According to cultural researchers, fish sauce originated from the Cham people and was "Vietnamese-ized" by the first Vietnamese migrants to Quang Nam, becoming one of the distinctive culinary features of the Vietnamese people. Fish sauce and the preference for it among the people of Quang Nam have shaped a unique culinary concept often referred to as "chopping large pieces and cooking with a salty sauce," completely different from the preference for sweetness in the South or the milder flavors of the North.
In the book "Understanding the People of Quang Nam," fish sauce is considered central to the culinary culture of Quang Nam, and it is fish sauce that makes the culture of Quang Nam richer, stronger, and closer to nature.
It's no coincidence that people in Quang Nam and Da Nang are often called "fish sauce people" to distinguish them from "shrimp paste people" in Hue. Because in the daily meals of the people of Quang Nam, regardless of social class or status, a bowl of fish sauce (fermented fish paste) will always be present.
Fish sauce even appeared in banquets hosted by court officials in the past. For example, in the lavish meal that the governor of Tourane hosted for the Macartney delegation in the 18th century, "there were plates of diced beef dipped in a delicious sauce." Fish sauce is also closely associated with the fishermen of Quang Nam province, acting as a protective agent against the cold of the sea when they have to dive deep to catch seafood.
When it comes to fish sauce in Quang Nam cuisine, the list is endless. From simple dishes like a bowl of spicy fish sauce mixed with garlic and chili peppers to dip boiled vegetables, or a stack of noodles that's enough to satisfy a hurried market day. On cold, rainy days, a bowl of hot rice with pickled vegetables and fish sauce is simply delightful. Or in the evenings, people often snack on a plate of crispy rice crackers fragrant with peanut oil and savory fish sauce.
For a slightly more upscale experience, there's the addition of expertly boiled pork with two pieces of skin at each end of the meat strip, or a piece of reddish-pink roasted veal wrapped in herbs and dipped generously in fish sauce. Or, more commonly, bowls of vermicelli with fermented fish sauce have become a renowned specialty of Da Nang.
The salty taste and distinctive pungent smell of fermented fish sauce might initially deter some, but once tried, few can resist the allure of this unique condiment. Because of this, fermented fish sauces such as anchovy sauce, herring sauce, pickled cucumber sauce, and pickled eggplant sauce, under brands like Dì Cẩn sauce, Nam Ô sauce, and Cửa Khe sauce, have become popular specialties throughout the country.
From simple country meals to lavish banquets, fish sauce has for generations contributed to the rich flavor of local cuisine while preserving its unique identity. Amidst the myriad flavors of Vietnam, Quang Nam fish sauce always possesses a distinct character: the salty taste of the sea, and the profound warmth of the people of the sun-drenched, windswept central region.
Source: https://baodanang.vn/mam-trong-am-thuc-xu-quang-3303294.html
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