Preserving the essence of the countryside through traditional dishes.

Deep in the mountains of western Nghe An, where mist-shrouded hillsides and babbling streams flow year-round, the Tho ethnic group has persistently preserved, through generations, a treasure trove of simple yet refined cuisine. Among them, sour leaf soup and buffalo horn-shaped cakes are two typical dishes...

The Tho people live scattered across many mountainous communes in Nghe An province, such as Tam Hop, Quy Hop, and Giai Xuan. Their close connection with the mountains, forests, and fields has contributed to the formation of simple yet distinctive dishes, passed down from generation to generation like a red thread connecting the community's culture.

The Tho ethnic people (Tam Hop commune) prepare traditional dishes in their community living space, preserving the flavors of their local cuisine . Photo: Dinh Tuyen

Among that rich culinary treasure, the sour soup with giang leaves, also known as "bưa" in the Tho language, is the dish that leaves the deepest impression. This soup boasts the characteristic tangy flavor of wild giang leaves, blended with the sweetness of chicken broth and the smooth consistency of finely ground rice. The preparation process, though rustic, requires finesse: Rice is soaked until soft and then ground together with giang leaves to create a smooth mixture; when the chicken broth boils, the mixture is slowly added and stirred continuously until the soup reaches its characteristic consistency.

In the past, when life was scarce, a single bowl of rice for a large family had to be shared skillfully. Therefore, the midday meal became a humane "division," ensuring everyone had enough to eat during those simple meals. Over time, this dish, once a lifesaver, has become a profound culinary memory, evoking the sharing, mutual support, and ingenuity of the Thổ people.

Finely ground rice, chicken, and giang leaves are the main ingredients that make up the signature dish of the Tho people. Photo: Dinh Tuyen

Mr. Truong Van Huong from Mo Moi hamlet (Tam Hop commune) shared: "Previously, meals only consisted of rice and giang leaves. Only when honored guests visited would people add chicken to show their hospitality and respect." This simple saying is also how the Tho people express their warm hospitality through each pot of comforting soup.

Besides the sour leaf soup, eggplant paste is another dish deeply rooted in the lives of the Tho people for generations. Originating from difficult times, this paste is made from very familiar ingredients: eggplant, chives, and some spices. The eggplant is boiled until cooked, briefly roasted over a fire to enhance its aroma, then pounded together with chives and salt. Although a simple, rustic dish, eggplant paste made meals during times of scarcity more flavorful, bringing a familiar and comforting taste. Even today, this dish remains present on the Tho people's dinner tables, a reminder of those difficult but meaningful times.

Chẻo cà, a rustic dish that contributes to the traditional flavors of the Thổ people's meals. Photo: Đình Tuyên

While the soup and pickled vegetables reflect the daily working life, the buffalo horn-shaped cake carries a strong religious significance. During festivals and holidays, the image of buffalo horn-shaped cakes, also known as dog head cakes, is always prominently displayed on the ancestral altar. The cake's curved shape, resembling a buffalo horn, symbolizes strength, prosperity, and the hope for a bountiful harvest.

The ingredients for the cake are readily available: fragrant glutinous rice, salt, and the leaves of the *dot* plant. The *dot* leaves must be carefully selected, free from insects and tears, and thoroughly washed to preserve their natural aroma. Whether rich or poor, every family prepares buffalo horn-shaped cakes during important festivals, considering it a sacred ritual to express gratitude to the gods and ancestors.

Children are excited to help their grandmothers and mothers wrap traditional crescent-shaped cakes. Photo: Dinh Tuyen

Today, with the development of community tourism in many areas inhabited by the Tho people, buffalo horn-shaped cakes have become a distinctive cultural product. Tourists flock to Vietnamese markets, eagerly buying these small, charming cakes as a gift imbued with the flavors of the mountains and forests, carrying with them the long story of the Tho people's customs.

Traditional croissants of the Tho people. Photo: Dinh Tuyen

From smooth, creamy rice porridge and rustic chili sauce to the sacred buffalo horn-shaped cake, each dish of the Tho people holds a story of the land, the forest, and human connection. Over the years, these dishes have not only nourished the people but also preserved the soul of the Tho ethnic community amidst the majestic landscape of western Nghe An, where cuisine is not just a need, but also a memory, an identity, and a source of pride.

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Source: https://baonghean.vn/giu-hon-que-qua-nhung-mon-an-dan-da-10312447.html