Bustling winter season

Bustling stretch of river

Standing on the embankment of the Tien River in Tan Chau ward, looking into the distance, small boats bob gently on the waves. On the 25th day of the 10th lunar month, the last day of the flood season, the final schools of fish swim back to the river, ending their three-month migration to the flooded fields. For a long time, the Tien River has been the first channel of the majestic Mekong River, irrigating the Mekong Delta. Nature has generously bestowed a large abundance of aquatic life at the headwaters. Standing on the embankment and looking out at the Tien River, we felt that this river was wider than the Hau River, with a swift current and bustling boats and canoes passing back and forth.

Locals select fish to sell to small traders. Photo: THANH CHINH

Both upstream and downstream of this section of the river have large sandbars, so the water flows into this area in abundance, creating a very strong current. When fish swim here, they are fascinated by the swirling water and linger in this area. Here, day and night, more than 10 small boats belonging to local people fish. Especially on days when the tide is high, this deep section of the river has large boats with giant nets attached to the bow to scoop up fish. If you happen to visit during the fish migration season, you will see fishermen sitting on boats, lowering their large nets deep into the riverbed to catch fish downstream. On a good day, each boat harvests 400-500 kg of fish, mostly large, white, finger-sized fish, jumping and wriggling on the nets.

Around midday, Ms. Nguyen Thi Tham sat by the riverbank displaying a pile of snakehead fish and carp she had just caught from the deep river. Customers passing by would inquire about buying them, and within a few minutes, all the fish were sold. Ms. Tham explained that a few days ago, snakehead fish appeared in abundance, and her husband sold everything he caught. With the arrival of the winter winds, the snakehead fish are larger and plumper, known locally as "old snakehead fish," and can be used in various dishes. The larger the fish, the harder its bones, so people buy them to prepare braised dishes or grill them over charcoal. Ms. Tran Thi Thu Thuy meticulously selected 1kg of snakehead fish, then handed it to Ms. Tham to weigh, each kilogram costing 30,000 dong. Ms. Thuy explained that besides braising or grilling, snakehead fish can be ground into a paste and stuffed into bitter melon, which is incredibly delicious.

Fish in the upstream areas are abundant, so prices are cheaper compared to city markets. When there are many small fish (likely referring to an abalone species), traders buy them in bulk to make fish sauce at only 15,000 VND/kg. Ms. Thuy explained: "Today is the weekend, so I bought some small fish to grill over charcoal and dip in tamarind fish sauce, served with fresh vegetables for my children to enjoy. Small fish and carp seem to be available here almost every day." In the upstream areas, nature generously provides the people with an abundance of fish and shrimp, a nutritious food source that has sustained countless generations.

The joy of harvesting fish.

Traveling from Tan Chau ward to Vinh Xuong commune, passing through various hamlets, one can see people displaying baskets of dried freshwater fish drying in their yards, looking very appetizing. The fish they dry include snakehead fish, carp, catfish, tilapia, eel, and other species. Locals say that many rice fields have dried up, so everyone is taking advantage of the opportunity to catch fish to sell or to make dried fish or fish sauce to eat throughout the year. These dried fish, without artificial coloring, are wrapped in bags and kept in the refrigerator to be eaten gradually. “In the days leading up to Tet, when my children and grandchildren come home and are tired of meat, I fry or steam the dried fish, and they eat it with relish. I also save these dried fish to offer guests throughout the three days of Tet,” Mr. Tran Van Long said with a smile.

Late-season snakehead fish. Photo: THANH CHINH

From the upstream commune of Vinh Xuong, we returned to Chau Doc bridge as midday approached. At this time of year, at the river confluence, the locals were bustling about catching fish. The fish here are similar to those on the Tien River, mainly purebred snakehead fish, not mixed with any other species. Surprisingly, despite the vastness of the river, the locals seem to be able to pinpoint where the fish are swimming. We saw fishermen revving their engines, pushing their small boats through the water towards the colorful floating villages, then plunging their long nets, over 8 meters in length, deep into the riverbed. Afterward, they revved their engines, slowly pushing the nets downstream along the Hau River.

In this particular stretch of river, people rush back and forth fishing, and when they lift their nets, they're met with leaping, wriggling fish. The joy of the people is clearly visible on the surface of the Mekong River. To date, Mr. Nguyen Van Huong (65 years old) in Vinh Hau commune has made a living from fishing during the flood season for over 30 years. Every year, around the beginning of October in the lunar calendar, Mr. Huong mends his nets and seals his boat, preparing to scoop up fish on the river. Mr. Huong says that the Chau Doc river junction is where there are many fish. At this time, when the fields are dry, the fish swim here, encountering swirling currents and gathering in schools to welcome the flow, so people know that this spot always has fish.

Mr. Huong and the locals here catch hundreds of kilograms of snakehead fish every day to sell to traders who make fish sauce. “This season, snakehead fish are very cheap. Wholesalers buy them for 15,000 - 20,000 VND/kg to make fish sauce. The fish are large this season, so they make very delicious fish sauce. In Chau Doc, the snakehead fish sauce making business is unparalleled, thanks to which the locals have a market for their fish. We try to catch them until the end of October in the lunar calendar, then everyone can come ashore, hoping to earn millions of dong to celebrate Tet,” Mr. Huong expressed.

The sun rose above the horizon, the gentle border sunshine soft, the east wind lightly caressing the rippling water, and the locals diligently worked their boats, scooping up fish in the hope of earning a decent income. That's the life of a fisherman: year-round, they drift along the river, searching for deep waters to fish for a living.

THANH CHINH

Source: https://baoangiang.com.vn/chon-ron-mua-ca-gio-dong-a470394.html