For a long time, Phong Du Thuong has been known as the "kingdom" of dong leaves in the Northwest region. No one remembers exactly when the dong leaf plant first appeared here, only that it grows naturally under the humid forest canopy. Seeing its beautiful, broad, dark green leaves, people brought them home to plant around their houses, and gradually it spread throughout the forests.
Ms. Lo Thi Phuong, a Tay ethnic woman from Lang Chang village who has been harvesting dong leaves in the forest for many years, shared: “The dong leaves in Phong Du Thuong are different from those in the lowlands. Thanks to the suitable climate and soil, the dong leaves here are tough, have a smooth, glossy surface, and small veins. When wrapping banh chung (Vietnamese rice cakes), the leaves not only give a vibrant green color but also retain the pure aroma of the mountains and forests. Even after boiling for more than ten hours, the leaves do not turn red.”
While in many places farmers are busy year-round with rice and corn, in Phong Du Thuong, the dong leaf harvest is a special season, harvested only once but crucial to the family's Tet (Lunar New Year) celebrations. Starting in late November (lunar calendar), people in Phong Du Thuong begin searching for areas with abundant dong leaves. By early December, the entire Phong Du region enters the peak season for dong leaf harvesting. From the elderly to the young, everyone is busy going to the forest to pick leaves. The work may seem easy, but it requires patience and perseverance. Leaf pickers must find naturally growing patches of leaves in the forest, navigating through dense bushes, selecting leaves that are mature enough, undamaged, and free from pests.
Ms. Lo Thi Phuong said: “Every year, I go with other women in the village to pick leaves starting from the 1st of December (lunar calendar). Every day I wake up at 5 a.m., pack my lunch, and head to the forest to pick leaves. We ride our motorbikes to the edge of the forest, leave them there, and walk until 8 or 9 a.m. to reach the destination. On lucky days, we can pick 1,400 to 2,000 leaves, but some days we only get 400 to 500 leaves.”
After being brought from the forest, the leaves are carefully sorted. Large leaves are used for the large, traditional banh chung (Vietnamese rice cakes), while smaller leaves are used for wrapping long cakes or lining pots. Bundles of 50 leaves are securely tied with bamboo strips and stacked, awaiting buyers.
Ms. Phuong said: “The dong leaves are mainly found in the forests of Cao Son, Ban Lung, Khe Det, and Lang Chang villages. In recent years, the yield has decreased because the streams are drying up. Each season, Ms. Phuong harvests about 10 tons.” This is a generous “Tet bonus” that nature bestows upon the people here.
For the people of Phong Du Thuong region, banana leaves are not only a means of livelihood but also carry sacred spiritual values. Each leaf wraps fragrant sticky rice and succulent pieces of meat, which then appear on the ancestral altars of many Vietnamese families during the Lunar New Year.
Amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life, where many old values are gradually changing and sticky rice cakes (bánh chưng) can be bought ready-made at supermarkets anytime, the fact that the people of Phong Dụ Thượng still persistently maintain the livelihood of harvesting dong leaves shows the strong vitality of their national culture. Besides providing economic value, dong leaves are also an indispensable part of the traditional Tet (Lunar New Year) culture of the Vietnamese people. The image of green sticky rice cakes wrapped in dong leaves has become a symbol of Tet, evoking memories of origins and beautiful traditional values.
The family of Ms. Tran Thi Van, residing in Yen Ninh 4 residential area, Yen Bai ward, still maintains the tradition of making banh chung (traditional Vietnamese rice cakes) for Tet (Lunar New Year).
Ms. Van shared: “I started going to the market to buy leaves around the 24th or 25th of Tet. At that time, there were many choices, so I would choose beautiful bundles of leaves that were suitable for the size of my family's rice cakes. Leaves from Van Yen region are the most beautiful. I heard that dong leaves grow naturally in the forest, which is why the rice cakes are so fragrant.”
After buying the desired bundles of leaves, Mrs. Van would bring them home and wash each leaf individually. This process in the family often captivated the children. They would happily play with the leaves in the clear water while washing, using small cloths to scrub and wipe them...
The banana leaves, brought from the forest to the city, carried by mothers and grandmothers into every kitchen, hold the thoughts, feelings, and hopes of each person for a peaceful and happy new year, a bountiful harvest, and family harmony.
"I hope that the banana leaves will have a good harvest and fetch a good price, so that our people can have a warm and prosperous Tet holiday," added Ms. Lo Thi Phuong.
As Tet (Vietnamese Lunar New Year) approaches, the sight of lush green banana leaves lining the roads from the forests to the city streets adds to the festive and warm atmosphere. Banana leaves are not only used to wrap banh chung (traditional rice cakes), but also symbolize prosperity and abundance, a connecting thread between people and nature, and to the roots of national culture. A new spring is drawing near. The banana leaves begin to sprout again, nurturing life for future seasons. And so, that vibrant green will endure, a testament to a Tet cultural tradition that will never fade from the hearts of every Vietnamese person.
Source: https://baolaocai.vn/cau-chuyen-la-dong-post891446.html
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