Enthusiastic Vietnamese staff serving customers in a Japanese restaurant - Photo: NGOC HIEN
Tokyo and Osaka have long been the "capitals" of Japanese culinary culture, boasting countless dishes and restaurants that reflect the authentic style of the Land of the Rising Sun. Few realize that behind these renowned dishes that captivate diners from all over the world lies the silent contribution of tens of thousands of Vietnamese workers and students.
They have become deeply involved in the Japanese culinary industry, while also serving as a cultural bridge through the meticulousness, cheerfulness, and timeless hospitality of the Vietnamese people.
"Ambassador" of Japanese cuisine
The Shinkansen bullet train departed from Tokyo Station, hurtling like an arrow at speeds up to 320 km/h, taking us to Osaka in just over two hours.
As night falls, the Dotonbori River—the sleepless heart of Osaka—sparks with vibrant sounds, dazzling lights, and the enticing aroma of food from the stalls lining its banks.
Upon arriving at the famous conveyor belt sushi restaurant, the first thing to do, like at many other places in Japan, is to queue for about half an hour before it's your turn when a group of satisfied customers emerge.
"Irasshaimase!" The greeting rang out, ushering us into a culinary space where hundreds of colorful sushi plates glided along a conveyor belt for diners to enjoy. Young kitchen assistants, with nimble hands pressing the rice and gliding sharp knives over each fresh slice of fish, impressed everyone.
A group of Vietnamese chefs working at the famous Kinryu Ramen restaurant in Osaka - Photo: NGOC HIEN
"Are you Vietnamese?" the waiter asked me, pulling down his mask with a friendly smile at meeting a fellow countryman. I was surprised to find that more than 20 staff members, from cashiers to kitchen assistants and cooks, were Vietnamese.
The employee, Tran Cong Khai (25 years old), said that during his more than a year in Japan, this shop helped him earn money to cover his living expenses and send "a little bit" back to his hometown in Ninh Binh .
Having just arrived in a foreign land, Khai relied on his compatriots for job referrals. After struggling in various restaurants, he finally settled down at this one, which had an all-Vietnamese staff.
"I feel at home here. There are people from the North and Central regions, but they still speak Vietnamese. Although everyone has their own circumstances, they all love and support each other in their work," Khai recounted.
Nguyen Phuong Minh (23 years old, from Nghe An), a female student studying abroad with a kind and gentle face, also has nearly two years of experience working in the kitchen.
Minh said that the Japanese prefer hiring Vietnamese people because of their hard work and perseverance, and they can also learn the carefulness and meticulousness from them.
According to Minh, working in a Japanese kitchen isn't difficult; every dish has a recipe, and the seasonings are measured precisely, so the staff "just follow the instructions." Moreover, the restaurant is full of Vietnamese people, and those who have worked there before guide the newcomers, so the work runs smoothly, and they receive their salaries regularly each month.
"We often joke that we're culinary ambassadors, and that's true, because while the restaurant's soul is Japanese, the Vietnamese contribute a lot to the operation that brings delicious dishes to the table," Minh explained.
Interestingly, any restaurant with Vietnamese staff seems to have a youthful energy, a warm and friendly smile to greet customers, and naturally, the dynamic service style typical of young Vietnamese people.
Izakaya restaurants in Tokyo always have many Vietnamese staff serving and cooking - Photo: NGOC HIEN
Building a home in a foreign land.
My journey exploring Japanese culinary culture has left me with a striking observation: many Vietnamese couples come to Japan through family reunification programs. They build their homes, have children, and create lives centered around Japanese cuisine.
However, behind the good income and civilized educational environment for their children lie silent struggles with language barriers and homesickness.
After finishing his shift at the Wagyu BBQ restaurant, Hoang Minh Thai (34 years old, from Quang Tri province) cycled back to his rented room like many other Vietnamese workers. The restaurant always has 30-40 Vietnamese people working in shifts, coordinating seamlessly from inviting customers and selecting dishes to preparing, serving, and handling payments. The restaurant is always packed, with everyone busy at work.
Thai's journey to Japan began with the pioneering step of his wife, Nhu Lam. In 2017, his wife went to Japan and brought him back to reunite the following year. The couple began their life together in the Kansai region.
Over eight years, their small family welcomed two new members. What warmed this young family's heart was that the second generation (F2) began to integrate deeply into Japanese society by attending public schools and speaking Japanese like native speakers.
Izakaya restaurants in Tokyo always have many Vietnamese staff serving and cooking - Photo: NGOC HIEN
Their married life revolved around the Japanese food industry, with the wife managing trainees who produced sushi, rice rolls, and other similar products for wholesale to restaurants.
"Vietnamese people are deeply involved in the Japanese food chain, working in food production, processing, packaging, and delivery companies, as well as serving and preparing food in restaurants of all sizes in Japan," Ms. Lam said.
Despite having a stable business, Mr. and Mrs. Thai don't want to settle here because language remains a major barrier; despite years of work, Thai's Japanese hasn't improved much. Instead, they bought a plot of land in their hometown, planning to return home and open a Japanese restaurant after their second child finishes first grade.
As for Dang Minh Hai (28 years old, from Hanoi), after five years of reuniting with his wife and having a baby, Hai decided to buy a house worth 7 billion VND. His wife has a stable income, and the Japanese bank is willing to lend up to 80% of the house's value, with an interest rate of only 0.8% per year and a term of 35 years.
With loan policies allowing up to 100% financing and personal income tax deductions on loans, many Vietnamese couples can easily buy a home.
Currently, Hai works as a "shopper" for the restaurant, counting food items, balancing products, and placing orders from suppliers.
"Back home, I rarely went to the market, but here, work led me to become a 'market-goer' for restaurants. It's tiring, but it's also fun. The best part is that I'm with fellow countrymen at work, and my wife and children are waiting for me at home at night," Hai confided.
As the last trains of the day leave the station and the restaurant doors close, young Vietnamese people begin cleaning and tidying the kitchens. They weren't born in the Land of the Rising Sun, but they contribute to keeping the culinary flame burning brightly with their dedication to making a living far from home.
Two Vietnamese female cashiers attend school during the day and work at a Japanese restaurant at night - Photo: NGOC HIEN
"The beautiful woman" pouring sake in Tokyo.
Refusing to accept employment, many Vietnamese have achieved success by opening their own Vietnamese restaurants in Japan. Some restaurants have become Vietnamese community centers, hosting wedding ceremonies and other celebrations. Some Vietnamese business owners have even become deeply involved in the nightlife economy, renting space and opening bars and pubs right in Tokyo.
In the narrow alleyways of Tokyo's nightlife districts, it's not uncommon to see young Vietnamese women working at Vietnamese bars. Beneath the dim lights, there's a different world of livelihood for these women who pour drinks, serve, and chat with customers.
Unlike the image of busy international students working in restaurants, the work of girls in bars requires a different "weapon": beauty, skillful communication, and a deep enough command of Japanese to understand the customers' feelings.
Huong Ly (22 years old, from Hanoi) says that pouring wine is the highest-paying job, but also the most demanding.
"Many older Japanese people have money and status, but they are very lonely, so they come to the bar not just to drink but to buy someone to listen to them. You have to know when to smile, when to nod in agreement, and even when to politely refuse overly flirtatious advances," Ly said.
Vietnamese people are friendly in foreign lands.
Kenji Sato, the owner of an izakaya restaurant in Tokyo, said that he initially hired Vietnamese staff due to a labor shortage, but the more he worked with them, the more he found that Vietnamese people learn very quickly, are hardworking, and especially have a very good emotional connection with customers.
"Many regular customers come to the restaurant not only for the food but also because they want to meet and chat with the Vietnamese staff here," Kenji said.
Source: https://tuoitre.vn/nguoi-viet-giu-lua-bep-nhat-100260624090645122.htm
