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A tour of Vietnamese food in Germany

There is probably no other place in Europe where you can enjoy as many Vietnamese dishes as in Germany. From the remote northern island of Rugen in the Baltic Sea to every central train station in the major cities, Vietnamese restaurants are everywhere.

Báo Thanh niênBáo Thanh niên11/05/2025

My 20-day trip around Germany started in Frankfurt, went to Berlin, Potsdam, Rugen Island, Hamburg, back to Frankfurt, Mannheim, Heidelberg, Cologne, back to Berlin, and ended in Munich. The total distance was over 3,100 km, and the travel time was over 30 hours entirely by train, not counting the tram stops in each city I stayed in.

Vietnamese food connection

On the train from Cologne to Berlin, I sat across from an elderly, retired German couple. Many people say that Germans are cold and rarely talk to strangers. I nodded when I sat down and they responded with an inquiring look. But after a short trip, when they saw my water bottle on the table with the words "Vietnam" written on it, the wife suddenly spoke up.

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A Vietnamese restaurant located in a shopping mall in Hamburg

PHOTO: NTT

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Two Vietnamese restaurants on the same street in central Frankfurt, behind the black car are Bun Bo Hue and Pho restaurants.

PHOTO: NTT

Mr. and Mrs. Muller came from the suburbs of Cologne, Germany's fourth largest city, about 35 km from Bonn - the former capital of West Germany, to Berlin to visit their son's family during the May 1 Labor Day holiday. As someone who grew up in East Germany, she knew many Vietnamese people and had the opportunity to enjoy Vietnamese dishes but had never set foot in the country that she considered "extremely familiar". "We used to plan to go to Southeast Asia, including Vietnam, and Japan; we always thought about these places but time passed, now we are too old, and our health is getting worse", she regretted.

The story spans the rest of the train ride, from the Berlin Wall that divided the country, to the coming together again when the wall fell, and of course... pho. She acknowledges that food unites people, and says that Vietnamese food is very popular in this country, especially pho. This may be the most well-known foreign dish after Turkish kebab (or doner).

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On many major roads in German cities, or in shopping malls, we can easily find many Vietnamese restaurants, selling a variety of dishes from pho to bread, vermicelli, glass noodles, and spring rolls.

PHOTO: NTT

The Vietnamese are currently the largest group of Asian expatriates in Germany, with over 200,000 people. Their presence is found in every state and city, and it doesn't take long to find a hot bowl of pho, a bowl of spicy beef noodle soup or a bowl of eel porridge on a cold day when you need to recharge your batteries from home. At every train station in major German cities, you can easily find restaurants with the word Vietnam written on them. The diners are not only Vietnamese expatriates....

Vietnamese people in Germany play an important role, many are famous, there is even a Vietnamese person who was the Vice Chancellor of Germany - Mr. Philip Rosler (from 2011 - 2013).

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Vietnamese restaurant at Mannheim central train station. This brand has developed into a system, present in almost all major train stations.

PHOTO: NTT

Eat and drink along the way

Rugen is the largest island in Germany, located in the Baltic Sea, on the other side of Denmark and about 300 km from Berlin. The island has several white sand beaches, and is a popular destination for Germans in the summer. I came to the island in late April, the sun was warm but the water was as cold as ice, and it rained heavily in the afternoon and evening. In this weather, I could only eat something hot, so I searched online and was surprised to find a Vietnamese restaurant. I thought that in this remote land, far away from travel, there would be no Vietnamese restaurants, but no…

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The owner and young people serving Vietnamese people inside the restaurant decorated with familiar images, thatched roofs, conical hats, on a remote island in northern Germany

PHOTO: NTT

The restaurant is located about 20 minutes walk from the island's tourist center, crowded during the Easter holidays. The restaurant's menu, of course, cannot lack pho, although it is prepared very differently from the pho in Berlin or Frankfurt... But just a little taste of pho is enough to wake me up after a long and tiring journey combining train and bus. The owner of the restaurant is from Hanoi and said that she opened this restaurant 10 years ago, mainly for foreign tourists, the busiest time is in the summer, but in the winter, which lasts 4 months, the restaurant is closed most of the time. The restaurant's staff are also young Vietnamese people. They admit that they rarely have overseas Vietnamese customers coming to the restaurant, and I was probably the first customer from Vietnam.

Vietnamese food in Germany is diverse. There are restaurants that retain the original taste, like the Hanoi Pho in Frankfurt, which is the best bowl of Pho I had on the whole trip. This same place also sells a bowl of Bun Bo, which is almost identical to the Bun Bo I had in Saigon. Even the Banh Mi is excellent. Both times I was in Frankfurt on this trip, I stopped by and had my favorite dish.

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Beef noodle soup and pho at An restaurant, Frankfurt, are praised by many diners as delicious.

PHOTO: NTT

In Germany, the food you can find everywhere is Turkish kebak (and doner). But pho, beef noodle soup, banh mi… are also present everywhere, in Vietnamese restaurants and also in restaurants with Thai, Japanese, or Asian signs but owned by Vietnamese people. During the trip, I ate pho and beef noodle soup many times, but the dish that surprised me the most was eel porridge and vermicelli sold at a Vietnamese restaurant in Berlin. Holding a bowl of eel porridge with steaming aroma, I felt like I was in Vietnam…

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A bowl of eel porridge, a glass of sugarcane juice, and fried corn at a Vietnamese restaurant in Berlin

PHOTO: NTT

Of course, not every Vietnamese restaurant sells Vietnamese food... with the true Vietnamese flavor. This is understandable, because Westerners do not like spicy flavors or the strong smell of herbs, onions, and garlic. They are forced to adjust the dishes to suit their main customer group. For example, when I went to Mannheim and from there went to Heidelberg, a famous ancient city about 100 km from Frankfurt, I came across a restaurant called "Sai Gon". The bun cha dish has grilled chicken breast to help Western diners feel full because the grilled pork and the sausage are quite small. But that's okay, as long as it's a Vietnamese dish and the Vietnamese name is enough.

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Vietnamese restaurant in the old city of Heidelberg

PHOTO: NTT

Inside "Little Hanoi"

Vietnamese tourists who come to Germany but do not visit Dong Xuan market, do not know everything about Germany. Dong Xuan market is like a "miniature Hanoi" in the heart of Germany, not only because of its name but also because of many other memorable things. You get on the M8 train in front of Berlin central station, feeling like you are on a train in Vietnam, because there are many Vietnamese people also getting on that train to go to Dong Xuan market (about 40 minutes). Entering the market gate, which is simply built, you are lost in another world. There is no German, no English, almost no other language and only Vietnamese.

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Entrance to Dong Xuan market

PHOTO: NTT

Dong Xuan Market in Berlin, along with Sa Pa Market in Prague, Czech Republic, are the two largest Vietnamese markets in Europe, and perhaps the two largest Vietnamese markets outside of Vietnam. When it comes to markets, it is impossible not to mention food. In comparison, Sa Pa Market has restaurants concentrated in crowded rows and is more diverse in regions, while Dong Xuan Market has scattered restaurants, fewer but the food is equally delicious and diverse. In fact, many ingredients that are difficult to find in Germany, such as eel, are brought through Sa Pa Market and then to Dong Xuan Market. The same goes for many fruits such as lychee, dragon fruit, etc. In addition, prices at Dong Xuan Market are more expensive than at Sa Pa Market.

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Dong Xuan Market is made up of many halls, with a total area of ​​150,000m2, and was established more than 20 years ago by Mr. Nguyen Van Hien.

PHOTO: NTT

Inside the market, they mainly sell wholesale goods and fashion, but there are many mini supermarkets selling Vietnamese goods. They have all kinds of Vietnamese dishes, but... they are very expensive. For example, a dragon fruit costs 17 euros (493,000 VND) or a small bean the size of a fist costs 20 euros (much higher than the price of a bowl of pho or bun bo, which is usually 15 - 17 euros). You can also come here to get a haircut, have your clothes repaired, get your hair washed... at much cheaper prices than outside.

With more than 2,000 Vietnamese people doing business inside, many people say that if you have to stay in the market for a month, you might not need to speak a word of German, just use Vietnamese and eat Vietnamese food...

Source: https://thanhnien.vn/mot-vong-mon-viet-o-duc-185250509104628474.htm


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