Along the long stretch of the country, near the southernmost part of Central Vietnam, who among those born there doesn't feel a deep longing for their impoverished homeland? The longing intensifies when, unexpectedly, on some afternoon in some distant countryside, the heart yearns for home and catches a whiff of the sweet and savory aroma of fermented shrimp paste used in soups or stews carried on the wind. The smell of home, the smell of the sea, the salty scent of mother's love and father's devotion. It makes one's heart ache, a poignant remembrance of the shrimp paste season in their hometown.
Traveling along the vast sandy plains on both sides of National Highway 1, from Ca Na to Vinh Hao, through Lien Huong to Bac Binh, then to Luong Son, and finally around Mui Ne. On the high ridges are sand and shady forests, while below, along the long sandy slopes, the vast ocean waves embrace the beloved countryside. It's a place where even the fish, shrimp, crabs, and krill remain faithful, returning season after season. Around April and August, when the southerly wind blows gently, the krill swarms, their vibrant red color, emerge from the open sea and come right up to the shore. Kumquats are abundant during this season; near the shore, they are caught using traps and seine nets, while further out, densely woven nets are used for picking. Kumquats are similar to small freshwater prawns, longer and thinner, reddish-brown when underwater and whitish when brought ashore. They are only used in a few dishes because they have very little meat. Shrimp paste is stir-fried with sour starfruit, seasoned with a little fish sauce, onion, and pepper. Finely ground shrimp paste is seasoned, then rolled into patties like meatballs and fried. In case of scarcity, it's braised in a salty sauce, a delicious treat for rainy days. The rest is dried or made into fish sauce. Making fish sauce from shrimp paste is simple and easy, as the people of the coastal region say. The shrimp are caught, washed to remove dirt and sand, then spread out in baskets to dry. The shrimp are slender, but if left whole, they won't make good fish sauce. They are pounded in a stone mortar with a moderate amount of salt until they form a paste, then placed in small jars or containers. They are tightly covered with fresh banana leaves and left to dry in the sun for about ten days to half a month, checked a couple of times, until the fish sauce is ready and fragrant. The rest is about processing it to evoke memories and cravings for those far from home when they return. Visitors from afar, upon catching the faint aroma of sesame-grilled rice paper from the countryside, are captivated by the simple, rustic shrimp paste of their homeland, prepared and combined in the gentle ways of the people of Binh Thuan , especially the Tuy Phong and Bac Binh regions. Pork stewed with shrimp paste, often with finely crushed lemongrass, can be simmered for a long time or taken anywhere. Shrimp paste marinated with chili, garlic, and sugar is deliciously spicy, especially with the bird's eye chili from Binh Thanh and La Gan. Green fruits like starfruit, guava, and mango, when dipped in shrimp paste, are simply irresistible. Shrimp paste seasoning any vegetable soup is sweet and flavorful. A slightly diluted shrimp paste with garlic, chili, and sugar is served with rice paper rolls filled with boiled pork and fresh vegetables. Using shrimp paste to season beef or pork noodle soup creates an incredibly sweet and delicious broth with its distinctive aroma.
For me, the most delicious dish I'll always remember is a truly rustic, hearty, and deeply rooted dish that leaves a lasting impression on anyone who tastes it. It's grilled sesame rice paper with shrimp paste! Simple and down-to-earth, like the people of the coastal region, it seems this dish was created as a snack rather than a main course for the locals. After a long journey at sea, returning home in the chill of wet clothes, hungry after hours of hard work, sitting beside a half-burnt charcoal brazier, watching a woman skillfully turning the puffed sesame rice paper on the glowing embers. The aroma of the cooked rice paper, the fragrant roasted sesame seeds, that rich scent of home is further enhanced by each spoonful of shrimp paste mixed with garlic, chili, sugar, and ripe tamarind, brushed evenly over the still-hot rice paper and savored as it's chewed and mixed in the mouth of the person enjoying it.
Delicious and uniquely wonderful, the sesame rice paper salad, grilled over hot charcoal and then topped with shrimp paste, evokes the flavors of home—the lingering scent of the sea mingled with the aroma of the earth, fields, and rice paddies. And that's not all; the pungent aroma of garlic and the spicy kick of chili peppers—the more chili, the better. Some local dishes may not suit everyone's taste, but honestly, you only know after you've tried them. My hometown people all love this delicious dish, and almost become addicted to it whenever they return home to stroll around the village and the local market, as it's sold almost everywhere. The fish sauce is naturally salty, but the shrimp paste, when seasoned, becomes sweet and salty with each bite, and the sourness of the tamarind, the spiciness of the chili, and the garlic make you sigh with pleasure.
It's delicious, just try it and you'll see. This special, rustic dish doesn't use expensive seafood ingredients, doesn't require high-end seasonings, and doesn't demand sophisticated cooking techniques like those found in city restaurants or hotels. It's made with only the readily available ingredients of the countryside and the abundant sea waves. Like the land and the people, it's a recurring cycle. The rice in the fields ripens, the sesame seeds in the paddies bloom, and the krill returns in season, and loved ones eagerly seek it out.
Lien Huong Salt for Marinating Shrimp Paste
Sending this to you will ease your longing for home.
Source: https://baobinhthuan.com.vn/mam-ruoc-huong-vi-que-nha-126478.html
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