Watching dolphins on the Mekong River

In Cambodia, the Irrawaddy dolphin symbolizes the biodiversity of the Mekong River and is often seen in the eastern town of Kratie.

Kratie is a small town with a population of about 13,000, located on the banks of the Mekong River. It retains many French colonial-era buildings, interspersed with modern structures. Kratie borders Binh Phuoc province in Vietnam and is described as "picture-perfect," with its long stretches of white sand dunes. The stretch of river north of the town is home to the Irrawaddy dolphin, an endangered species.

In 2007, the Mekong Dolphin Conservation Project in Cambodia (CMDCP), a collaboration between the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), the Cambodian Fisheries Management Organization, and the Cambodian Rural Development Group (CRDT), reported that there were approximately 66 to 86 dolphins remaining on the final 180-kilometer stretch of the Mekong River before it flows into Vietnam. This was considered a low number, raising concerns about the high risk of extinction for the species worldwide, according to the Khmer Times .

Tourists go boating to watch dolphins on the Mekong River. Photo: JP Klovstad — Tourists go boating to watch dolphins on the Mekong River. Photo: *JP Klovstad*

Irrawaddy dolphins are small, shy dolphins, dark gray in color with a pale underside, a small, rounded dorsal fin, and a straight, rounded head (also known as "cá nược" in Vietnam). They can reach a length of 2.75 m, weigh 150 kg, and usually live in groups of six. Irrawaddy dolphins are one of three species of dolphins that live in both freshwater and saltwater environments.

JP Klovstad, a 63-year-old Norwegian photographer who frequently travels from Vietnam to Laos and Cambodia, says that in Kratie, tourists can rent a boat to see dolphins. On the boat, you can admire the adorable dolphins as well as the tranquil scenery of the villages along the Mekong River. The boat drivers usually know the dolphins' locations and times, so you're almost certain to see them.

Irrawaddy dolphins used to frequent the Mekong River from the Laos-Cambodia border to the delta in Vietnam and Tonle Sap. However, their population and range have declined significantly over the past few decades. During the dry season, from January to May, when water levels drop, they congregate in nine deep pools along a 180-kilometer stretch of the Mekong River north of Kratie to the Laotian border. These pools provide safe habitats for the dolphins to rest and forage, but such populations also leave them vulnerable to fishing activities. During the rainy season, dolphins are occasionally spotted south of Kratie.

According to JP Klovstad, by renting a motorbike, tourists can freely explore without much planning. If information is needed, most guesthouses in Kratie are available to assist visitors. Furthermore, the locals are quite friendly and always willing to help tourists when needed.

"The last time I was in Kratie was last May. I paid $7 to take a boat out a few hundred meters to see dolphins surfacing. It was spectacular to see them playing and swimming right in front of me," JP said.

Irrawaddy dolphins spend most of their time foraging. They are not particularly active or acrobatic, but occasionally perform low dives. Irrawaddy dolphins typically dive for less than 2 minutes, but longer dives when frightened. Irrawaddy dolphins have a lifespan of approximately 30 years, and while some individuals reach adult size between the ages of 4 and 6, the exact age of sexual maturity is unknown. Baby dolphins have an impressive growth rate, reaching about 1 meter and 12 kg at birth, growing over 50 cm and weighing 33 kg in the first 7 months. Females give birth every 2-3 years.

JP Klovstad suggests that if you want to explore more of Kratie, don't forget to visit the Hundred-Pillar Pagoda located in Sambor district. What makes this pagoda special is that it has 100 pillars built from clay and plaster. To get there, you travel 36 km north from the center of Kratie town. The Hundred-Pillar Pagoda is a place to visit to learn about the architecture and history of the region. Besides that, you can also feel the peace and tranquility at the pagoda. There is also Phnom Sambok Pagoda, a famous religious site located in Kratie province. The pagoda is situated on top of Phnom Sambok mountain, 11 km from the center of Kratie.

If you're a food lover, you definitely can't miss the chance to enjoy Kratie's specialties such as freshly grilled corn tortillas, dried buffalo meat, and grilled beef.

The best time to visit is from January to May. You can also visit Kampi during the Khmer New Year (in mid-April) to enjoy a holiday.

For the closest dolphin-watching experience, you should stay at Kampi Resort, where you can enjoy a boat ride to admire the sunset on the river.

Many tourists choose to travel by road from Vietnam to Cambodia, especially from the southern provinces. However, the travel time is quite long. From Ho Chi Minh City, it takes 8 hours to reach Ha Tien (Kien Giang), 10-15 hours from Ha Tien to either Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, and then another 6-8 hours to Kratie. With these three legs of the journey, you should rest in Phnom Penh or Siem Reap to recharge before planning your trip to Kratie.

Flights from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi have reopened after Covid-19, however, ticket prices are quite high, ranging from 6 to 8 million VND for a round trip.

Thanh Thu

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