A hundred years of fragrant longan

In early May of the lunar calendar, I returned to the orchards of My Duc commune in Khanh Hoa province to relive some childhood memories. There, the sweet fragrance of clusters of longan fruit swaying in the summer midday sun permeated the air.

The first lychees of the season are cool, sweet, and evoke the warmth of home. Photo: THANH TIEN

On the weekend, I returned to visit my grandfather in his familiar garden. I was greeted by the same frail old man, his eyes squinting and his hair white with age. Despite being 90 years old, my grandfather still diligently works in the garden every morning and evening. For him, the longan orchard is not just a material possession; it's a friend that has accompanied him through countless years of his life. "The land and gardens were left to me by my grandparents; no matter where I go, I'll always return to this place. I especially cherish the My Duc longan trees behind the house; some are nearly 60 or 70 years old," my grandfather confided.

My grandfather, with his wrinkled hands stroking the rough, gnarled branches of each longan tree, mentally calculated the time it had been growing. He often said that it was the renowned My Duc longan variety that had built the brand of the My Duc - Khanh Hoa orchards for hundreds of years.

For me, the longan orchards of My Duc are an indispensable part of my childhood. In those early days, barefoot and without much enjoyment, country kids rarely had fancy treats. We were always satisfied with just the local fruits and cakes. Therefore, we eagerly awaited and longed for the longan season.

In the third lunar month, the longan trees begin to bloom. Clusters of white blossoms emit a delicate fragrance as evening falls. The children then begin to notice, because we know the longan season is approaching. At that time, the adults are also busy with various tasks, from preparing nets to fence the longan trees, to rearranging the bamboo cages used to cover the large bunches of longan, protecting them from bats.

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During summer vacation, we would often gather under the old longan tree with all sorts of games: jump rope, blindfolded tag, hide-and-seek, building huts… Laughter, squabbles, and teasing echoed through the garden at midday. Sometimes, the adults had to intervene with a stick, making the whole group scatter in all directions!

By the fifth lunar month, the heavy rains arrive. The longan fruits, nurtured by the sun and rain, have become plump and round, a delightful sight. Their fragrance permeates the entire garden, especially after the rains. The children gaze at the juicy longan clusters with longing eyes, but dare not touch them. Because if the adults find out, they'll get a good beating!

Then the longan ripened. Grandma picked the first bunches of longan in the season and respectfully placed them on the ancestral altar. That's how people in the countryside are; they always offer the delicious food to their ancestors first, and then let their descendants enjoy the rest. By June, the longan bunches were heavy with fruit, their fragrance filling the air. The children started playing mischievous pranks, stealing the fruit and sharing it. Some would get punished and cry, but the next day they'd be grinning from ear to ear again, going back to their mischief with their friends. Actually, it was because we were just having fun and our eyes were "hungry for the sight," because in the old days, every household in this orchard region had one or two longan trees for their children to eat, so there was rarely any shortage.

Even now, my grandfather still maintains the tradition of picking the first bunches of longan fruit of the season to offer to our ancestors. While he's at it, he sets aside a bunch for my family as a gift, and it has to be authentic My Duc longan. That taste remains unchanged to me, even after several decades. Watching my ten-year-old son suck on those ripe longan fruits, his cheeks bulging, reminds me of myself in the past.

At 40, I've traveled to many places and enjoyed many delicious dishes, but the taste of my hometown's longan remains something familiar and dear to me. Sitting with my grandfather over a cup of tea at noon, listening to his life stories, I cherish those moments even more. Every time I return, I see him thinner, his back hunched over by the weight of time. However, he still goes to the garden every day to weed and tend to the old My Duc longan trees as if they were his lifelong friends.

Now, my grandparents' garden mainly grows the longan variety known as "xuong" due to its popularity and high yield. Many people come to the garden to weigh the fruit and then sell it along the highway. Travelers stop to buy it, still praising the flavor that embodies the sweet, cool, alluvial soil of My Duc - Khanh Hoa. While the garden owners still harvest and sell My Duc longan, the quantity is very limited, as each garden only has a few trees left. Currently, this variety is being restored and has been widely propagated in recent years.

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For me, My Duc longan remains an irreplaceable delicacy, linked to memories from my childhood. Therefore, I often return to the orchards during the longan season to find peace after so much pressure and change in life. And most importantly, there I still find my simple grandfather and the scent of centuries-old longan in his familiar garden!

THANH TIEN

Source: https://baoangiang.com.vn/tram-nam-huong-nhan-a489786.html