Phu Tho is a land rich in unique dishes, embodying the culture, affection, and sophistication of its people. Besides well-known dishes like fermented fish, Phu Tho town's "tai" cakes, banh chung (sticky rice cake), banh giay (rice cake), braised palm fruit, braised persimmon, sour cassava leaves, sour meat, etc., Phu Tho, with its many large rivers, also boasts an extremely diverse range of fish specialties. Therefore, dishes made from fish are always unique, novel, and unforgettable for food connoisseurs.
After being caught, the catfish are gutted, drained, and marinated with spices, primarily fermented rice paste.
After much anticipation to enjoy braised catfish with tomatoes – a unique dish of the fishermen, passed down for hundreds of years on the majestic Da River – we finally had the chance to savor it on a floating house bobbing on the water. The cooks were none other than the people who make their living daily by fishing and raising fish in cages on the Da River. They understood every tide, every fishing season, the habits of the special fish species on the Da River, as well as how to cook and prepare each type of fish as if they knew it like the back of their hand.
With nimble movements, Dương Tiến Dũng, from Zone 5, Xuân Lộc commune (Thanh Thủy district), scooped up nearly a dozen large catfish, each about the size of an adult's wrist, from the cage. The fish wriggled cleanly in the crystal-clear waters of the Đà River as he explained: "These are river catfish. I buy them from local fishermen and raise them in cages until they grow bigger. Only those who are familiar with them and know how to eat them catch them; I don't sell them in bulk."
The eggplant must be of medium ripeness and free from pests. After being cut open, it will be mixed with raw fermented rice paste and not soaked in water.
The river catfish, with their shiny, firm skin, came in various sizes and were arranged in a basin. Mrs. Cúc – Mr. Dũng's wife, a sharp-witted woman with a beautiful singing voice – hurried into the garden and, a moment later, returned with a basket of plump, white eggplants. Excitedly introducing the dish she was preparing, she said: "This braised catfish with eggplant dish is a specialty of the fishermen on the river, but now few people can cook it, especially restaurants. You've only ever seen catfish in hot pot or braised dishes, but I guarantee this braised catfish with eggplant is the first time you've ever tasted it, and once you've tried it, you'll remember it forever!"
Snakehead fish and pickled eggplant are two rustic dishes harvested daily by local fishermen.
Choosing eggplants that were free of worms, of a semi-ripe, round shape, Ms. Cúc peeled the stems, cut them in half, and put them in a bowl. Then she ran into the kitchen to find a jar of fermented rice paste, scooped a few spoonfuls into the bowl of eggplant, and mixed it well with both hands. She explained: "Mixing eggplant with fermented rice paste is a unique method of the fishermen, to make the eggplant soft, fragrant, and give it a distinctive flavor when braised with fish."
Next to him, Mr. Dung was also gutting fish. His method was very unusual. He gutted the fish by making a diagonal cut at the head, removing all the dirt and slime from the gills, then using a knife to scrape the slime along the fish's body, and as he cut the fish into pieces, he removed the intestines. The fish pieces looked firm, with prominent flesh, and a golden yellow color like turmeric. They were neatly arranged in a small bowl, then marinated with fermented rice paste, pork fat, salt, fish sauce, MSG, and a few slices of chili.
Preparing catfish before marinating isn't complicated, but it must be done correctly to preserve its natural freshness...
After the fish is prepared, it is marinated with fermented rice paste and spices for added flavor before being braised.
Dũng said: "Marinating fish absolutely requires fermented rice paste. When cooked, it gives off an unforgettable sour and aromatic flavor that pairs perfectly with the dish, and it also helps remove the fishy smell. Now we've modified it, adding MSG and fish sauce, but in the old days, our ancestors only used fermented rice paste and salt. You see, living on the river, we ate whatever was convenient, we didn't have as many spices as we do now."
Placing the pan on the wood-fired stove behind the house, Ms. Cúc explained: "Cooking this dish with a wood-fired stove is the proper way. The wood fire isn't as strong as a gas stove, so the fish and eggplant have time to absorb the spices and fermented rice paste properly." Stirring the eggplant in the pan, she seasoned and added a little water until it was just covered, saying: "Wait until the eggplant is cooked through before adding the seasoned fish and simmering until it starts to bubble gently." Rushing out to the garden to pick a handful of perilla leaves, coriander, and spring onions, Mr. Dũng washed them and chopped them finely on the cutting board. The aroma of the local herbs and spices filled the small kitchen, mingling with the scent of stir-fried eggplant and fermented rice paste, enriching the atmosphere of the breezy winter afternoon by the riverbank.
Braised catfish with fermented rice paste is a dish originating from fishermen, often cooked during cold weather, with gentle river breezes blowing in the evenings by the village docks.
Preparing a wide-rimmed bowl, Ms. Cúc explained: "You need a wide-rimmed bowl to serve this dish properly; a small, deep bowl won't do it right." Using a large ladle, she scooped the cooked eggplant and fish into the bowl, adding some herbs and spices. She further explained: "The spices lose their original color when cooked, so they're only added when you're ready to serve. The hot broth will cook the spices while preserving their vibrant color. I was a little clumsy today, so the color isn't very nice, please bear with me."
The aroma of fish, tomatoes, fermented rice paste, and spices makes the dish even more alluring and unique, leaving a lasting impression after just one bite.
Spreading out a mat and placing a tall tray in the middle of the floating house, Mr. Dung happily exclaimed: "It's done! Not quite perfect yet, but I think it tastes good. Come on in and enjoy the specialties of Xuan Loc, my hometown!"
Sitting cross-legged beside a cup of strong wine, amidst the chilly winter air, we savored the rich sweetness of the fish, the earthy flavor of the pickled eggplant, and the alluring aroma of fermented rice water, fish, scallions, and spices... allowing ourselves to absorb the delicious riverine dishes, the stories of business, and the transformation in mindset and way of thinking of the people in this magnificent land along the Da River.
As spring arrives, the delicious dishes from the river are a unique feature of the Da Giang people's cuisine, filling hearts with joy and the spirit of spring....
Source: https://baophutho.vn/doc-dao-ca-nganh-om-ca-205680.htm
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