguyen Van Hung and other delegates visited Phu Hai historical site within the Con Dao Prison National Special Historical Site (July 2023).
On this strategically important island in the southeastern part of our homeland, where cultural relics from the early days of settlement are preserved, and where 113 years of hellish darkness have been endured, the indomitable spirit and unwavering courage of the Vietnamese people, forged over centuries, have forged a sacred oath to the Fatherland. Under any circumstances, tens of thousands of loyal patriots and soldiers never faltered, ensuring that Con Dao remains a great revolutionary school in the middle of the ocean.
Sedimentary deposits on remote islands
The Đại Nam nhất thống chí (Comprehensive Gazetteer of Đại Nam) states: Côn Lôn is one of our country's frontier archipelagos, "majestically standing guard in the East Sea." Historical records refer to the largest island in the archipelago as Côn Lôn Island, or simply Côn Đảo. The southeastern islands of our homeland have, since ancient times, borne the footprints of ancient Vietnamese people, like the legendary Mai An Tiêm who pioneered the settlement of the deserted islands.
That legend, battered by countless waves for centuries, has become an anchor connecting the past and present, forging unwavering resilience. Even in the darkest nights, when invaders inflicted a "hell on earth" on the island, Con Dao did not retreat, with the sacred oath to the Fatherland placed above all else. Ancient Vietnamese people advanced towards the sea, and in those heroic and tragic years, tens of thousands of steadfast soldiers fulfilled their oath to the Fatherland, ready to dedicate themselves and sacrifice to defend the sovereignty of their homeland's islands and seas.
Deputy Director of the Con Dao National Monument Conservation Center, Le Thi Hang, shared that the archaeological evidence, rich in history and culture, in Con Dao is a powerful historical message affirming Vietnam's territorial and maritime sovereignty in the southeastern sea and islands of the country. Archaeological research shows that the first inhabitants of Con Dao date back 3000-2500 years. The most recent inhabitants left traces in the villages of An Hai, An Hoi, Co Ong, and Hon Cau, and their descendants, who settled in Con Dao during the time of Lord Nguyen Anh, more than 200 years ago, continue to this day. “The maritime culture of this remote island region has been quite clearly expressed over the centuries. Along with folk cultural values such as festivals and beliefs, the most special cultural feature of Con Dao to this day is its spiritual culture, its culture of origin, and its culture of gratitude. In 1861, the French occupied Con Dao, brought the people back to the mainland, and established a prison in 1862. From then on, Con Dao was plunged into a long night of ‘hell on earth’ for 113 years (1862-1975)…,” Ms. Hang said.
For 113 dark years, this "hell on earth" inflicted deep wounds and imprinted painful memories in the minds of thousands of soldiers and political prisoners. The East Sea was turbulent, and a resilient Con Dao Island forged a great revolutionary school amidst the sea and sky of the Fatherland. In his speech during his visit to Con Dao on August 27, 1976, General Secretary Le Duan emphasized: "Con Dao is a heroic island, Con Dao is a great historical site. Con Dao is a great school for future generations…" In the preface to the book "History of Con Dao Prison," Chairman of the Council of Ministers Pham Van Dong wrote: "The indomitable, courageous, and intelligent struggle of the Con Dao soldiers is a glorious page of revolutionary history, continued and multiplied in the brilliant revolutionary heroism of our people through the resistance against the French and the Americans." The noble sacrifices of countless martyrs in that struggle have continued to bear fruit in the victories and achievements of the Vietnamese nation…
...Con Dao prison was the largest and most brutal prison, known as "hell on earth," far from the mainland, a place where prisoners were seemingly separated from the Party and the people, unable to withstand the increasingly sophisticated and brutal terrorist apparatus. But these wicked tactics of the colonialists and imperialists ultimately did not serve them, but rather the revolution. Con Dao was transformed by the communists into a battlefield and a revolutionary school, truly becoming a nursery for the Vietnamese revolution.
The Monument to the Nation's Heroes in the center of Hang Duong Cemetery. Photo: Archival.
An epic of the sea
That day, we followed former political prisoners to Hang Duong Cemetery. In July, Con Dao was engulfed in torrential rains, strong winds, and streams of people, regardless of the weather, flocking to pay their respects at the "sacred altar of the Fatherland."
“The weather is nothing compared to the harsh years we endured,” said Chu Cap, a former political prisoner of Con Dao from 1971-1974, his voice choked with emotion as he walked through Hang Duong. Returning to Con Dao for the third time since the prisoner exchange in March 1974, each time, this sacred land holds unforgettable memories for Mr. Cap and his comrades. As the rain subsided, the wind whistled through Hang Duong, and whispering songs drifted from the sea. Former political prisoner Nguyen Thi Ni stood silently beside the rows of graves, calling out the names of her comrades: “Sister Huong, Sister Thanh, Sister Cuc, Sister Xuan…,” the steadfast women who sacrificed themselves for the Fatherland and perished in the vast ocean of Con Dao. At 84, Mrs. Nguyen Thi Ni is always remembered by the people of Con Dao as a living history, a keeper of memories of the heroic island during those turbulent years in the East Sea. Her steps were slow, but every few days she would return to Hang Duong. “We shared a mat, sipped water, and endured relentless beatings together. Many of us had husbands, children, or lovers who never made it back…,” Mrs. Ni choked up. Those prison beatings also robbed her of her ability to become a mother. However, the former female prisoner told herself that those losses were nothing compared to the blood and bones of her comrades who had been lost to the waves of the ocean.
Former female prisoner Nguyen Thi Ni (third from the left, top row) with other veterans at Hang Duong Cemetery, July 2023.
“The day I returned and decided to dedicate my life to Con Dao, a desolate island, was overgrown with grass, trees, and clouds hanging overhead. It was no longer a ‘hell on earth,’ but to achieve a life that is changing day by day on this pearl island, future generations must understand that it is built on the blood and bones of our ancestors, of tens of thousands of heroic martyrs…,” Mrs. Ni said, her voice trembling. Ms. Le Thi Hang, Deputy Director of the Con Dao National Relic Conservation Center, shared that Con Dao Prison is the largest and oldest prison in the country, a highlight in the revolutionary history, preserving unforgettable memories of the nation. The prison cells, tiger cages, cattle pens, rice mills, Dam Wharf, Cau Tau Bridge, Phu Hai, Phu Son, Phu Tuong, Phu Binh camps, the Governor's House, Hang Duong Cemetery… are powerful testaments, strongly denouncing the cruel and brutal regime of imperialism and colonialism against the patriotic movement of the Vietnamese people.
The day I returned and decided to dedicate my life to Con Dao, a desolate island with only grass, trees, and clouds hanging overhead. It was no longer a "hell on earth," but to achieve a life that is changing day by day on this pearl island, future generations must understand that it is built on the blood and sacrifices of their ancestors, of tens of thousands of heroic martyrs… (Former female political prisoner Nguyen Thi Ni) |
That memory has become an immortal epic, connecting from the deep roots of ancient cultural values on this prison island. Over the years, today's generation from all over the country has always wished to visit this historical land to express their gratitude and respect to their ancestors. Among the historical sites, Hang Duong Cemetery is deeply ingrained in the consciousness of people nationwide, associated with the names of revolutionary fighters such as the late General Secretary Le Hong Phong, the patriot Nguyen An Ninh, and the heroine Vo Thi Sau… “When coming to Con Dao, people always remember to visit Hang Duong Cemetery and light incense to commemorate the revolutionary fighters, and visit the tomb of the heroine Vo Thi Sau, an immortal symbol of patriotism. In the middle of the ocean, the image of this heroine has become a spiritual landmark, a solid spiritual anchor for every citizen to love and stay on the island even more,” shared Ms. Le Thi Hang.
Listening to the traditional Vietnamese folk song on the former prison island.
The road leading to Residential Area No. 2 in Con Dao District resonates with the melodious sounds of traditional Vietnamese folk music. As a key figure in building this movement, the head of Residential Area No. 2, Nguyen Van Tuan, is also a renowned performer of traditional Vietnamese folk music. Having lived and been connected to Con Dao for over half a century, Mr. Tuan has witnessed firsthand the island's transformation from a "hell on earth" to a jewel island in the vast East Sea.
“I followed my father to Con Dao in 1968 and have stayed there ever since. After more than half a century, I still haven't forgotten the scene of Con Dao in the early days – quiet, wild, without electricity, roads, schools, or any medical facilities. All around me was the vast ocean, clouds, mountains, grass, and trees, and most importantly, the cultural and spiritual life was incredibly sparse,” Mr. Tuan recounted, his eyes distant. Suddenly, he began singing a traditional Vietnamese folk song. Amidst the vast expanse of water, the melodies of the countryside resonated sweetly and enchantingly. Having a passion for the arts, Mr. Tuan was completely captivated the first time he heard traditional folk music on the island. The man, with his weathered appearance, confided that he had only known about the Phi Yen Commemoration Ceremony on the island before. “Every year, we look forward to the 18th of October in the lunar calendar, the day when the people on the island hold a solemn memorial ceremony to commemorate the Goddess. This traditional festival is a unique cultural and spiritual value associated with the spiritual life of Con Dao. Later, as the cultural and spiritual life developed more, and many large and small festivals and stages were built on the island, the unchanging spiritual values of the Goddess's memorial ceremony in the cultural and spiritual life of the people of Con Dao were still preserved intact…,” Mr. Tuan confided.
The center of Con Dao island district is becoming increasingly green, clean, and beautiful.
Hoang Thi Lien, Secretary of the Party Branch of Residential Area No. 2, shared that the convergence of cultural values from many regions is harmonizing and connecting with the millennia-old cultural undercurrent in the open sea, along with the heroic epic of the revolution, to form new cultural values on this strategically important island in the Southeast of the Fatherland. “Through the activities of the Party Branch of Residential Area No. 2, each Party member always focuses on propaganda and mobilization of people to preserve cultural values and identities associated with protecting the sovereignty of the homeland's sea and islands. Cultural values are invisible yet eternal milestones from which each citizen can anchor, raising their awareness and responsibility amidst the vast ocean of the country…,” Secretary Hoang Thi Lien shared.
To achieve the vibrant life we see today, many hearts have volunteered to come to this island once known as "hell on earth." Truong Van Ut, a young intellectual who volunteered to build Con Dao, has dedicated nearly 30 years of his life to preserving the cultural and spiritual values of this frontier island. "What will I do for Con Dao?" This question, posed from the very first days he set foot on this sacred land, spurred the passionate heart of the young man. With the knowledge he gained at the Ho Chi Minh City University of Culture, Ut observed and devised ways to improve the island's spiritual life. Con Dao established its first drama class, followed by classes in traditional Vietnamese folk singing and music... Gradually, the melodious sounds of traditional folk singing and music from the Mekong Delta resonated more and more throughout Con Dao.
Having served twenty years on the strategically important island in the southeastern part of the country, Commander Le Duc Dung of the Con Dao Border Guard Post acknowledges that this island is a great bond and a source of love in his life. Playing the role of a "green bulwark" in this remote island, the Con Dao Border Guard Post has been a core force in managing and protecting the maritime border, maintaining political security, order, and social safety in the Con Dao maritime border area, while also working alongside the government and people in implementing socio-economic development tasks. Commander Dung shared that the image of soldiers in green uniforms has become familiar to the people of Con Dao, becoming a solid support for fishermen venturing out to sea and protecting sovereignty in this strategically important island region. "The Con Dao Border Guard Post places special emphasis on the task of disseminating information and raising public awareness about protecting maritime sovereignty, driven by responsibility and love for the homeland...", Commander Le Duc Dung stated.
With a mindset focused on preserving and promoting the cultural values of the islands to create living landmarks in remote areas, Captain Mai Viet Cong, the young Party Secretary and Political Officer of Radar Station 590 ( thuộc Regiment 251, Region 2 of the Navy), shared that in recent years, in addition to fulfilling assigned tasks, Radar Station 590 has focused on organizing many cultural and artistic activities, linking them with propaganda content to raise awareness among soldiers and the people about protecting national sovereignty and borders at sea. “As young people honored to work and contribute on the frontline islands of the Fatherland, we are always aware of the role and significance of spiritual and cultural values in forging the foundation and affirming the eternal vitality in the open sea. These are the values that build the political fortitude of each officer and soldier, ensuring unwavering commitment and readiness to dedicate ourselves to the love of the Fatherland,” Captain Mai Viet Cong shared.
The young man's gaze was fixed on the sea. Years have passed, and although new songs now resonate on this former prison island, the tragic memories of that era remain, reminding today's generation of the message: "Life arises from death, happiness emerges from hardship and sacrifice." Mai Viet Cong said: "Today's young generation is proud to come to Con Dao, to contribute to the island. May the songs that pierced through the steel walls of yesteryear forever become a flame, nurturing beautiful ideals and a greater sense of responsibility…"
Notes by THU TRANG - THÚY HÀ; photo: TRẦN HUẤN
(To be continued)
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