CRISPY AND FRAGRANT RICE CAKE
In early October, when the People's Committee of Hoa Phong commune held a ceremony to announce the decision recognizing the craft of making Tuy Loan rice paper as a national intangible cultural heritage, among the stories of those dedicated to the craft, people mentioned Mrs. Dang Thi Tuy Phong, an 85-year-old woman who has spent more than half her life making these rice paper sheets. She is the most regular, longest-serving, and most skilled worker in Tuy Loan. As Tet (Lunar New Year) approaches, Mrs. Tuy Phong is busy fulfilling orders for rice paper to be shipped throughout the country.
Mrs. Dang Thi Tuy Phong diligently makes rice paper by the fire.
"Making rice paper is a generational craft in Tuy Loan village. Like many people in the village, I started making rice paper to help my family when I was a little older," said Mrs. Tuy Phong, spreading batter onto the mold as she spoke. She doesn't remember exactly when she started, but it's clear that it was after 1975, when she made rice paper her livelihood. Over the past 50 years, despite technological advancements that could speed up the process, the people of Tuy Loan have maintained their traditional, entirely handcrafted method. Perhaps that's why the flavor of Tuy Loan rice paper is unmistakable.
Mr. Tuy Phong said that making beautiful, perfectly round rice paper sheets depends on the skillful hands of the artisan; but creating the distinctive flavor of the sheet lies in the selection and processing of ingredients. To make the rice paper crispy and delicious, the rice used is 13/2 rice grown by farmers in the village. It's a type of rice that's considered hard to the point of breaking teeth when cooked, but when milled and filtered to make the rice paper, it quickly thickens and becomes smooth and chewy when molded. "Once I've selected good rice, I soak it overnight so that I have the raw material to mill into flour the next morning. After milling, I filter out the husks to make the sheet look better when molded," Mr. Tuy Phong said.
Drying rice paper over hot coals is a unique way of preparing rice paper in Tuy Loan.
Every baker at Tuy Loan knows this step by heart. To make the famous baked rice paper, the artisan must mix five spices: fish sauce, salt, sugar, sesame seeds, and garlic (or ginger). The exact recipe is a secret of each baker. With someone as experienced as Mr. Tuy Phong, the rice paper he makes is always a favorite among customers.
PRESERVING THE SOUL OF THE ANCIENT VILLAGE
Despite having many fuel options, for generations, the rice paper makers of Tuy Loan have only used charcoal, known for its strong, long-lasting heat. Unlike other rice paper-making villages nationwide, the artisans in Tuy Loan do not dry the rice paper in the sun. Instead, the freshly made rice paper is immediately placed on a giant, basket-shaped rack (about 3 meters in diameter), with glowing charcoal spread evenly underneath. Therefore, even in the days leading up to Tet (Lunar New Year), no matter how unpredictable the weather in Da Nang is, rice paper makers like Mr. Tuy Phong don't worry because the finished rice paper only needs to be placed on the rack, turned over for 3 hours, and it's dry and ready for packaging.
"To prevent the rice paper from getting moldy, you have to wait until it turns slightly yellow; only then will it dry evenly. Absolutely do not press it to dry quickly," she said, noticing steam rising from the pot, and quickly using a bamboo chopstick to scoop some out. "This job requires staying up late and waking up early; it's very hard work to make a profit. But if you're diligent and persistent, you can make a living. On average, my mother and I use about 2 angs of rice (60 cans of rice) each day, producing about 210 rice papers (40-50 cm in diameter). Currently, the selling price is around 220,000 - 270,000 VND per 10 pieces," she said.
Rice paper is an indispensable dish during ancestral commemorations, festivals, and other celebrations in the village. Especially at the Tuy Loan village temple festival (the 9th and 10th of the first lunar month), rice paper is offered to the altar to honor the ancestors who pioneered the village 500 years ago. Anyone who has tasted a piece of Tuy Loan rice paper will surely never forget its crisp sound, the nutty flavor of rice mixed with the richness of sesame seeds, and the occasional fragrant spiciness of ginger and garlic… Tuy Loan rice paper can be broken into small pieces to scoop up salads or used as a filling for other dishes. Those from Quang Nam living far from home often feel nostalgic for the Tuy Loan rice paper served with their bowl of Quang Nam noodles… Tuy Loan rice paper has become a popular local gift that many people seek out and give to each other.
Occasionally, Mrs. Tuy Phong and her daughter's rice paper making workshop welcomes groups of students and tourists who come to visit and experience the craft. Seeing these strangers engrossed in making the rice paper, she is very happy. She confided that, after decades in the business, her greatest happiness is having her daughter continue the tradition, working alongside her every day to make rice paper. "This craft is less common now, so I'm willing to pass on my skills to anyone who wants to learn, so that Tuy Loan rice paper will remain a memorable dish for generations to come..." she said with a toothless smile. (to be continued)
Valuable capital for tourism development
According to Cao Tri Dung, Chairman of the Da Nang Tourism Association, foreign tourists, especially those from Europe, Australia, and the United States, are very interested in learning about local culture. Therefore, the Tuy Loan rice paper making craft, along with six other national intangible cultural heritage sites, is a valuable asset for Da Nang to combine with other destinations to develop unique tourism products. Da Nang should consider forming a river tourism route to bring tourists to visit and experience the Tuy Loan rice paper making village, combined with visits to village communal houses, ancient houses, experiencing the La Huong vegetable village, eating Quang noodles, listening to traditional folk singing, etc.
Source: https://thanhnien.vn/nhat-nghe-tinh-de-nhat-banh-trang-tuy-loan-185241223231909471.htm
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