The brocade loincloth of Hrê men

( Quang Ngai Newspaper) - The loincloth is one of the traditional garments of men of ethnic groups in the Truong Son - Central Highlands region in general and Hre men in particular. The loincloth is not just an ordinary product, but also a spiritual product through which weavers express their talent, aesthetic sense, intelligence, creativity, and work ethic.

Closely connected with nature

A loincloth is a long piece of cloth used to cover the lower body of a man, wrapped around the waist, with two long strips hanging down in front and behind. In the past, the Hrê people knew how to use tree bark to make clothing to cover their bodies and keep warm. The bark was peeled into sheets, then pounded with a wooden mallet, soaked in water to dissolve the core, leaving the fibers which were then dried, stripped into threads, and woven. Loincloths made from tree bark were quite rough, with red borders on both sides and tassels at both ends. Later, the Hrê people used cotton to weave fabric, and the loincloths were refined, adding colors and patterns to make them more beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.

The loincloth is hand-woven using primarily cotton (pai). The main colors of the loincloth are black (dyed with crushed ghinggu plant boiled with rice flour), red (dyed with the bark of the păhdếh tree boiled to red, with a little lime powder added), and the natural white color of the cotton.

Traditional clothing of the Hrê people in Ba Tơ district. Photo: YHOA

According to the animistic beliefs of the Hrê people, the patterns on the loincloth must be symmetrically arranged and balanced. The symbolic patterns are primarily connected to nature, mountains and forests, human life, the universe, and the history and culture of the ethnic group, ranging from parallel colored bands to stylized geometric patterns such as isosceles triangles and squares arranged side by side. The Hrê believe that black and white represent earth and water, while red represents deities. The harmonious blend of these three colors in each detail makes the loincloth more vibrant and enhances the wearer's strength.

The loincloth of the Hrê people.

Typically, the patterns on a Hrê man's loincloth feature decorative bands, including: the Troang Keh motif (patterns placed within squares); the Kơléh motif, meaning hook; the Riăngkol motif, named after a type of woody plant with white flowers that bloom in spring; the Riăng motif, meaning flower, stylized with evenly spaced squares; the K'rái motif, meaning comb teeth, represented by short, parallel, evenly spaced black vertical lines forming a comb shape; the Loang k'lăh motif, stylized with half-black, half-white triangles and squares resembling flowers, leaves, and tree trunks; the Zềnh cọ motif, meaning dog footprints; and the Kế r'vênh motif, meaning swirling water, with two or three zigzag lines representing waves. The Tanh motif, meaning weaving, consists of patterns and designs from the daily lives of the Hrê people. They have been familiar with these patterns since they sat by the loom watching their grandmothers and mothers weave.

The talent of Hrê women

A beautiful brocade fabric must have many patterns combined with balanced colors, gentle and well-proportioned lines, and no flaws. Thanks to the skillful and graceful hands of Hrê women, the patterns are stylized and expressed through distinctive designs with many colors, creating loincloths that are more durable, beautiful, and have clearer colors.

There are two types of loincloths (kpen/hpen): The smaller type, called "Hpen dham," is for middle-aged and young people. It is approximately 18cm wide and 4.5m - 5m long, with simple, gentle patterns. The body of the loincloth is black with three white stripes down the middle and two red stripes along the edges. The two ends of the loincloth have five less distinct patterns, with tassels about 15cm long. The larger type, called "Hpen vroang," is for the elderly and those who are more affluent . It is approximately 20cm wide and 5m - 5.5m long. The body of the loincloth is black with three white stripes down the middle and two red stripes along the edges, similar to the hpen dham but larger. The two ends of the loincloth have seven colorful patterns with tassels about 20cm long.

The Hrê people in Ba Tơ district perform a gong-playing demonstration. Photo: DUC PHONG

Today, although the Hrê people do not require everyone, including shamans, men, women, and teenagers, to wear traditional brocade clothing during festivals, many still prefer it. They believe that wearing brocade brings them closer to nature, to the universe, and to the spirits. Therefore, the loincloth, part of the traditional attire for men, is considered more beautiful and respected, and brings pride to their wives and children. If the loincloth is woven by the wife herself, everyone in the village will praise her for her weaving and embroidery skills, her diligence, and her greater respect.

For generations, Hrê women have endured many hardships. They are not only responsible for caring for their families, but also toil in the fields to provide for their families. Despite their busy lives, they still make time to set out their looms and weave. Experienced weavers teach their children, relatives, and neighbors, considering it an honor for a woman to weave. Those who are skilled weavers and produce many products are more loved by their families, and even after marriage, they are respected and cherished by their husbands' families.

VO MINH TUAN

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Source: https://baoquangngai.vn/van-hoa/202404/chiec-kho-tho-cam-cua-dan-ong-hre-b6b4f52/