A hundred years in a bowl of noodles

Việt Nam•23/08/2024

noodles 1 — The value of centuries of indigenous knowledge is embodied in Quang noodles. Photo: Provided.

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Over centuries of formation and development, the Quang noodle making craft in Quang Nam province has been a continuous innovation of generations of artisans. The professional knowledge, skills, and processing procedures accumulated over time are closely associated with the distinctive regional products of the craft village.

Therefore, culinary culture carries the vitality of its origins, and the custodians of these culinary heritages are also the guardians and transmitters of that vitality, forming a vital link between tradition and modernity across generations.

The traditional craft of making Quang noodles exists in many districts, towns, and cities of Quang Nam province. According to incomplete inventory results, there are currently nearly 900 establishments and households engaged in the Quang noodle processing trade, concentrated most heavily in Dien Ban, Hoi An , Tam Ky, Duy Xuyen, and Nui Thanh...

In Dien Ban district, there are approximately 400 establishments and households involved in processing and selling Quang noodles. Dien Phuong ward alone has about 200 households and establishments processing Quang noodles, including those selling locally and those transporting them to neighboring towns.

Many villages have almost become craft villages specializing in processing and selling Quang noodles, such as La Thap village (Duy Chau, Duy Xuyen), Phu Chiem (Dien Phuong, Dien Ban), Yen Pho (Tam Anh Nam, Nui Thanh), Dong Xuan neighborhood (Truong Xuan, Tam Ky), and Thanh Ha neighborhood (Thanh Ha, Hoi An).

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When people from Quang Nam province honor Quang noodles.

In particular, Phu Chiem village in Dien Phuong ward (Dien Ban district) specializes in processing and selling Quang noodles. Some elderly villagers believe that Phu Chiem noodles originated when the Vietnamese settled in Quang Nam province, associated with the activities of the Hoi An trading port.

During the war years, Phu Chiem noodles were carried around by women to sell. Gradually, over time, Phu Chiem noodles spread further into Duy Xuyen, Thang Binh, Tam Ky, up to Dai Loc, and even to Da Nang City. Some people from Phu Chiem village even took their secret noodle recipe with them to the Central Highlands, Southern Vietnam, and Saigon to start businesses.

Both unique and diverse

Quang Nam noodles also demonstrate their uniqueness in their versatility, as few other localities have a dish like Quang Nam that is present at ancestral worship ceremonies, Tet (Lunar New Year), new rice offering ceremonies, housewarming parties, and other celebrations. It's also a year-round dish, where noodles can be the main dish replacing rice in all four seasons and eight festivals.

Almost everyone born and raised in Quang Nam province loves and knows how to prepare Quang Nam noodles. Therefore, the profession of preparing Quang Nam noodles in Quang Nam province is very widespread.

In modern society, Quang noodles have become a "cultural ambassador" of Quang Nam province. They are present at festivals, cultural and tourism events, conferences, seminars, and diplomatic events of Quang Nam province with domestic and international delegations.

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It can be said that Quang noodles are a national and international "cultural ambassador." Quang noodles are increasingly being recognized and their influence spread as a unique culinary cultural heritage of Quang Nam province.

Every person from Quang Nam who works far from home longs for their mother's bowl of Quang Nam noodles. Quang Nam noodles have become the soul of Quang Nam, passed down through generations and deeply connected to every person from Quang Nam when they leave their homeland.

According to chef and culinary expert Trinh Thi Diem Vy (Hoi An), analyzing a bowl of Quang Phu Chiem noodles can determine the authentic recipe by continuing the values of traditional folk knowledge to identify the ingredients, colors (spices), and accompanying items (raw vegetables, rice paper), while also considering and supplementing the quantities, nutritional formulas, and cooking methods for the filling; from there, the craft can be universally taught.

Source: https://baoquangnam.vn/tram-nam-trong-mot-to-my-3139963.html