A promise of memories
The romantic Khau Vai market is a unique love market with a history spanning over a century. According to legend, the market originated from the love story between Ba, a Nung man, and Ut, a Giay woman. They loved each other deeply, but could not marry due to the strict constraints of their families and the marriage customs of the time. To avoid conflict between the two families, the handsome young man and beautiful young woman had to part ways, returning to their separate lives as arranged by their families. Before parting, they promised to return to Khau Vai on the 27th day of the third lunar month each year to meet again, as a way of preserving their unfinished love.
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| The tossing game remains a unique folk cultural activity in the Khau Vai Love Market festival. |
From that promise, over time, a special market has formed – a place where love is celebrated; couples in love who are not yet married can come to meet their loved ones without being bound or forbidden. Professor Le Hong Ly, President of the Vietnam Folk Arts Association, commented: “The uniqueness of the Khau Vai Love Market lies in the fact that a private love story has been accepted by the community and elevated to a cultural value. The fidelity of two individuals has become a ‘soft institution,’ regulating human behavior, where memories are respected and acknowledged as a natural part of life.”
Amidst the crowds flocking to Khau Vai, there are young couples seeking a new beginning, and also those with graying hair carrying unfulfilled memories. They reminisce, share a cup of strong wine, and let their hearts wander in love songs, intoxicated by the passion of love and wine. Elder Sung Mi Sinh, who has led over 60 market sessions, shared: “People from the highlands come to the love market not to return. We meet to chat and reminisce, then everyone goes back to their own homes, living out their obligations and affection for their families. The love is kept in the heart, and the duty is upheld.”
It is this tolerant way of behaving that gives the market its humanistic depth. A handshake, a glance, a smile, or just a cup of corn wine by the fire… are enough to soothe the longing and anxieties of a long year. And in that space, many encounters begin with a love song, a melodious flute tune amidst the mountains and forests, quietly blossoming into new relationships. All of this has created a unique and distinctive culture of the rocky plateau.
From love market to cultural icon
From a community activity deeply rooted in local life, Khau Vai gradually transcended the image of a traditional market to become a powerful cultural symbol. This allure has become a special "material" in literature and art, a source of inspiration for many artists and writers. Within this context, the poem "Khau Vai" by poet Tran Hoa Binh stands out, vividly depicting the melancholic and nostalgic atmosphere of the highland love market, often recalled through the haunting lines: "Khau Vai is sad as stone / the tears of the elderly are worn on their cheeks." From this work, composer Vi Quoc Hiep set it to music, creating the famous song "Khau Vai - An Old Love Story," contributing to the spread of this century-old love story through music and deepening the cultural beauty of the mountainous region.
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| The Hmong boys and girls at Khau Vai Love Market are accompanied by the rhythmic sounds of the Hmong flute and traditional dances. |
Continuing that theme, the song "Khâu Vai Chợ Tình" (music by Lục Đức Hòa, lyrics by Đinh Trọng Hòa) is deeply narrative in nature, with a lyrical, profound melody and rich imagery. The song not only recreates the landscape of mountains, mist, winding mountain passes, and the rhythm of the market, but also quietly tells the story of encounters between people who are "destined to meet but not to be together." In it, the past is cherished, the present is respected, so that each time "old friends meet again," memories are recalled with tolerance and understanding.
The legend of Khau Vai is also explored in greater narrative depth through the novel "The Love Story of Khau Vai" by Nguyen The Ky, Chairman of the Central Council for Literary and Artistic Theory and Criticism. This is his debut novel, but it is meticulously crafted, transcending familiar narrative motifs and opening up a unique approach to the cultural space and spiritual life of the ethnic minorities in the northern mountainous regions.
Writer Nguyen Van Tho commented that author Nguyen The Ky meticulously crafted "The Love Story of Khau Vai" as a novel with its own unique imprint, opening up a new approach in literature. From folk legends, he constructed a love story rich in humanistic qualities, imbued with emotion and cultural depth. Through the lens of literature, Khau Vai becomes an artistic image rich in material for artists to continue exploring in the flow of contemporary culture.
Preserving living heritage
Over time, Khau Vai has transformed from a small market exclusively for the local people into a cultural space showcasing the diverse cultures of ethnic communities on the rocky plateau. With the development of tourism , the scale of the festival has expanded, featuring many distinctive activities such as courtship singing, folk dancing, traditional games, and ethnic costume performances.
Photographer Ngo Chi Thanh ( Phu Tho ) shared: “Having visited Khau Vai many times, I realize its appeal lies not only in the scenery but also in the depth of human emotions. For photography, this is a rare space, where every glance, every encounter, holds a story.”
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| Offering prayers at the shrines of Ông and Bà in Khâu Vai - a sacred traditional ritual at the Khâu Vai love market. |
Thanks to this allure, the Khau Vai Love Market is increasingly attracting a large number of tourists. In 2025, the market welcomed over 20,000 visitors, a 5-6 fold increase compared to the previous decade. While this increase in visitors creates opportunities to boost the economy, it also poses significant challenges in preserving the heritage value. The rapidly growing demand for services has led to the development of souvenir and food stalls, encroaching on the original pristine space. The trend towards commercialization and theatricalization also risks transforming the love market into a mere tourism product, lacking cultural depth.
Ms. Nguyen Thi Hoai, Deputy Director of the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the province, said: “We have determined that tourism development must go hand in hand with the preservation of cultural heritage. Tourists come to experience and learn, not to change the essence of the market. Therefore, all organized activities are aimed at preserving the original values, ensuring that the people are the creators and practitioners of the culture. Tourism exploitation must also be within permissible limits to avoid eroding the depth of the culture.”
Preserving Khau Vai is not just about preserving a market, but about safeguarding a living heritage – a place where memories are named and cherished through the years. To prevent these values from fading in the modern era, alongside preserving the original cultural space, it's necessary to continue telling the story of Khau Vai through new forms such as documentaries and digital media products. When memories are retold in the right way, Khau Vai will no longer be just a destination, but will become an enduring symbol of loyalty and respect for the past in contemporary life.
Yellow River
Source: https://baotuyenquang.com.vn/van-hoa/202605/huyen-thoai-khau-vai-1af1d1e/
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