I remember, in the late 1970s, my first visit to Ca Mau , as the dawn broke, painting the Ganh Hao River golden. Small wooden boats glided gently across the water, the rhythmic sound of their engines blending with the waves lapping against the sides like an endless symphony of the countryside. Here, the river is not just a means of transportation, but also a repository of countless life stories, from distant fishing trips to bustling floating markets. The people of Ca Mau live on the river, are friends with it, and it seems that in every sparkling drop of water lies a long story of resilience and love of life.
Ca Mau boasts a complex network of rivers and canals, like the bloodstream nourishing the fertile alluvial land. Large rivers such as the Ong Doc River, Bay Hap River, and Cua Lon River are not only trade routes but also repositories of the people's cultural memories. I once sat in a small boat, gliding through the narrow canals winding through the mangrove forests. On both banks, rows of lush green mangroves stretched their roots down to the water's surface like steadfast guards standing watch against the flow of time. Occasionally, a fish would splash, creating ripples on the water's surface, or the chirping of birds from the foliage would transport me to a realm of peace.
The waterways of Ca Mau are not only beautiful in their pristine nature but also in the vibrant spirit of its people. The Ca Mau floating market, once like the floating markets on the Ganh Hao or Trem rivers, is a quintessential image of the riverine culture of the Mekong Delta. Boats laden with goods, from sweet fruits to freshly caught fish, bustle back and forth. The sounds of buyers and sellers, laughter and chatter echo across the river, creating a vivid picture of livelihood and simple joys. I once heard an old woman selling fruit on a boat recount how her whole life had been intertwined with the river, from her youth as a young girl rowing a boat until now, with her hair turning white. “The river gives me fish, I give the river six verses of traditional Vietnamese folk songs…” she laughed, her hearty laugh as genuine as the vastness of the river itself.
But the waterways of Ca Mau are not always peaceful. This southernmost tip of Vietnam, bordering the sea, also faces the wrath of nature. Storms from offshore, saltwater intrusion that dries up the fields, pose significant challenges for the local people. I have witnessed Ca Mau fishermen, their skin tanned by the sun, their hands calloused, yet persistently clinging to the rivers and seas. They say the rivers and waters are like a mother, always protecting and nurturing them, no matter how harsh. It is this harshness that has forged the character of the people of Ca Mau: resilient, open-minded, and full of compassion.
The waterways of Ca Mau are also home to unique cultural features. The folk songs and call-and-response singing on the river, and festivals like Nghinh Ong or the Mieu Ba ceremony, are all closely connected to the water. I once attended a Mieu Ba ceremony in Tan An commune, where people released small, beautiful paper boats onto the river, carrying prayers for a bountiful harvest and a full catch of fish and shrimp. Watching the flickering candles float on the water, I felt the sacredness and the strong faith of the people in the river – their friend and mother.
It's impossible to talk about the waterways of Ca Mau without mentioning the mangrove forests, where rivers and seas meet. The Ca Mau Cape National Park, with its vast mangrove forests, is a testament to nature's wonder. Sailing through the small canals, I felt like I was in another world , where only the sound of wind rustling through leaves, the gentle murmur of water, and the salty scent of the sea could be heard. Crabs and fish hid beneath the forest canopy, flocks of migratory birds soared in the sky – all creating a rich ecosystem centered around the waterways.
The rivers and waterways of Ca Mau are also an endless source of inspiration for poetry, music, and art... For me, every time I return to Ca Mau, sitting by the river and watching the sunset, my heart is filled with an indescribable longing. The shimmering color of the river water, reflecting the setting sun, is like a reminder that, no matter where I go, this land will always be waiting for me to return.
The rivers and waterways of Ca Mau, therefore, are not only a natural landscape but also an integral part of the people's lives. They are the source of life, the repository of memories, and the nurturer of dreams. Though time may pass and the world may change, the rivers of Ca Mau continue to flow, silently telling the story of this resilient land, rich in human kindness and deeply rooted in its identity. And I believe that anyone who has ever set foot here, who has ever glided along the silvery, silt-laden rivers, will carry within their heart a piece of Ca Mau's rivers and waterways, an unforgettable memory...
Oh, Ca Mau! Your rivers and waters are so full of love...
Memoirs of Dao Minh Tuan
Source: https://baocamau.vn/song-nuoc-ca-mau-trong-toi-a39005.html
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