Dong Van ancient town night

BHG - Dong Van Old Quarter welcomed me when the sun had just set behind the mountains. The fog gradually covered the area, the lights from the rammed earth houses shone out, illuminating the space with a warm, quiet atmosphere. In the middle of the undulating Stone Plateau, Dong Van night is like a gentle melody of nature, where every traveler can listen to their heart's voice blending with the sounds of heaven and earth.

On weekdays, when night falls, Dong Van town puts on a mesmerizing silence. The wind from the Cat Ear Mountains weaves through each stone slab, through the yin-yang tiled roofs, creating a unique melody in the mountain town. I stopped by the “Old Town Coffee Shop”, a house leaning against the cliff, tinged with time. Built in 1912, perhaps this place has witnessed many historical ups and downs. The mark of time is still imprinted on the old features, the house retains its ancient look, like a silent mark in the heart of Dong Van town. Under the magical lantern light, the space inside seems to be covered in a layer of misty past, evoking ancient memories.

Dong Van ancient town lights up.

The two-story house with wooden corridors and railings resembles the Vuong family mansion, reflecting the fusion of indigenous culture and Chinese architecture. In the middle of the shop, there is a large courtyard, open to the sky. Locals call it the “skylight” - a place where light, mountain wind and the sounds of the old town converge. On weekends, this place is a small stage, with singing and dancing, bringing visitors into the unique cultural space of the highland people. I chose a corner to sit on the second floor porch, facing the center of the old town, to have a private space but still join in the joy of the town night. Sipping a cup of warm coffee with a mild bitter taste, I quietly let my soul follow the sound of the Mong flute echoing from afar.

From above, the small town is quietly hidden in the mist. Two rows of ancient houses in the center, once the old market, have now been restored. Wearing a new coat, the row of ancient houses has become cafes and souvenir shops selling goods to tourists. When night falls, it is also the time when tourists return to gather in front of the large yard to interact and light a campfire with the locals. The flickering fire lights up the radiant faces, the singing echoes along with traditional folk games with the sound of the mountains and forests. In that space, I suddenly see the shadow of the old market, the simple smiles of women at their simple stalls after a long day in the fields. It seems that Dong Van ancient town is still whispering its own stories, quietly but deeply, in the endless flow of time.

Tourists check-in at the Old Quarter market at night.

Not as noisy as the daytime market, the night market of Dong Van ancient town has a simple and attractive beauty. Under the cold mist of the Stone Plateau, what could be more interesting than wandering around the roadside stalls. Under the glowing charcoal stove, the fragrant smell of roasted corn and sweet potatoes. Enjoying the simple culinary flavors from the hard-working hands of the highlanders. In that space, I was captivated by the Dong Van ancient town rice rolls. The appeal does not come from the sophistication but lies in the simplicity and authenticity of the familiar ingredients. In the past, rice rolls were just a rustic breakfast dish, but since tourism has developed, many shops have served diners from early morning to midnight. The rolls are thinly spread, fragrant with the smell of new rice, smooth white, soft, combined with a bowl of sweet broth, fragrant with the smell of stewed bones, creating a unique and unforgettable flavor.

The night in Dong Van ancient town is quiet and profound, like a slow melody of the mountains and forests. The gentle sound of the Mong flute in the mist, the flickering fire at the small roadside shop, the sparkling smiles in the middle of the night of the Stone Plateau… All create an unforgettable memory, so that anyone who has visited this place will carry with them a bit of nostalgia, forever returning to a peaceful, warm feeling.

Article and photos: HOANG HA

Source: https://baohagiang.vn/van-hoa/202504/dem-pho-co-dong-van-db41e83/