Unique 'pufferfish' grilled in banana leaves.

That's right, "ọc nóc" is indeed a tadpole; it looks disgusting, but once grilled and tasted, you'll never forget it...

A Pung dish

HOANG SON

The ethnic minorities in the Truong Son mountain range call tadpoles by various names, but I was most impressed by the way some Pa Koh and Ta Oi people in Ha Luoi (Thua Thien- Hue ) call them "fish with a big belly." They explain it simply as "fish" because it lives underwater and can swim like a fish, and "fish with a big belly" because its belly is large and round, like someone who has eaten until their belly is full. Because of the strange appearance of the "fish with a big belly," dishes made with it also test the courage of those who eat them.

When Mr. Le Thanh Tong (a Ta Oi man residing in A Ngo commune) first invited me to try grilled "pigeonfish" wrapped in banana leaves, I hesitated before picking up my chopsticks... Understanding my hesitation, Mr. Tong smiled and said, "Everyone feels the same the first time they see this dish. But don't be afraid, just try it once." This time, I returned during the cool weather of the mountainous region, as spring was approaching. Mr. Tong said that at this time, "pigeonfish" are breeding, but the best ones are the stream "fish," which are the offspring of the famous green frog species with their delicious, fragrant meat.

Mr. Tong arranged for me to witness firsthand how he prepares grilled pufferfish wrapped in banana leaves in the late afternoon… When I arrived, I saw Mr. Tong cleaning the fish's intestines. “It’s just a simple preparation, then put everything in a banana leaf. There’s no general ‘recipe’ for the grilling spices. Personally, I find it tastier with green onions, cilantro, chili peppers… and a little salt,” Mr. Tong said.

“Now we’ll grill it for an hour,” Tong said, turning the bundle of banana leaves back and forth. He explained that the ethnic minority communities in A Lưới call this dish “a pung.” A pung is usually only served during festivals and holidays, and is often given to honored guests. The dish tastes best when the “fish” hasn’t turned into frogs yet. He then poked at the bundle of banana leaves. The four outermost layers of leaves had charred and broken apart, revealing the innermost layer which had turned yellow. The grilled dish was ready.

I gently untied the banana leaf wrapper. I smelled the aroma of fresh "fish" meat mixed with the distinctive scent of cilantro and banana leaves… I picked up a piece and put it in my mouth; the first sensation was the perfectly cooked, very tender "frog-like" meat. Chewing another piece, the sweetness of this "fish-frog" creature melted in my mouth, indescribably delicious. As soon as I swallowed, the spiciness of the chili peppers hit, my taste buds seemed to explode…

I was savoring the aroma when Tong handed me a glass and told me to drink. I took a sip and tasted a sour, slightly bitter flavor; another sip and the aroma of alcohol wafted up my nose. It was the special rice wine of the people of A Lưới. Tong winked: "Have you tasted the flavor of Tet in the highlands yet?" We burst out laughing. Outside, the mountain mist was descending…

I was invited to visit Mr. Ploong Plênh's house during Tet (Lunar New Year) by Mr. Ploong Plênh (a specialist from the Culture and Information Department of Tay Giang District, Quang Nam Province ), who promised to let me enjoy grilled frog tadpoles wrapped in banana leaves (đha jâm a nhưng) in the style of the Co Tu people. The preparation method is similar to that of the A Luoi people. The only difference is that the traditional spices are added to the banana leaf wrapper. "When making this dish, I usually add a little ginger, wild pepper (mắc khén), and a bit of salt to avoid ruining the flavor. I also make a bowl of finely ground salt and chili peppers; people can dip it in as much salt or as little as they like," Mr. Plênh shared.

Source link: https://thanhnien.vn/doc-dao-ca-oc-noc-nuong-la-chuoi-1851541715.htm