Products of the flood season. Photo: PHAM HIEU
Bustling at night
We met Mrs. Ngo Thi Ut, a resident of Vinh Te ward and the owner of a fish wholesale business, sitting at the "underworld market" waiting for fishermen to bring their fish back to weigh. It was only the beginning of the fifth watch of the night, but nearly 20 people had already gathered there, chatting and laughing throughout the night. Fishermen, burdened with buckets and containers of fish to sell, were laughing and talking animatedly.
The owner of the fish market urged her workers to quickly sort the fish, shrimp, and crabs. Meanwhile, her daughter, in her more relaxed role as "accountant," busily jotted down notes and pressed buttons on a small calculator, creating a rather bustling scene in the night.
Seeing that the worker and her husband couldn't keep up with the workload, Mrs. Ut rolled up her sleeves and sat down on a small chair to quickly sort through the fish. Only after Mrs. Ut had a break did we dare approach her to ask about the fish and fish sauce at this "underworld market."
Ms. Ut said that during the flood season, there are so many fish in the fields that fish wholesalers have to buy them from around 3 AM until early morning to be able to deliver them to small traders who then take them to the markets to sell to people. "Like these guys here, they bring in fish, shrimp, snakes, rats... from the fields around 3 AM. I buy them, then sort them and give them to wholesalers to sell at the early morning markets," Ms. Ut said.
Ms. Ut's fish market buys tilapia, snakehead fish, catfish, catfish, and carp from 50,000 to 130,000 VND/kg; and field mice at 60,000 to 90,000 VND/kg... According to Ms. Ut, the water level in the fields is still quite high, and there are plenty of fish, but not as much as in previous years. Around the end of October, the water will recede, and there will be more fish and shrimp. Fishermen will therefore have more attractive incomes.
Regarding the name "underworld market," Ms. Ut explained that because there were many fish stalls close together, people called it a market because it was crowded. Furthermore, the market only exists during the flood season and only operates from late night until dawn, hence the name "underworld market"...
Make a decent amount of money.
At Mrs. Ut's fish market, Mr. Nguyen Van Dung, who makes a living by fishing with nets in Vinh Te ward, said that the water level in the fields has increased. Various types of fish, including carp, catfish, snakehead, tilapia, and many other aquatic products, have also arrived with the rising water. At this time, those who make a living by fishing with nets, traps, and other fishing gear, like him, are also out on the vast, waterlogged fields day and night to earn their living.
"Now there are more fish coming in. Every night, I cast my nets and earn a few hundred thousand dong, on lucky nights it's over 1 million dong, sometimes even over 2 million dong, so it's really rewarding!" Mr. Dung shared.
Nguyen Van Chuol, a resident of Vinh Te ward, holding a bag of cleaned field mice and a bunch of snakes he caught late at night to sell, said that besides setting nets, he also drives his small boat along the flooded canal banks to hunt field mice to sell and earn extra income.
"After setting the nets, I diligently go out with a flashlight to catch rats and snakes while waiting for the time to check the nets. On average, I earn a few hundred thousand dong each night, and if I'm lucky, I can pocket a million dong," said Mr. Chuol.
According to locals who make a living during the flood season in the Vinh Te area, at this time of year, catfish are abundant and large, fetching high prices, so whenever they hit a good spot, they can rake in millions of dong; naturally occurring tilapia, which are normally rare, are now also available in this "underworld market"; and especially the plump water snakes, particularly the water lily snakes, sell for quite a high price...
Ms. Nguyen Thi Day, a fish vendor at the "underworld market," said that at over 3 a.m., she and several other vendors went to the fish depot along the Vinh Te canal to buy produce from the flood season to resell at the market for profit.
"I make an effort to wake up early to buy fresh fish from the fish market, then resell it at Chau Doc market, earning a few hundred thousand dong profit each day. Locals really like the produce of the flood season, so it sells very quickly! Many people even buy it as gifts to send to relatives and friends in other areas, so fish, shrimp, and especially snakes are sought after more," Ms. Day said.
One interesting thing about this market is that fishermen who bring their produce from the flood season to sell are always treated to a hot meal by the market owners to regain their strength after a long night at sea amidst the vast flooded fields.
According to the warehouse owners, this is a way for them to maintain relationships and, more importantly, to express the affection and generosity of the people who live together and make a living from the traditional craft in the Southwestern region of Vietnam.
Leaving the "underworld market" of Vinh Te freshwater fish as the sun gradually rises, along the fields thick with silt, the men, after a long sleepless night, are still diligently preparing nets, crab traps, and fishing gear to continue searching for the bounty of the flood season… All of this creates a vibrant yet peaceful rural scene in this remote border region.
Source: https://baoangiang.com.vn/nhon-nhip-cho-am-phu-mua-nuoc-noi-a464487.html
