Grilled herring, a delicious and rustic dish.

The period from February to March of the lunar calendar each year is the season when fishermen in the coastal areas sail out to sea to catch herring. And, in the memories of the people of this coastal region, grilled herring, though simple, is irresistibly delicious, a familiar and cherished dish that they remember no matter where they go.

Ms. Nguyen Thi Man (on the left) grills herring to sell to customers - Photo: TRAN TUYEN

Fishermen in Trung Giang commune, Gio Linh district, often cast their nets to catch herring in the nearby waters, a few nautical miles from the shore. On days with favorable weather and a good catch, each boat can make 2-3 trips per day, bringing in several hundred kilograms of herring and earning several million dong. Although herring is highly nutritious and rich in protein, it has many bones, and its selling price at the beach ranges from 10,000 to 15,000 dong per kilogram.

For our generation, grilled herring is a delicacy steeped in the hardships of childhood. As children, every evening we would sit together on the sand waiting for our family's boat to return. As soon as the boat docked, the adults would work together to remove the fish from the nets. Meanwhile, the children would quickly gather the larger fish and wash off the sand at the water's edge.

Next, select appropriately sized casuarina branches and skewer the fish. The skewered herring is then grilled over a pre-lit charcoal fire. The casuarina wood burns brightly, and the charcoal glows red. After about 10-15 minutes, when the bluish-white scales of the herring turn a golden brown, the fish is perfectly cooked.

Peeling the fish with your hands releases an irresistible aroma. The grilled herring is very sweet, with just the right balance of firmness and tenderness. It's perfect when dipped in a mixture of coarse salt, crushed fresh chili peppers, and green peppercorns. Many people who try this rustic dish for the first time exclaim, "It's irresistibly delicious!"

Many years ago, when herring were caught and brought ashore, women would light charcoal and set up grills to cook the fish, then take them to the market to sell. Mrs. Nguyen Thi Man in Ha Loi Trung village, Trung Giang commune, did the same. However, for about five years now, she has been buying herring from boat owners in the village and setting up her equipment along the coastal road. She grills and sells the fish to passersby. After many years, Mrs. Man has built up a list of regular customers.

Anyone who comes to buy and eat grilled herring at Mrs. Man's "stall" (called a stall to sound fancy, but it's really just a makeshift tent covered with a few thin tarpaulins) has to squat or sit on a small plastic chair. They blow on the fish while eating, savoring the aroma. But it's very enjoyable! Beside them, Mrs. Man regularly fans herself with a bamboo fan, using her other hand to turn the fish on the grill with chopsticks, serving customers. She's also a knack for storytelling. Whether the customers are strangers or acquaintances, she tells them stories about fishing, trading fish, and the lives of the local fishermen...

Not long ago, a few foreign tourists passing through Ha Loi Trung village on the coastal road stopped to enjoy Mrs. Man's grilled herring. Despite the language barrier, through body language, both host and guests understood each other and happily enjoyed the pleasant atmosphere.

The other day, I went back to my hometown for the weekend. The sun hadn't yet risen above the pine trees, but Mrs. Man was already sitting in her usual little corner grilling fish. Walking a few dozen meters to Mrs. Man's "stall," I ordered a platter of grilled herring and leisurely enjoyed each piece of fish melting in my mouth. I still savored the sweet, fragrant, and tender taste of the fish, the salty flavor of the coarse salt, and the spicy kick of fresh chili and green peppercorns.

When asked about her sales, Mrs. Man honestly replied: "A few years ago, I was the first person to sell fish on this roadside, so many customers stopped to buy. Now, many people along this road are selling like me, so the number of customers has decreased. But my regular customers still come. Some regular customers even live dozens of kilometers away and still buy fish from me when they come here to swim. Selling at a steady pace each day provides extra income to make ends meet."

Indeed! In recent years, instead of taking their fish to district markets or other markets within and outside the commune to sell seafood, the women in this coastal area have been selling their catch along the coastal road connecting Cua Tung and Cua Viet. Hundreds of vehicles pass by daily, allowing them to sell their goods steadily, providing them with additional income and saving them the effort and cost of transporting their seafood over long distances. The seafood sold here is always fresh and delicious, earning the trust and favor of customers. Another equally important factor in attracting customers is the genuine and simple nature of these women.

Tran Tuyen

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