Final article: Reviving the essence of brocade weaving

Việt Nam•09/07/2024

Traditional brocade weaving has a long history in Vietnam and is a distinctive cultural feature of the S'tieng ethnic group in Binh Phuoc province . However, this craft is currently facing the risk of extinction. To preserve this traditional craft, many S'tieng women have overcome difficulties to maintain and develop it, hoping to pass it on to future generations so they can be proud of their ethnic cultural identity.

The brocade fabrics woven by the Quang Minh Commune Brocade Weaving Association in Chơn Thành Town have been favored by many designers for creating new, distinctive fashion designs. Viet Hung (from Ho Chi Minh City), who designed two brocade ao dai (traditional Vietnamese dresses), highly praised Binh Phuoc brocade and appreciated its cultural heritage value.

Modernized brocade weaving

These brocade ao dai dresses, made from fabrics woven by the Quang Minh Commune Brocade Weaving Association, are designed by designer Viet Hung, combining them with other fabrics to ensure comfort and flexibility for the wearer. In particular, the brocade patterns are combined with images of lotus flowers and bamboo, making the garments even more eye-catching.

According to assessments, the brocade products of the S'tieng people in Binh Phuoc are beautiful, rich in cultural identity, and highly valuable, but they are still in decline because they are still rudimentary and unsuitable for modern office, meeting, and entertainment spaces, thus failing to meet the demands of the market and modern life. Furthermore, the fact that S'tieng women weave brocade using traditional methods, with patterns of skirts, blouses, scarves, loincloths, etc., results in brocade products that are not very appealing to customers or users, even among the S'tieng people themselves. Therefore, in addition to fashion items, the brocade weaving craft of the S'tieng people in Binh Phuoc needs to diversify its products to include tablecloths, bags, wallets, etc., to meet the needs of modern life.

Furthermore, many customers prefer using brocade products for interior decoration. This presents an opportunity to both sell and promote brocade products. One effective commercialization method is to upgrade brocade products to have higher practical applications such as interior decoration, sofa making, etc. Brocade can also find outlets through connections with the fashion design community to create brocade garments that shine on the catwalk and in everyday life.

Bringing brocade into everyday life.

As a daughter of the S'tieng ethnic group, Ms. Drênh Thị Hạnh, Vice Chairman of the People's Committee of Quang Minh commune, has always loved and been passionate about the brocade fabrics woven by her people. Having been involved in the traditional brocade weaving craft since childhood, taught and inspired by her grandmothers and mothers, Ms. Hạnh understands even more the value of brocade. To preserve and promote the brocade weaving craft and integrate brocade into daily life, Ms. Hạnh proactively creates suitable blouses and dresses for work and parties. She currently owns more than 10 modern brocade dresses and blouses that can be used as everyday wear.

Ms. Nguyen Quynh Vy from Chon Thanh town said: "I've seen Ms. Hanh wearing many traditional brocade outfits that are well-designed to fit her figure, both distinctive and very 'soulful'. Especially when I attended Ms. Hanh's daughter's wedding in 2023, I was very impressed with the bride and groom; they wore traditional clothing but in a very youthful, unique, and stylish way."

Driven by a desire to preserve and promote the cultural values of their ethnic group, the Quang Minh Commune Brocade Weaving Association was established in 2023. The association currently has over 10 members, all S'tieng women skilled in brocade weaving. Ms. Thi Phuong, the association's leader, said: "My mother taught me brocade weaving from a young age. Previously, I used to weave fabric to sell, but now I find ways to weave whatever patterns people order. The women in the association often guide each other in weaving complex patterns, recommend sources of quality thread, and encourage each other to preserve our ethnic group's traditional craft."

Ms. Drênh Thị Hạnh, Vice Chairperson of the People's Committee of Quang Minh commune, often wears traditional brocade clothing to work.

Modern brocade outfits worn by Ms. Drênh Thị Hạnh and her daughter.

To bring brocade into everyday life, Ms. Drênh Thị Hạnh, Ms. Thị Phương, and many other S'tiêng women in Quang Minh commune have also created modernized clothing designs suitable for contemporary life, combining brocade with other fabrics or materials to create the traditional ao dai, preserving traditional elements while embracing modern aesthetics. These modernized brocade garments, with their improved silhouettes and practical combinations, are more accessible to the general public and have begun to gain popularity among women.

S'tieng girls showcase brocade weaving at the Pha Bau festival in Quang Minh commune, Chon Thanh town.

Traditional brocade fabrics have been modernized to create beautiful fashion products that appeal to the tastes of young people.

The brocade costumes produced by the Quang Minh Commune Brocade Weaving Association have received much praise, with many people trying them on the first time they see them.

Ms. Tuong Van, a tourist from Ho Chi Minh City attending the Pha Bau festival in Quang Minh commune in 2024, said: “I was really impressed with the brocade costumes worn by the young S'tieng people at the festival. The costumes were beautiful, modern, attractive, and unique. From that, I felt even more strongly about the value of brocade, not only as the culmination of hard work and dedication, but also as a source of pride in the traditional cultural beauty of the ethnic group here.”

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