After years of seemingly disappearing from the Vietnamese culinary map, this beautiful pastry has made a spectacular "revival" in recent years. People are starting to remember its name, and the way traditional pastry artisans patiently roll the pliable dough into rectangular pieces, similar to banh hoi (rice noodle cake) but not pressed with a mold; instead, it is rolled entirely by hand.
A little-known cake
Bánh nghệ is a traditional cake from Central and Southern Vietnam with a history of over half a century. It doesn't originate from the Mekong Delta but has its roots in Nghe An province . The cake spread from Nghe An throughout the South and Mekong Delta, resulting in many variations.
The name "Nghệ cake" is a way to commemorate the cake's origins: a cake from Nghe An province. Many people mistakenly believe the cake is made from turmeric root, but this root from the fertile land has absolutely nothing to do with the cake, which is made entirely from flour: rice flour, glutinous rice flour, and tapioca flour. These three types of flour are mixed with water in a specific ratio to make it easy to shape the cake.
In Central Vietnam, turmeric cakes are mostly shaped by artisans into round, interwoven strands resembling a woven mat. Saigon-style turmeric cakes have an eye-catching pandan leaf green color and a light aroma. However, when turmeric cakes reach Go Cong (formerly Tien Giang province), the shape is completely different, with rectangular pieces of dough interwoven like a bamboo mat. The dough strands are hand-rolled and skillfully shaped on a banana leaf. The cakes are then steamed until translucent, the dough strands soft, smooth, and pliable.
Similar to bánh hỏi (rice vermicelli), bánh nghệ (turmeric rice cake) is served with grilled meat (some places prefer roasted pork), pork skin mixed with roasted rice powder, a garnish of aromatic herbs, and a sweet and sour fish sauce dip. A Saigon-style bánh nghệ platter will have the added aroma of fried onions. Phan Thiết-style bánh nghệ is served with steamed or fried pork sausage, fermented pork roll, and pork cracklings… In Ninh Hòa, bánh nghệ, also known as bánh dây (string cake), is often served alongside bánh hỏi. The cake is topped with a sprinkle of finely chopped chives fried in peanut oil.
Gò Công's turmeric-flavored rice cakes, in particular, have a unique shape and a wider variety of accompaniments: roasted pork, grilled meat, pork skin, Vietnamese sausage, mixed vegetables, pickles, etc.
Reviving turmeric cake
Saigon residents only recently "encountered" bánh nghệ (a type of Vietnamese rice cake), at a culinary event hosted by a large restaurant to promote delicious rice-based dishes across Vietnam. The presence of this traditional cake at such a special event attracted a large number of diners and food connoisseurs. Many were surprised to learn that the cake is even older than they are. Perhaps due to the meticulous preparation involved in making this dish, and the influence of modern culinary trends, the cake has faded into obscurity as the artisans have aged and there are no successors to carry on the craft.
Fortunately, Go Cong turmeric cake still maintains its position in the flow of regional culinary culture. People in the Mekong Delta still favor this dish. Turmeric cake not only beautifully adorns wedding and funeral feasts, but is also a delicious breakfast food for people in Tien Giang. Go Cong turmeric cake occasionally features in local cultural and culinary festivals. Although it hasn't achieved widespread fame, the appearance of this rustic cake has contributed to enriching the traditional cuisine of the Southwest region of Vietnam.
Source: https://baodanang.vn/hoi-sinh-banh-nghe-go-cong-3334311.html
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