Remember Nha Trang coffee?

There are places that don't need much introduction; a single unique feature is enough to recognize them. For me, Nha Trang and its coffee are one such place.

Coffee is an indispensable part of my trips back to Nha Trang. Not necessarily because of a habit of drinking coffee, but because it's the closest way to connect with the daily rhythm of life in this place. Just sitting down in a small cafe, ordering a cup of coffee, everything around me seems to slow down.

On that small coastal town, coffee shops are everywhere: along main roads, in small alleys, in front of houses, or nestled under trees. Some shops open early in the morning to welcome commuters, while others stay open late for those who don't want to go home yet. Nha Trang today also boasts many familiar coffee brands like Highlands Coffee and Trung Nguyen. But with the same cup of coffee, when combined with the sunshine and salty sea air, the flavor seems different: not just the familiar bitterness, but a rich, earthy, very "Nha Trang" taste. Some jokingly say that the salted coffee here sometimes doesn't need added salt, because the sunshine and sea breeze are enough to create a unique salty flavor.

Each coffee shop in Nha Trang offers a slow-paced experience, a haven for visitors. Photo: GC

In the morning, coffee is enjoyed with the sunshine. In the afternoon, it's accompanied by the sea breeze. When night falls, coffee blends into the rhythm of city life, in beachfront bars, restaurants, and open spaces. Along the beach, there are establishments always bustling with international customers, such as Sailing Club or Louisiane Brewhouse. On their menus, coffee stands alongside cocktails, beer, and fruit juices. Every evening, live music plays, glasses clink, and laughter fills the air. Some drinks are creatively made with pineapple, passion fruit, and watermelon, offering a distinctly tropical flavor. My friends from America always love it, enjoying their drinks while gazing at the sea. Among them, iced milk coffee is their most popular choice, as it can be enjoyed at any time of day. It's so familiar that my American friends can even order it in Vietnamese with clear pronunciation. As evening approaches, the music becomes even more lively. There are songs familiar to many generations. There are fire dances that illuminate the entire beach. These spaces create a very open Nha Trang.

Leaving the beach and heading into the city, you'll find a wide variety of cafes. Some are garden cafes with fish ponds, greenery, and birds, perfect for family gatherings on weekends, like Yen Garden or Hoa Dong Noi. Sitting there, listening to the wind rustling through the leaves, it feels like being in the suburbs, even though it's in the city center. Others are charming, with soft, dim lighting, nestled among tree-lined streets. Small signs, simple yet impressive: Cha Cha Cha Cafe on Tran Binh Trong Street, a popular spot for young people to listen to music and enjoy unique coffees and milk teas, watching the sun set on the small street, making time seem to slow down a little.

Sidewalk coffee stalls, on the other hand, are a different world altogether. They're the morning meeting place for ordinary workers. Just a few plastic chairs and a small table in front of a house are enough for conversation to flow, like at Uncle La's stall on Nguyen Trung Truc Street.

Going for coffee in Nha Trang doesn't necessarily mean you have to drink coffee. My friends and I usually order fresh coconut water or juice. Foreign friends often ask, "Why invite me for coffee but not coffee?" I just smile. In Nha Trang, coffee is often just an excuse to sit together longer! Older people in Nha Trang often meet up for coffee with friends. They sit, take pictures, reminisce about old times, and talk about people they haven't seen in a long time. For young people, coffee shops are places for dates and meetings.

This time, when I returned, I visited a wooden café near my childhood home: An Café. On a quiet afternoon, I listened to an old song: “The road you walk home at noon / Purple flowers leaning, waiting / You’re just seventeen / Your hair just reaching your shoulders …” The music was very soft, but the memories were strangely vivid. Seventeen is long gone. But all it takes is a small café, a sunny afternoon, a familiar melody, and my youth comes flooding back. The old road, the white dress, and the things never said.

Having lived abroad for many years, accustomed to the fast pace of life, to big cities with all their conveniences, every time I sit down for coffee in Nha Trang, I feel like I'm transported back to a different rhythm of life. A rhythm that doesn't need to be rushed.

Sitting in a cafe in Nha Trang, I don't think much, I don't work, I just sit there, to know I'm here! Perhaps that's why, for those who have a connection to this land, coffee is not just a drink, but a way to remember. And to return.

Assoc. Prof. Dr. Pham Bich Ngoc (New York)

Source: https://baokhanhhoa.vn/van-hoa/nhung-goc-pho-nhung-con-duong/202603/nhoca-phenha-trang-09163fa/