On the Dong Van rock plateau

The famous winding curves of the Tham Ma slope are challenging for adventurers.

Alarm. Shocking. Surprise… are the most intense and wonderful emotions that we name in our journey back up to Dong Van rock plateau (Ha Giang province), also known as Dong Van Stone Plateau UNESCO Global Geopark.

But it is still difficult to describe the grandeur and magnificence of the unique landscapes as well as the charm from the melodies of rocky mountain life, the long-standing cultural traditions of the indigenous community. Although the mountainous terrain, deep and rugged, is not familiar to the plains, the attraction of the rocky plateau made us decide to "do a documentary trip" on the car. mount the machine.

The beauty of the rocky plateau is displayed on the roads, so don't be too excited nor too surprised when you are happy at the gate of heaven or peacefully through the pine forest because the "fears" make us scream with joy and happiness. amazing… still waiting ahead. 

Part 1: Spectacular road at the top of the country

From the landmark KM0 in Ha Giang City, following Highway 4C back up to Dong Van rock plateau 155km, through Vi Xuyen we were greeted by deep green hills, winding and winding slopes. From Quan Ba ​​Heaven Gate, the rolling scenery of Dong Van rock plateau gradually appears in the bright sunshine and thousands of clouds. 

Into the heritage domain "stone paradise" 

We arrived at Quan Ba ​​Heaven Gate near afternoon, the sun was shining like piercing through layers of towering clouds. This is a favorite "check-in" gateway for tourists and a place to "hunt" for many beautiful images touching the clouds.

From here, you can zoom in to cover the vast Tam Son valley, surrounded by mountains with the same message, rice fields, green crops... The highlight is "Co Tien Twin Mountain" - is The 2 limestone cones are shaped like the island's mounds of a young woman. 

If the Dong Van stone plateau is considered a "stone paradise", then Quan Ba ​​Heaven Gate is the gate leading to enter this fairyland.

From here, the Hanh Phuc road (QL4C) is also challenging for the "plain drivers", more and more the rocky plateau feels higher and higher, more dangerous with many passes on one side of the abyss. , on one side of the rocky mountain, the sharp bends of the sleeves, steep uphill but downhill are also attractive...

"Thousand meters up, thousands of feet down/ Whose house is Pha Luong raining far away...". The companion read Quang Dung's Tay Tien poetry, which sounded very appropriate to the context when we were surfing through the cool Yen Minh pine forest and then to the winding roads.

Perhaps it is not because of the name of this road that you should "travel with a couple", because the neighbors and towns are located very far from each other, so it is often "just you and me" on empty streets that need someone to talk to. express emotions or “giggle” to keep us firmly on the wheel in the face of unimaginable magnificence. 

Spreading to the northeast of Ha Giang province, Dong Van rock plateau includes Quan Ba, Yen Minh, Meo Vac and Dong Van districts. Located at an average altitude of 1.000-1.600m above sea level, on an area of ​​more than 2.360km2.

In 2010, Dong Van Karst Plateau officially became a UNESCO Global Geopark. Dong Van rock plateau reproduces in an extremely diverse, vivid and continuous way throughout more than 500 million years of Earth's history of geological evolution and life.

More than 90% of the plateau is limestone mountains, with sharp cat ears rocky mountains, deep and narrow ravines, so it is also known as the "Land of the canyons". The capital was divided by many faults, along with the effect of dissolving and washing driftwood of water later, creating many canyons, such as Tu San on Nho Que river with a depth of 700-800m, Mi River in Quan Ba, Khe Lia in Dong Van, Mau Due gorge in Yen Minh…

There are also many other fault manifestations, such as the famous Lao Va Chai fault in Yen Minh, crushed limestone in Quan Ba, folds and buckling in Can Ty...

On the rocky plateau, it is also easy to find countless paleontological fossil sites, such as fossil trilobites in Lung Cu over 500 million years ago today; hand-rolled fossils in Ma Le (Dong Van) about 400 million years; or other fossils such as rhombuses, sea lilies, corals... about 350-250 million years. Not to mention many other unique geological heritages such as Co Tien twin mountains, Lung Khuy cave, Kho My cave in Quan Ba ​​... "younger" - only formed about 5 million years ago. Reading that knowledge was overwhelming.

“Low gear” on the majestic majesty 

The roads on the rocky plateau are quite deserted. And even though the luggage is neatly strapped to the car, it is also necessary to bring drinking water and food to reduce hunger along the way. Because stops in the middle of the rocky mountains like the Moon Rock area are very rare. Visitors are very heartwarming when they meet smiling children wearing merry-go-rounds full of wild flowers and welcoming vendors. 

Ms. Tho Thi May's "grill" has chicken seeds, glutinous corn, pork, and even fragrant grilled sausages... and white and purple rice we all "request to eat". Mrs. May friendly chat, told many relatives in Lung Hoa B village, Sa Phin commune (Dong Van) to sell drinks, gifts and cakes to passersby. 

Lam rice is made from Yen Minh's specialty sticky rice, while corn is planted on rock holes. "Here, we can only grow corn and we can only grow one season, but in winter we can't grow anything," said Mrs. May, still keeping her smile shining like a wonder out there. 

The "grill" of Ms. Tho Thi May at the stop, has a beautiful view of Moon Rock.

Moon rock beach is made up of weathered limestone mountains, on the surface there is almost no vegetation cover, rocks and blocks cover the surface of the mountainside. As explained by geologists, the "lunar terrain" was created by the process of karst (erosion of limestone) over millions of years. Perhaps this majestic, but fierce natural scenery has made people think that they are on the moon and become the name. 

But our feeling of "lost to the moon" had to "fall down" to firmly hold the steering wheel to climb the pass, which "speaks of fear" has 9 dangerous twists, but also makes those who love to explore, Favorite conqueror: Tham Ma slope. The car shifts gears continuously on the "slope up a steep bend" but always feels left behind. Tham Ma slope is understood as the slope used to evaluate horse power.

Two girls jumping rope, having fun on the top of Tham Ma slope.

Legend has it that in the past, it was on this slope that people let horses carry goods from the bottom of the slope up, the horse that reached the top of the slope was still strong, the good horse would be kept by the people. Horses that go all the way down the slope but are weak and can't breathe, there are Thang Co pans in the highland markets waiting for them.

Today, good "iron horses" have conquered not only the Tham Ma slope but also from one mountain peak to another throughout the rocky plateau. In particular, the Ma Pi Leng pass - a road full of urges for adventurous "silk drivers", seen from a distance like a thread crossing craggy mountains.

But overcome "fear", is a beautiful majestic mountain natural scenery! The H'Mong language "Ma Pi Leng" means the bridge of the horse's nose, to say the most dangerous road, with steep slopes like the bridge of a horse's nose. On the 20km pass road connecting 2 districts of Dong Van and MIn o Vac, visitors feel like they are traveling in a sci-fi movie. 

The road named Hanh Phuc Street was started on September 10, 9 with the participation of more than 1959 young volunteers and more than 1.300 citizens of 1.000 ethnic groups H'Mong, Tay, Dao, Pu Peo, Lo Lo. …

The stone stele placed on the top of the pass records the construction of the pass, and is also a place to remember those who have sacrificed. To make the road, thousands of workers worked hard day and night to carve stones, especially the 2km road through the cliffs on the top of Ma Pi Leng pass was committed by suicide youths hanging on the cliff to encroach every centimeter to make a road in the mountains. 11 months. The iron will "do it all with our hands" in the face of the harsh terrain has brought a new look to the border highlands today!

Compared to the original pass road with only enough room for pedestrians and horse-drawn carriages, today Hanh Phuc road is wide, easy to go, large vehicles can pass and now many sections are still being expanded and repaired. cure. Standing on the top of Ma Pi Leng, I feel that man is so small in front of nature, and Happiness Road is truly an extraordinary masterpiece made by man.

Post, photo: TRAN PHUC 

>> Next period: From the top of the Lung Cu flagpole to the deep alley of Tu San