I still remember, in the late 70s of the last century, the first time I set foot in Ca Mau , when the dawn had just broken, dyeing the surface of the Ganh Hao River golden. Small wooden boats glided gently on the water, the sound of the boat's engine mixed with the sound of waves lapping against the boat's side like an endless homeland song. The river here is not only a means of transportation but also a place to tell many life stories, from offshore fishing trips to bustling floating markets. Ca Mau people live on the river, make friends with the river, and it seems that in each drop of sparkling water is a long story about resilience and love of life.
Phung Hiep canal in the heart of Ca Mau city. Photo: NHAT MINH
Ca Mau has a dense system of rivers and canals, like blood vessels that nourish the fertile alluvial land. Large rivers such as Ong Doc River, Bay Hap River, or Cua Lon River are not only trade routes but also places that preserve the cultural memories of the people. I once sat on a sampan, gliding through small canals winding through mangrove forests. On both banks, rows of green mangrove trees stretched their roots down to the water surface like soldiers guarding the flow of time. Occasionally a fish swished its tail, causing ripples on the water surface, or the chirping of birds from the foliage made my heart drift to a peaceful place.
Ca Mau's rivers are not only beautiful in their wildness but also in the liveliness of the people here. Ca Mau's floating market, once like the floating markets on Ganh Hao or Trem rivers, is a typical image of the river culture of the West. Boats loaded with goods, from sweet fruits to fresh fish that have just been caught, bustling back and forth. The voices of buyers and sellers, the cheerful laughter echoing in the middle of the river, like a vivid picture of making a living and simple joy. I once heard an old woman selling fruit on a boat say that her whole life has been attached to the river, from when she was a young girl rowing a boat until now her hair has turned white. "The river gives me fish, I give the river six vọng cổ verses...", she smiled, a smile as sincere as the vast river itself.
But the rivers of Ca Mau do not only have peaceful days. This Cape, which is adjacent to the sea, also has to face the wrath of nature. Storms from offshore, days when saltwater encroaches and makes the fields dry, are no small challenge for the people here. I have witnessed Ca Mau fishermen, with sunburned skin and calloused hands, still persistently clinging to the river and the sea. They say that the river is their mother, and despite its harshness, it always protects and nurtures them. It is this harshness that has forged the character of the Ca Mau people: resilient, generous and full of affection.
Ca Mau Cape River. Photo: NHAT MINH
Ca Mau's rivers and streams are also home to unique cultural features. The folk songs, antiphonal songs on the river, festivals such as Nghinh Ong or the Mieu Ba worship ceremony, are all associated with the water. I once attended a Mieu Ba worship ceremony in Tan An commune, where people released small paper boats into the river, carrying prayers for a peaceful harvest and a full hold of fish and shrimp. Looking at the flickering candles floating on the water, I felt the sacredness and strong faith of people in the river - their friend and mother.
It is impossible to talk about the rivers of Ca Mau without mentioning the mangrove forests, where the river and the sea meet. Mui Ca Mau National Park, with its vast mangrove forests, is a testament to the wonders of nature. Sailing through the small canals, I felt like I was lost in another world , where there was only the sound of the wind blowing through the leaves, the sound of the water gurgling and the salty smell of the sea. Crabs and fish hiding under the forest canopy, flocks of migratory birds flying in the sky, all creating a rich ecosystem with the river as the center.
Composite hulls are a popular means of transport in the Ca Mau river region. Photo: LAM DOI
The rivers of Ca Mau are also an endless source of inspiration for poetry, music and painting... For me, every time I return to Ca Mau, sitting by the river, watching the sunset, my heart is filled with an indescribable nostalgia. The shimmering color of the river water, reflecting the evening sunlight, is like a reminder that, no matter where I go, this land is always waiting for me to return.
The rivers of Ca Mau, therefore, are not only natural landscapes but also a part of the flesh and blood of the people here. It is the origin of life, a place to preserve memories and a place to nurture dreams. Although time passes, the world changes, the rivers in Ca Mau still flow, still quietly telling the story of a resilient land, rich in humanity and imbued with identity. And I believe, anyone who has ever set foot here, ever gliding on the silvery river of alluvium will carry in their hearts a piece of the rivers of Ca Mau, like an unforgettable memory...
Oh Ca Mau! Oh, the river is full of love...
Diary of Dao Minh Tuan
Source: https://baocamau.vn/song-nuoc-ca-mau-trong-toi-a39005.html
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