The West Garden is shrouded in mist.

The Tay Vien hot springs have great potential for tourism development but have remained undeveloped for many years. Photo: QT

Paradise

A plume of smoke rising from the West Garden hot springs creates a thin mist that blankets the hillsides.

For a long time, Tay Vien – “the garden in the west” – has been known as a paradise at the foot of Mount Chua. The ecosystem of this area holds many interesting things.

If you leisurely stroll along the other side of Le Pass, the Cool Stream flows gently, then descending the pass on this side, you'll encounter a hot spring that bubbles day and night.
Tay Vien hot springs are located only about 200 meters from the DT611 road. Whether in winter or summer, the water here boils at 60-70 degrees Celsius.

Studies and surveys from regulatory agencies and scientists have long confirmed that the water source in Tay Vien contains many micronutrients beneficial to human health.

Many legends surround the formation of this hot spring. But generations of villagers have passed down the story of the spring's origin, which stems from two divine buffaloes and their journey from the time they "descended to earth" until their death.

Vũng Bà (part of the Tây Viên hot springs). Photo: QT

The villagers believe that from the two sacred buffalo tombs, water spouts have emerged from the earth, forming two pools of crystal-clear water that emit thick steam.

The legend became so widely known that later, when the two hot springs were built, the villagers also named them Vũng Ông and Vũng Bà. Interestingly, Vũng Ông's pool was built in a hexagonal shape, while Vũng Bà's pool has a gentle oval shape.

Although it's only a later reconstruction, this image reminds us of traces of the ancient Champa civilization. It's quite possible, considering that beyond the Phuong Ranh pass, Linga and Yoni are important landmarks in the My Son temple complex (Duy Phu commune, Duy Xuyen district) – representing the fertility beliefs of the Cham people, seeking the flourishing of all things.

Be patient... wait

Mr. Nguyen Hai (70 years old, residing in Tay Vien village) recounted: “Before the two hot springs were built, there were two buffalo puddles right there, with boiling water bubbling year-round. And it wasn't just those two puddles; wherever you drilled around here, you'd find hot water bubbling up. The two hot springs were built by a company to extract mineral water, but they've been abandoned for a long time. For now, only the locals have been using them to get water.”

Currently, only locals come to Tay Vien pool to get hot water for bathing. Photo: QT

Another man joked that because West Garden was a paradise, not many people had the chance to set foot there. In fact, about 20 years ago, West Garden's reputation had already caught the attention of investors.

Unfortunately, after receiving investment approval and land use rights from the Provincial People's Committee in 2007, and despite several extensions of the deadline, the promising "million-dollar" tourist resort project remained elusive. It was like a wisp of smoke rising from a hot tub and then vanishing into thin air. In 2020, the project was officially revoked.

The unfinished state of these projects shows that they are quite common. If, in the coastal areas of the province, some stalled projects are likened by the head of the Department of Natural Resources and Environment to potentially spanning four periods of the Land Law, then the development of the Tay Vien hot spring destination is not much different.

Despite having just gone through two periods of upheaval involving the "separation and merger" of the administrative boundaries between Que Son and Nong Son districts, this area has yet to undergo a "new look"...

In the last decade or so, health tourism has begun to boom in response to the demands of modern life. Hot springs are one of nature's gifts that have paved the way for this type of tourism.

Quang Nam province is also pursuing the development of this type of tourism. Looking at neighboring provinces like Thua Thien Hue, Quang Ngai, and Da Nang, they have all "awakened" to branded hot spring destinations that attract a steady stream of visitors year-round.

Awaken the "West Garden"

Returning to the story of Tay Vien, after many years, the road to this "paradise" no longer requires rolling up your trousers and wading through rice paddies. Instead, there's a more decent dirt road, although it's still muddy when it rains. Son Vien commune has cleared the area, installed lights, Wi-Fi, etc., turning Tay Vien into a decent rest stop, albeit only for locals.

The government's plans for West Garden will encompass a much larger area than the current situation, with a focus on ecotourism, exploration, and healing.

There have been proposals to develop golf tourism here, but they were rejected due to concerns about the impact on the ecosystem. The Tay Vien - Nui Chua area will be planned into several sub-zones, attracting investment, not limited to one or more investors, but focusing on creating sustainable development momentum for the land and people of this region.

Vũng Ông (part of the Tây Viên hot springs) was built a long time ago but has now been abandoned. Photo: QT

Ms. Nguyen Thi Thu Thuy, Vice Chairman of the People's Committee of Nong Son district, said: "Tay Vien destination has real tourism development potential because it possesses unique and distinctive values. Proof of this is that after the previous project was canceled, despite being affected by the pandemic, the district has continuously welcomed 5-7 investors to conduct surveys."

Some units stopped at the stage of gathering information and data, but there were also units that wholeheartedly developed a comprehensive development plan for this area, with a proposed area of up to 329 hectares, including the Nui Chua ecosystem, and it is currently in the research and evaluation phase.”

For a long time, the tourism industry has been planning strategies to divert tourists away from My Son to the area on the other side of Phuong Ranh Pass. Since 2019, the Quang Nam Tourism Association has proposed expanding tourism spaces and retaining tourists for longer periods through various tourism models. This could include trekking and hiking (short, less challenging walking tours) in the Tay Vien - Nui Chua hot spring area...

Connecting tourist centers from the downstream towards Nong Son is not just about geographical proximity. More importantly, it's about continuing the flow of history and piecing together fragments of Champa culture along the path "from source to sea."

A regional tourism arc in Nong Son has also been outlined by the management agency, encompassing the Thu Bon Goddess Temple, Dai Binh ecological village, Tay Vien - Nui Chua, Hon Kem Da Dung, and the Nong Son Elephant Species and Habitat Conservation Area…

Recognizing our concerns about future changes to the administrative boundaries of this area, Ms. Nguyen Thi Thu Thuy stated: "Even if the district is merged in the future, the development of tourism in Tay Vien - Nui Chua will continue. Nong Son has determined that, in addition to its advantages in agriculture and forestry, ecotourism and community-based tourism will remain a crucial sector for boosting the local economy and, especially, reducing poverty for residents. Therefore, the locality will make every effort regardless of the stage."

There's still a long way from idea to reality. But nevertheless, the plans still offer some hope...

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