Reviving the legendary 'sea silk' from shellfish

Sea silk - the world's rarest fabric, has just been successfully recreated by Korean scientists.

"Sea silk", a type of silk once used by ancient aristocrats, is woven from the "threads" of shellfish - Photo: Giulio Gigante

A research team led by Professor Dong Soo Hwang and Professor Jimin Choi (Pohang University of Science and Technology - POSTECH) created a gold thread similar to the thread that appeared 2,000 years ago, using shellfish (Atrina pectinata) farmed in the coastal waters of Korea.

This breakthrough not only restores the legendary “sea silk,” but also reveals the science behind its unchanging golden hue. The research has just been published in the journal Advanced Materials.

Sea Silk: The Golden Thread of the Ocean

Sea silk, or “golden silk of the sea,” was one of the most precious materials in ancient Rome, reserved only for the highest echelons of power, such as emperors and popes. This special fiber was created from byssus, the filaments secreted by the giant Mediterranean clam Pinna nobilis to cling to rocks.

Thanks to its indelible golden hue, light weight and exceptional durability, sea silk has been dubbed the “silk of legend”. A famous example is the Manoppello Shroud in Italy, believed to be woven from sea silk and preserved for centuries.

However, due to marine pollution and ecosystem degradation, Pinna nobilis is now on the endangered list, and its exploitation is completely banned by the European Union. Sea silk has since become a relic of the past, only handwoven in extremely small quantities by a few artisans.

From shellfish to legendary silk regeneration technology

POSTECH turned its attention to the Korean seashell Atrina pectinata, which is cultivated for food. Like Pinna nobilis, the shellfish secretes a byssus to attach itself to rocks. Analysis showed that the physical structure and chemical composition of the byssus fiber were nearly identical to the Mediterranean species, allowing the team to successfully reproduce the sea silk.

What’s special is that the study has solved the mystery of the enduring yellow color of sea silk. This yellow color does not come from dyes, but from the phenomenon of structural coloring, when light reflects off nanostructures inside the fiber.

The team discovered that globular proteins called “photonins” are arranged in regular layers that interact with light to create an iridescent effect, similar to the color of butterfly wings or soap bubbles. This color is stable over time because it does not fade like conventional dyes.

In addition, the study also showed that the more orderly the protein arrangement, the more vibrant the color. Unlike traditional dyeing, the color here is born from the fiber structure itself, helping sea silk retain its color for thousands of years.

This achievement also has great environmental significance, as it transforms discarded shellfish byssus into a sustainable, high-value fabric. This not only reduces marine waste but also unlocks the potential of environmentally friendly materials with historical and cultural significance.

“Textiles based on structural colors are naturally colorfast,” said Professor Hwang. “Our technology creates long-lasting colors without the use of dyes or metals, opening up new possibilities for sustainable fashion and advanced materials.”

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MINH HAI

Source: https://tuoitre.vn/hoi-sinh-lua-bien-huyen-thoai-tu-so-mai-20250813170720614.htm