I arrived in Bac Ha on a late autumn day. Amidst the shimmering colors of the morning on the white plateau, with clouds still clinging to the mountain slopes, the Bac Ha market – one of the ten most attractive markets in Southeast Asia – was bustling with people. On the slope leading to the market, the traditional Hmong ethnic dresses fluttered and swayed like rainbows. Women, girls, and young ladies with radiant smiles wore their brocade dresses, carrying "lu co" (a type of ceremonial basket) on their shoulders. Hmong men were engrossed in their graceful Hmong flute dances, sending their hopes and longings through the melodious sounds echoing throughout the mountains... All these images and sounds have become symbols of the beloved land of Bac Ha.
The Hmong Hoa people in Lao Cai mainly reside in highland communes such as Bac Ha, Si Ma Cai, Pha Long, and Ta Gia Khau… Over generations, they have woven a rich cultural treasure, from language, clothing, musical instruments, festivals to customs and traditions. Each aspect of the Hmong Hoa people's culture is a piece in the colorful tapestry of the borderland of Lao Cai, where people and nature are intertwined like threads embroidered tightly over the years.
In a traditional house in the center of Ban Pho village, Bac Ha commune, Ms. Sung Thi Xoa - the head of the traditional brocade embroidery group - meticulously works on each stitch. Her hands move swiftly, each stitch vibrant like blossoming flowers in the valley. Beside her, Giang Thi Say, a young Hmong girl, remains passionately engaged in her embroidery, despite her somewhat clumsy hands.
Embroidery not only beautifies dresses and clothing, but also preserves the national spirit, shared Ms. Xoa, her eyes shining with pride: "Each pattern on the Hmong floral dress tells a story, sometimes it's the image of mountains, sometimes a stream, sometimes the footprints of people going to the fields. We embroider with all our hearts."
Linen fabrics, colorful threads… through the hands of the Hmong people, become vibrant dresses and garments, imbued with the spirit of the mountains and forests. It is through these hands that the traditional craft of their ancestors is revived in a new way of life.
If the Bac Ha market were a vibrant painting, the Hmong people would be the dominant color in that painting. Every Sunday morning, the cultural space of the market resembles a festival. The sounds of flutes and pipes, the lively chatter and laughter, blend with the aromas of thang co (a traditional Hmong dish), corn wine, plum blossoms, mustard flowers, and brocade fabrics... Hmong men bring out their flutes and play them, their melodious sounds seemingly calling to the clouds and wind. Hmong girls in their colorful dresses twirl in the sinh tien dance, their shy smiles hidden behind umbrellas… This is not just a joyful reunion, but also a way for them to preserve and pass on the culture of the Hmong people.
In communes like Pha Long and Ta Gia Khau, spring festivals and the Gau Tao festival are still held annually. The elders teach their children and grandchildren how to play the Hmong flute and other traditional instruments, and how to embroider patterns to create unique brocade designs. Hmong culture exists not only in memory but is also present in daily life, in the sound of the flute in the morning, in the dances under the moonlight, in their customs, and in the way people love and bond with each other.
Beyond preserving their culture in daily life, many Hmong women are now taking their traditional crafts further afield. At cultural fairs and tourism festivals in Lao Cai, the sight of Ms. Xoa, Ms. Say, and other members of the traditional embroidery group in Ban Pho, Bac Ha, showcasing Hmong brocade products has become familiar. They bring not only vibrant embroidered fabrics but also a sense of ethnic pride. There, visitors can admire the dresses and clothing, immerse themselves in the sounds of the Hmong flute and dances, and listen to the melodious folk songs echoing from the clouds and mountains.
Each Hmong brocade product, from bags and scarves to skirts and blouses, is the culmination of time and soul. It is a vivid testament to the enduring cultural vitality of this border community, where culture is not merely for display, but lives, breathes, and accompanies the Hmong people in every step of modern life.
Mr. Giang A Hai, Director of the Bac Ha Regional Center for Culture, Sports and Communication, shared: “Hmong Hoa culture is a very unique part of the cultural landscape of the ethnic groups in Lao Cai. Preserving Hmong Hoa culture is not just about maintaining a traditional craft, a traditional costume, or a folk song, but about preserving the spiritual roots of the entire community. We are coordinating with local authorities, women's groups, and artisans to restore and teach embroidery, organize spaces for performing Hmong flutes and folk songs, so that the younger generation can be proud and continue the tradition.”
“Hmong culture is a very unique part of the cultural tapestry of ethnic groups in Lao Cai. Preserving Hmong culture is not just about maintaining a traditional craft, a traditional costume, or a folk song, but about preserving the spiritual roots of the entire community. We are coordinating with local authorities, women's groups, and artisans to restore and teach embroidery, organize spaces for performing Hmong flutes and folk songs, so that the younger generation can be proud and continue the tradition.”
According to Mr. Giàng A Hải, the change in the awareness of the younger generation of the Hmong Hoa people is a welcome sign. They not only preserve but also innovate: combining traditional materials with modern designs, bringing Hmong Hoa brocade products to the tourism and fashion markets. "That is the most sustainable way to preserve," Mr. Giàng A Hải emphasized.
Amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life, where industrial products and embroidered goods are becoming increasingly popular, and modern songs, dances, and even music composed using artificial intelligence are becoming more appealing and permeating every small village... Yet, the Hmong people of Bac Ha, Si Ma Cai, and Pha Long still choose to "slow down" to preserve every traditional thread, every traditional dance, every melodious flute tune, every resonant sound of the Hmong flute... in every festival, every village gathering. They create unique cultural spaces to introduce and promote to tourists near and far... so that everyone can better understand, love, and connect with the culture and people of the Hmong. They worry that if the flute and other musical instruments disappear, if the embroidered skirts and vibrant markets vanish, their ethnic identity will fade away like clouds dissipating.
Artisan Ly Seo Phong from Ban Pho village once said: "Preserving culture is preserving one's soul. Losing it means losing one's roots." Perhaps it is precisely this perseverance and steadfastness that has allowed the Hmong culture to remain vibrant and intact amidst a rapidly integrating and developing region like Lao Cai – possessing both ancient charm and a fresh, modern quality.
From the melodious sound of the Hmong flute echoing on the mountainside to the meticulous stitching on each fold of their brocade skirts, the Hmong culture remains vibrant like an unceasing stream. Each Hmong woman – like Ms. Xoa, Ms. Say, and countless generations – is silently passing on and preserving this heritage… they are the guardians of the soul of their ethnic identity. In today's journey of development, preserving culture is not only a source of pride but also an intrinsic strength that enables the Hmong people to confidently move towards the future – a future where the vibrant colors of Hmong culture shine brightly amidst the clouds and the majestic mountains of Northwest Vietnam.
Presented by: Bich Hue
Source: https://baolaocai.vn/sac-mau-tren-cao-nguyen-post885654.html
