Along the Ma River

The Ma River is officially called Loi Giang. The Thai and Lao people call it Nam Ma, which translates to "Horse River" in common Vietnamese. However, etymologically, "Ma" is a Chinese character representing the river's true name, meaning "mother river" or "main river," referring to a large river. Along this 512km stretch, the river's flow is not just a solitary melody; its rhythmic course has become intertwined with the lives of the communities on both banks.

Along the Ma River The Muong Luan Tower is located on the banks of the Ma River, which flows through Muong Luan commune, Dien Bien Dong district (Dien Bien province).

From the source

The Ma River begins at the confluence of streams in the Vietnam-Laos border region at Muong Loi commune (Dien Bien district, Dien Bien province). However, along its course, the river receives water from many other streams, so by the time it reaches Muong Luan commune (Dien Bien Dong district), its surface is wider, it flows rapidly, and officially bears the name Ma River on maps.

The route we took from Dien Bien City to Dien Bien Dong District was about 70km, mostly through winding hills and mountains, not unlike the border region of Thanh Hoa province where I am deeply attached. Dien Bien Dong was originally separated from Dien Bien District, a district mostly inhabited by ethnic minorities who depend on the mountains and forests for their livelihood. Essentially, the forests here have been barren, with only jagged rocks visible. In recent years, the government has made efforts to encourage people to plant trees, and the forest cover rate has reached about 26%.

Dien Bien Dong, located in the Ma River basin, boasts a relatively dense network of rivers and streams, providing abundant water resources. Currently, there are 14 hydroelectric power plants along the Ma River. However, no other area has as many hydroelectric plants as Muong Luan commune. Along the 15km stretch of the Ma River, two hydroelectric plants are situated entirely within the commune: Muong Luan 1 and Muong Luan 2. Additionally, two other hydroelectric plants, Song Ma 3 and Chieng So 2, have dams that flow through the commune's water storage area. Furthermore, two hydroelectric plants, Song Ma 2 and Chieng So 1, are connected to the commune's water storage area.

"As soon as you arrive in Muong Luan, you can clearly hear the sound of the flowing water. Later, I'll treat you to some squid from the Ma River, something you won't find anywhere else in Thanh Hoa, " I was truly curious after hearing the introduction from the Vice Chairman of the People's Committee of Muong Luan Commune, Lo Van Khanh.

Why is it said that the Ma River only officially appears on maps when it reaches Muong Luan? Because upstream, in Muong Loi commune, the Ma River is nothing more than a series of small, babbling streams that often dry up. When more streams contribute water, the Ma River becomes more powerful and turbulent. Just to name a few: Lu stream, Hang Lia stream, Tia Dinh stream, Na Nghiu stream, Phi Nhu stream, Huay Men stream, Nam Gioi stream, Huay Pung stream, Co Loong stream, Tang Ang stream, and many other small streams.

The Ma River flows through the area, and the alluvial plains along its banks are fertile, ideal for farming and aquaculture. “Good land attracts good people. We Laotians decided to settle here, living together in harmony with the Thai, Mong, and Khmu ethnic groups in Muong Luan,” said Mr. Lo Van Son, Secretary of the Commune Party Committee. Laotians make up nearly 30% of the population in Muong Luan. They cultivate rice, grow cotton, and spin yarn to weave colorful and durable scarves and skirts to wear during festivals: the New Rice Festival, the Water Festival, and the temple worship ceremony. The Laotians here are proud of the Muong Luan Tower, a national historical and cultural relic, the traditional Laotian Lam Vong dance, and the art of brocade weaving. These favorable conditions, coupled with the hard work of the Laotian, Thai, and Khmu ethnic groups, have made Muong Luan the first commune in Dien Bien Dong district to be recognized as achieving New Rural Area standards.

Speaking again about the squid from the Ma River, during lunch, Mr. Lo Thanh Quyet, Vice Chairman of the People's Committee of Muong Luan commune, introduced us to it: The section of the Ma River flowing through Muong Luan commune has many deep pools and rocky rapids, many whirlpools, and large caves at the bottom of the river, making it an ideal habitat for many fish species such as catfish, carp, and other types of fish... But when you come here, you must try the squid from the Ma River, which is completely different from the sea squid from Sam Son, the hometown of Principal Ho Cong Nam.

Hearing this introduction, Mr. Ho Cong Nam, Principal of Muong Luan Ethnic Boarding Primary and Secondary School, smiled and said: "I'm from Bai Mon village, Quang Van commune, Quang Xuong district. The squid from my hometown is white, but the squid here is green... Eating it with sticky rice and a few glasses of wine will leave a lasting impression."

It turns out that it's moss that the locals harvest from the rocks under the Ma River. The upstream section of the Ma River has clean and fresh water, so the rock moss is a gift from nature. Mr. Ho Cong Nam came to Dien Bien when he was in 11th grade. After graduating from university, he has worked in Muong Luan commune from 2002 until now. "Having lived here for 22 years, I've witnessed the changes firsthand. Before, it took at least a day to get from Muong Luan to the district center, mainly by foot. On rainy days, it could take three days to get there. Thinking back now still gives me the chills."

But now, starting from the Pá Vạt bridge connecting Na Nghịu village in Phì Nhừ commune with Pá Vạt 2 leading into Mường Luân, you see that everything from the roads to the houses is big and beautiful. Especially since 2022, when the Sông Mã 3 hydroelectric power plant came into operation and connected to the national power grid, people have the opportunity to go to their fields by boat, instead of walking for days or weeks to reach their fields. Now, agricultural products are also transported by boat; traders come by boat to buy them directly. A new life is taking shape on the hydroelectric reservoir.

And when the Ma River flows into Thanh Hoa province

After passing through Dien Bien province, the Ma River meanders, flowing mainly northwest-southeast through Song Ma district of Son La province and then into Laotian territory at the Chieng Khuong border gate. In Son La, the Ma River continues to receive water from several streams in Thuan Chau, Mai Son, Song Ma, and Sop Cop districts. In Laos, the Ma River is 102 km long, flowing through Xieng Kho and Sop Bau districts of Hua Phan province and receiving additional water from the Nam Et stream in Xieng Kho.

Along the Ma River The Ma River flows green in the Muong Lat region.

On its 410km journey into Vietnam, starting from Tén Tằn, the Mã River flows fiercely and violently during the flood season, creating hundreds of waterfalls and rapids along a 270km stretch through Mường Lát, Quan Hóa, Bá Thước, Cẩm Thủy, Vĩnh Lộc, Yên Định, Thiệu Hóa, Thanh Hóa City, Hoằng Hóa, Sầm Sơn City, before emptying into the Gulf of Tonkin as the main channel of the Mã River (Hới - Lạch Trào estuary) along with two tributaries: the Tào River (Lạch Trường estuary) and the Lèn River (Lèn - Lạch Sung estuary). Along its majestic course, the Mã River also joins the Nặm Niêm, Luồng, Bưởi, and Chu rivers, giving rise to numerous legends.

The Ma River is not as large as the Red River, the Mekong River, or the Dong Nai River, but it holds an extremely important geopolitical and geocultural position for the Vietnamese nation in general and Thanh Hoa province in particular. This is because, "this river has contributed to nurturing the peoples of history and fostering ancient cultures, including the Muong culture, playing a crucial role in the formation of the Van Lang - Au Lac state and the brilliant Dong Son civilization" (according to Assoc. Prof. Dr. Mai Van Tung).

Each time I arrive at the Tén Tằn border gate area (Mường Lát), the echo of the Mã River is like a greeting as it flows into the source of Thanh Hóa province. Here, since 1947, the 52nd Regiment, operating in the Northwest, western part of Thanh Hóa province, and Upper Laos, was tasked with protecting the Vietnam-Laos border and wearing down the French army in the Northwest and Upper Laos, inspiring the poet Quang Dũng to write "Tây Tiến" (Westward March). The Sài Khao area, once just forests and mountains, is now undergoing a transformation. Resolution No. 11 of the Provincial Party Committee on the construction and development of Mường Lát district until 2030, with a vision to 2045, is an opportunity for Mường Lát today to "shine brightly along the border." The Mã River in the remote border region of Thanh Hóa no longer has to roar its solitary tune. Downstream along the Ma River are 7 hydroelectric projects: Trung Son, Thanh Son, Hoi Xuan, Ba Thuoc I, Ba Thuoc II, Cam Thuy I, and Cam Thuy II.

Along both sides of the Ma River in Thanh Hoa province lies a system of temples and shrines bearing historical imprints of our ancestors' fighting spirit in nation-building. For millennia, boats carrying forest products from the upstream and seafood from the downstream have traveled back and forth, a place where the sweat and tears of ferrymen and boatmen have crystallized into the "Do Huay" folk song, imbued with the spirit of the sacred river and the soul of the mountains of Thanh Hoa. Only in this land is there a folk song named after a river – the unique Ma River folk song, unlike any other in Vietnam.

The Ma River has existed for generations, flowing powerfully for hundreds of kilometers, but until the American bombing of North Vietnam, it had only one bridge: the Ham Rong Bridge. The riverbed structure in this area is very complex; the high water level difference at the Dau Rong and Ngoc mountains creates a torrential flow, and the sloping, steep rock surface of the riverbed, along with numerous caves, makes underwater construction extremely difficult. Nearly 200 Vietnamese bridge builders lost their lives, and one French engineer, terrified, committed suicide. Only after a German engineer revised the design was the anchor bolts successfully installed. In 1904 (after three years of construction), the Ham Rong Bridge was completed, connecting the Ma River from Ngoc mountain to Dau Rong mountain.

In 1947, as part of the scorched-earth strategy to prevent the French from advancing and capturing Thanh Hoa city, we had to destroy the bridge. Nearly 10 years later, we rebuilt this historic bridge on the sacred land of Ham Rong. Throughout the war, this bridge remained the number one target of the American air force, aiming to cut off our vital supply route to the Southern battlefield. Tens of thousands of tons of American bombs and ammunition were dropped day and night; countless ships carrying supplies to the battlefield had to pass through Ham Rong, and countless people were buried under American bombs in this historic river, leaving behind the echoes of Ham Rong and the never-ending memory of fallen comrades.

The Ma Giang River, the only major river originating in Vietnam and flowing for millennia, may no longer be raging and roaring, but peaceful and gentle, much like our lives today.

Text and photos: KIEU HUYEN

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