Chili sauce from the land of steel

Muong Khuong was formerly known as Mung Khang, which in the local language means "land of steel." Elderly people say that the name came about because the area has steep slopes and many towering rocky mountains, and the soil is barren and hard, like iron and steel. On this brave and steadfast land of steel, a unique chili pepper grows. The dry sun and biting wind of this upstream region of the Chay River have permeated the chili's skin and core, creating the vibrant red color and tongue-burning spiciness of this local specialty from the border highlands, a tradition passed down through generations.

Muong Khuong is a land of many specialties. These include smoked buffalo meat, smoked pork, sausages, sour pho, fermented tofu, and thang co (a traditional stew). But strangely, the name Muong Khuong is most closely associated with chili sauce, creating a brand for Muong Khuong chili sauce as if the land's name were linked to the people's names in a lingering, nostalgic way. Like yin and yang, like heaven and earth, like mountains and forests, like brother and sister.

Women in Muong Khuong harvest chili peppers to make chili sauce. Photo: **Duc Phuong.**

From the skillful hands of mothers and sisters in the highlands, a chili sauce imbued with the spirit of the forest and mountains has been created. More than just a dipping sauce, Muong Khuong chili sauce is the "soul" of many highland meals, intimately connected to the daily life and culinary culture of the ethnic minority communities who are tirelessly protecting every inch of sacred land in this border region.

Sitting by the fireplace in her traditional house on a foggy, windy winter afternoon, I listened as the old woman told me about making chili sauce. She rubbed her hands, stained a deep blue with indigo dye, against the tattered hem of her old, embroidered dress, which had been torn in several places by the embers, then pushed the firewood to make the fire burn brighter before slowly beginning to speak. Her voice was dreamlike, yet real, like a fairy tale in everyday life, seemingly unconcerned about my impatience.

This chili variety is a specialty of Muong Khuong. Photo: Duc Phuong

The main ingredient is ripe red chili peppers, hand-picked, sun-dried to reduce moisture content, then washed and ground together with fresh garlic. The chili-garlic mixture is then thoroughly mixed with coarse salt, corn wine, and especially traditional spices such as cumin seeds, star anise, coriander seeds, and cardamom. These spices are roasted until fragrant, then ground into a fine powder, creating a rich aroma and a deep, intense spiciness.

After mixing thoroughly, the mixture is left to ferment naturally in earthenware jars or oak barrels for several months, giving the chili sauce a slightly sour taste. "That's it, there's no secret!" the old woman said, not hiding anything from me to add a touch of mystery and allure to the dish. But I suddenly realized that I could take the secret with me, but I couldn't take away the wind, the sunlight, the hands, and the warm, heartfelt human connection embedded in this world-renowned dish. Chili sauce is only Muong Khuong chili sauce when it's made in this land, by the people of Muong Khuong, isn't it?

Muong Khuong chili sauce is as red as the lips of an unmarried girl, as smooth and thick as freshly dyed indigo fabric. When the jar is opened, it releases the fragrant aroma of the forest and mountains. The spiciness comes suddenly and lingers for a long time, like the gaze of a girl I fell in love with at the Pha Long market. Just a tiny drop is enough to make the page burst with a magical red hue.

My love, are you still waiting for me in this heroic land of steel? Is your love still as passionate as Muong Khuong chili sauce, so that my heart will forever cherish your memory…?

Source: https://baolaocai.vn/tuong-ot-vung-dat-thep-post401160.html