My Tho Old Market, Ancient Citadel

A time of urban prosperity

My Tho used to have a pier connecting the six provinces and the first railway line in Indochina (1885). At that time, travel from Saigon to the southwestern provinces of Vietnam and vice versa stopped in My Tho. The Messageries Fluviales shipping company was also established around this time. Even in the late 1970s, in the afternoons, the Bao Dinh River was still densely packed with boats from the confluence with the Tien River to the New Bridge (My Tho market). These were boats from the southern provinces waiting to unload agricultural products to be transported to Saigon.

The bustling life of My Tho developed very early. The book Dai Nam Nhat Thong Chi describes it as follows: My Tho Market, popularly known as Pho Lon (Big Street), had tiled-roof houses with carved pillars, spacious temples, and tall communal houses on the riverbank. Seagoing and river boats constantly came and went, truly a prosperous and bustling metropolis. After the war between the Tay Son and Nguyen dynasties, My Tho's main street became a battlefield. Houses and markets were almost completely burned down. From 1788 onwards, people gradually returned, and although prosperous, it was less than half of what it had been before.

The old My Tho market today

Previously, in the year of Ky Mui (1679), more than 3,000 former officials of the Ming dynasty fled to Vietnam on 50 warships. They were allowed to settle in the South by Lord Nguyen Phuc Tan (Hien Vuong). General Tran Thuong Xuyen went to the Dong Nai River basin, while Duong Ngan Dich and his deputy Huynh Tan went to the left bank of the Bao Dinh River, clearing land, establishing villages, and developing towns and markets. In 1698, when Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu sent Nguyen Huu Canh to the South to survey the land, Minh Huong village was established. When clearing land and establishing the village, they built religious structures, and one of the first structures in the old Minh Huong village was Ong Bon Pagoda, which still stands today.

According to Duy Minh Thi's *Southern Vietnam's Six Provinces Geographical Gazetteer* , the Truong Don garrison was initially established in the year Ky Hoi (1779), with its administrative center located in Kien Dinh hill; in 1781, it was moved to My Chanh 8 village (old My Tho market) and renamed Tran Dinh garrison. In the 7th year of Gia Long (1808), it was renamed Dinh Tuong garrison. In the 13th year of Minh Mang (1832), the garrison was again changed to Dinh Tuong province. In 1863, the French colonialists dissolved Dinh Tuong province, dividing it into four inspection districts: Kien An (My Tho), Kien Hoa (Cho Gao), Kien Dang (Cai Lay), and Kien Tuong (Can Lo).

A vital waterway

According to the Gia Dinh Thanh Thong Chi (Chronicle of Gia Dinh City), in the past, the Vung Gu River flowed from the Vam Co Tay River to the Thi Cai inn. To the west, the My Tho River only flowed to Luong Phu market (commonly known as Ben Thanh) and then ended. The area in between consisted of continuous terraced rice fields, which the enemy often exploited to attack our troops. In the year 1705 (the year of the Rooster), Nguyen Cuu Van ordered the construction of a long rampart from the Thi Cai inn to the Luong Phu market. Outside the rampart, a moat was dug connecting the Vung Gu River with the My Tho River. Later, when the waterway was improved, it was deepened to allow boats to pass through.

But when they reached Vọng Thê (commonly known as Thang Trông), the tides met, forming a confluence of waters, with many winding, shallow sections, forcing boats to anchor and wait for higher tide before they could proceed. In the 18th year of Gia Long (1819), the king ordered the governor of Định Tường, Nguyễn Văn Phong, to take 9,679 laborers from the town to work together to widen the canal from Thang Trông to Húc Đồng. After the canal was completed, a stele was carved to record the achievement, erected on the riverbank near Thang Trông market, and a report was sent to the court. The king named it Bảo Định canal.

Vinh Trang Pagoda

The Đại Việt magazine, issue 9, 1943, contains an article about Thị Nghè: "At the zoo, standing on the bridge spanning the small Thị Nghè river. But why is it called Thị Nghè? Because there is a Bà Nghè bridge on this river. It's called Bà Nghè bridge because in the early 18th century, on the other side of the river lived the house of Mrs. Nghè. Her name was Nguyễn Thị Khánh, and her husband was a secretary at the Phiên Trấn palace, so people commonly called her Mrs. Nghè. Nghè was her husband's title. It's called Thị Nghè because people didn't dare mention her family name, as she was the eldest daughter of the Imperial Commissioner Vân Trường hầu Nguyễn Cửu Vân."

When the Chợ Gạo canal from Kỳ Hôn estuary to Vũng Gù was completed, the Bảo Định River was no longer a vital waterway, especially after the Saigon-Mỹ Tho railway line was inaugurated. From then on, boat traffic on the Bảo Định River decreased, and the two spans of the Quây Bridge no longer had a reason to exist. In 1939, the Quây Bridge was replaced by a concrete bridge.

The traces of old Định Tường have disappeared.

The ancient Định Tường citadel was located in Minh Hương village, east of the Bảo Định River, surrounded by four roads leading to Gò Công, Gò Cát, Phú Kiết, and Lộ Ma. Lộ Ma was once a desolate area, devoid of houses, with few people passing through, and overgrown with trees. Legend says that ghosts and demons often appeared on this road, harassing the local people, hence its name, Lộ Ma (Ghost Road).

According to the Dinh Tuong Geographical Gazetteer (Trac Quan Do, 1973), in the past, the only road in the area was the one from the inner city to Thang Trong market, which was paved with bamboo. Other roads were only suitable for horseback riding, carrying palanquins, or carrying loads on one's back. The most convenient mode of transportation at that time was by water. The population lived densely along the riverbanks and canals. Further away were dense, wild forests teeming with dangerous animals.

The ancient Định Tường citadel no longer exists because after conquering Mỹ Tho at a considerable cost, the French expeditionary forces ordered its leveling. Since then, the eastern bank of the Bảo Định River has become "former territory." However, structures around the old citadel such as the Old Market, Kim Liên Temple, Mỹ Chánh communal house, Ông Bổn Pagoda, Bửu Lâm Pagoda, Thiên Phước Pagoda, Vĩnh Tràng Pagoda… still remain. The old Kim Liên Temple, located on Cầu Kè Canal, was renovated in 1963 to become the current Kim Liên Pagoda. (to be continued)

Source: https://thanhnien.vn/nhung-ngoi-cho-doc-dao-my-tho-cho-cu-thanh-xua-185240520215250821.htm