Unique 'puffer fish' grilled in banana leaves

That's right, "tadpole" is a tadpole, it looks "disgusting" but once grilled, once tasted, you will never forget...

A pung dish

HOANG SON

Ethnic minorities in the Truong Son mountain range call frog tadpoles by different names, but what impressed me the most is the way some Pa Koh and Ta Oi people in HA Luoi (Thua Thien- Hue ) call them “puffer fish”. People simply explain that “fish” because it lives in water and can swim like a fish, “puffer fish” because its belly is big and round like “full stomach”. Also because of the strange shape of “puffer fish”, dishes related to it also challenge the courage of the eater.

When I was first invited by Mr. Le Thanh Tong (Ta Oi, residing in A Ngo commune) to try grilled “puffer fish” in banana leaves, I held my chopsticks and hesitated... Understanding, Mr. Tong smiled and said: “Anyone who sees this dish for the first time is the same. But don’t be afraid, just try it once”. This time, I returned when the cold weather of the mountainous region was at the beginning of spring. Mr. Tong said that at this time, “puffer fish” are breeding, but the most delicious must be the stream “fish”, which is the offspring of the famous green frog species with delicious meat.

Mr. Tong made an appointment to “witness” how to prepare “puffer fish” grilled in banana leaves in the evening… When I arrived, I saw Mr. Tong cleaning the “fish” intestines. “The preparation is simple, then put everything in banana leaves. There is no general “recipe” for the grilled spices. Personally, I find it best when I add green onions, parsley, chili peppers… and a little salt,” said Mr. Tong.

“Now I will grill for 1 hour,” Tong said, turning the banana leaf wrapper over and over again. He said that the ethnic minority community in A Luoi calls this dish a pung. A pung usually only appears during holidays and is served to honored guests. This dish is best when the “fish” has not yet turned into a frog. As he said that, he poked his hand into the banana leaf wrapper. The four outermost layers of leaves had turned to charcoal and broken off, revealing the innermost layer, which had turned yellow. The grilled dish was now done.

I gently opened the banana leaf. I smelled the aroma of fresh “fish” meat mixed with the characteristic scent of parsley, banana leaves… Picking up a piece and putting it in my mouth, the first feeling was that the “frog” meat was cooked to perfection and very soft. Chewing another piece, the sweetness of this “fish and frog” animal melted in my mouth, indescribably delicious. As soon as I swallowed, the spicy taste of chili pepper hit me, my taste buds seemed to “explode”…

I was sniffing when Tong handed me a cup and told me to drink it. I took a sip and felt the sour and astringent taste. I took another sip and the alcohol smell rushed up my nose. It was the special rice wine of the A Luoi people. Tong winked: "Have you tasted the taste of Tet in the highlands yet?". We laughed out loud. Outside, the mountain mist was coming down...

I was invited by Mr. Ploong Plenh (a specialist from the Department of Culture and Information of Tay Giang District, Quang Nam ) to visit his home during this Tet holiday with the promise of enjoying grilled frog tadpoles in banana leaves (dha jam a nhung) in the style of the Co Tu people. The way to prepare this dish is similar to that of the A Luoi people. The only difference is that the traditional spices are seasoned in the banana leaf package. “When making this dish, I usually add a little ginger, wild pepper (mac khen) and a little salt so as not to “ruin” the flavor. If you want it to be salty or bland, just add a bowl of crushed salt and chili peppers, whoever wants it to be salty or bland can just dip it in,” Mr. Plenh shared.

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