Ao Dai - Vietnam's cultural 'passport'

Having evolved over more than three centuries, the ao dai is not only a traditional garment but has become a distinctive cultural symbol of the Vietnamese people. From the five-panel ao dai of the Nguyen dynasty to modern, innovative designs, from schoolyards and festivals to international runways, this ao dai silently carries the soul of Vietnam to the world. In the journey of integration, the ao dai is being recognized as a cultural "passport," representing the identity, pride, and aspiration to position Vietnam on the global cultural map.

A symbol of national identity

The Vietnamese ao dai is the culmination of history, aesthetics, and national spirit. According to documents from the Department of Fine Arts, Photography, and Exhibitions, the ao dai's predecessor was the five-panel, high-necked ao dai, which originated during the reign of Lord Nguyen Phuc Khoat in the 18th century. In the context of the Southern region establishing its own identity, Lord Nguyen laid the foundation for clothing reform, creating the initial form of the ao dai. When the Nguyen dynasty unified the country in 1802, the court continued to inherit and develop this garment. Between 1836 and 1837, Emperor Minh Mang implemented nationwide clothing reforms, contributing to the widespread popularity of the ao dai and making it a familiar image in social life.

The traditional five-panel dress (áo ngũ thân) has a structure of five panels symbolizing the five virtues in Eastern philosophy, representing the concepts of benevolence, righteousness, propriety, wisdom, and trustworthiness. This garment is made for both men and women, differing only in some details such as the lower neckline and narrower sleeves for women. This simple yet dignified style reflects the refined lifestyle of ancient Vietnamese people. Over time, along with historical changes and cultural exchange, the áo dài has gradually changed to suit modern life, but its core spirit has been preserved.

A significant turning point occurred in the early 1930s when artist Nguyen Cat Tuong initiated a movement to modernize the traditional ao dai (Vietnamese long dress). His Lemur ao dai design, published in the Phong Hoa newspaper in 1934, created a new wave in contemporary society. He designed a more streamlined, body-hugging ao dai that accentuated the female figure, incorporating elements such as puffed sleeves, lotus-leaf collars, and narrower skirts, embodying a modern spirit while retaining East Asian characteristics. The "Great Dictionary of World Famous People," published by Japan in 2013, recognizes him as the initiator of the modernization of traditional Vietnamese women's clothing, having a significant influence on modern ao dai design.

However, it is regrettable that when artist Nguyen Cat Tuong passed away at the age of 34, his children did not continue his work and did not register intellectual property rights for the Lemur design. This lack of a clear copyright for the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) remains unresolved to this day. In the context of deep integration, where national identity is increasingly important, the lack of an official international protection mechanism for the ao dai is something that needs serious consideration. The ao dai is not only beautiful in its form but also rich in symbolic value. Closely fitted to the body, with a high collar and two soft, flowing panels, the ao dai is both modest and accentuates the curves of Vietnamese women. Poet Xuan Dieu once wrote, "Those delicate silk panels have enveloped my soul throughout my life." This line speaks to the longing of generations for the graceful and gentle beauty of the ao dai.

Professor Tran Lam Bien affirmed that the ao dai is a distinctive image of Vietnam, first designed by Vietnamese people. This assertion not only has academic value but also confirms cultural sovereignty . Therefore, the ao dai is not simply clothing, but a symbol of national identity.

We hope for a Vietnamese Ao Dai Day. (Photo: Hoa Nguyen)

Over the past two decades, the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) has increasingly established itself on the world fashion map. A major contributor to this journey is designer Minh Hanh, known as the "Ambassador of the Ao Dai." Born in 1961 in Gia Lai, with roots in Hue, she not only collects and promotes the ao dai but also constantly innovates, combining ethnic motifs and traditional materials with a modern spirit. According to her, the ao dai is "a language that needs no translation." Through her collections showcased both domestically and internationally, she has helped elevate the ao dai from a national costume into a cultural symbol with international influence.

Besides Minh Hạnh, there are many other passionate ao dai designers such as Lan Hương, Đức Hùng, Đỗ Trịnh Hoài Nam, Võ Việt Chung, Sĩ Hoàng, Thuận Việt… They have brought the ao dai to international runways, combining hand embroidery, silk painting, brocade weaving, and incorporating lotus flowers, bronze drums, and folk motifs into each design, creating collections of global caliber.

Beyond the runway, the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) is also present in cultural diplomacy activities. Images of female delegates, artists, and wives of heads of state wearing ao dai at international forums have left a strong impression. Without lengthy introductions, the dress itself tells the story of an elegant, compassionate, and traditionally rich Vietnam.

I hope there will be a Vietnamese Ao Dai Day.

In recent years, the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) has not only been present in daily life but has also been celebrated through many large-scale events. These include the annual Ho Chi Minh City Ao Dai Festival, which attracts hundreds of designers, artists, and the general public; the Hanoi Tourism Ao Dai Festival, which connects the ao dai with promoting the capital city as a tourist destination; and programs called "Vietnam Ao Dai Week," launched by various organizations and associations to encourage women to wear the ao dai on special occasions. These activities create a vibrant atmosphere, contributing to the widespread dissemination of the ao dai's image within the community and in international media.

Notably, since May 15, 2016, May 15th has been recognized as Ao Dai Day in California (USA). This event is not only a source of pride for the Vietnamese diaspora but also affirms the vitality of Vietnamese culture abroad. The Ao Dai being celebrated overseas shows that this symbol has transcended national boundaries to become a shared spiritual asset of the international community that loves Vietnam.

However, it is evident that despite numerous festivals and weeks dedicated to celebrating the ao dai, such as the Ao Dai Week organized by the Vietnam Women's Union, the Ho Chi Minh City Ao Dai Festival, and the Hanoi Ao Dai - Tourism Festival, Vietnam still lacks an officially recognized national Ao Dai Day. The absence of a symbolic national landmark leaves the journey of establishing the ao dai as the national costume incomplete.

Establishing a "Vietnamese Ao Dai Day" through an official decision is not only significant in honoring the traditional Vietnamese dress, but also represents a strategic step in asserting cultural sovereignty, strengthening the national brand, and creating a solid legal foundation for the dress to truly become a cultural "passport" of Vietnam on the international stage.

The designers also expressed their hope that the authorities would soon register the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) for protection at international intellectual property organizations. In the context of increasingly fierce cultural competition, proactively protecting traditional symbols is essential. The ao dai not only possesses aesthetic value but also represents a spiritual heritage nurtured through many generations.

In each flowing dress, there is a story of history, of people, and of the aspiration for integration without assimilation. (Photo: Khieu Minh)

The question of when the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) will have a national day of honor remains open. An official day dedicated to the ao dai would not only be a ceremonial event but also an opportunity to educate the younger generation about the history and cultural values ​​of the nation. When each student understands the origins of the five-panel ao dai, knows about the reforms of Lord Nguyen Phuc Khoat and King Minh Mang, or the innovative role of Nguyen Cat Tuong, they will feel even more proud to wear this traditional garment.

In the age of the cultural industry, every symbol has economic and diplomatic value. Japan promotes the kimono, South Korea promotes the hanbok, and India promotes the sari as national symbols. Vietnam can absolutely position the ao dai as a key cultural brand. When properly protected and promoted, the ao dai will contribute to boosting tourism, fashion, fine arts, and many other creative industries.

The ao dai has weathered the vicissitudes of history, from the feudal court to the modern era, from old black-and-white photographs to dazzling runways. Regardless of the circumstances, this garment has retained its elegant beauty and spiritual depth. It is this very quality that makes the ao dai a special "passport" of Vietnam.

When every Vietnamese person cherishes the traditional ao dai, when artists continue to create based on historical understanding, and when authorities have a clear strategy for protection and promotion, the ao dai will continue its enduring journey. This is not just the journey of a garment, but the journey of Vietnamese identity in a globalized world.

Therefore, the ao dai is not only a preserved past but also an unfolding future. In each flowing garment, there is a story of history, of people, and of the aspiration for integration without assimilation. And when the world mentions Vietnam with the image of the graceful ao dai, we can believe that this cultural "passport" has been and is fulfilling its mission, carrying the Vietnamese spirit far and wide while retaining its essence.

To honor traditional beauty, awaken national pride, and spread the image of the modern Vietnamese woman – confident, responsible, compassionate, creative – and in anticipation of the 116th anniversary of International Women's Day (March 8, 1910 - March 8, 2026), the 1986th anniversary of the Hai Ba Trung Uprising, and to welcome the election of deputies to the 16th National Assembly and People's Councils at all levels for the 2026-2031 term, the Presidium of the Central Committee of the Vietnam Women's Union is launching the "Ao Dai Week" in 2026 nationwide from March 1 to March 8, 2026.

On this occasion, the Trade Union of Vietnam Law Newspaper launched the "Charming Vietnamese Law 2026" photo contest for female officials, reporters, editors, and staff working at Vietnam Law Newspaper.

Source: https://baophapluat.vn/ao-dai-tam-ho-chieu-van-hoa-viet.html