Dong Van Old Town at night

BHG - The ancient town of Dong Van welcomed me as the sun was setting behind the mountains. Mist gradually enveloped the area, and the lights from the traditional houses cast a warm, tranquil glow over the space. Amidst the undulating rocky plateau, the night in Dong Van is like a gentle melody of nature, where every traveler can listen to their own inner voice harmonizing with the sounds of the earth and sky.

BHG - The ancient town of Dong Van welcomed me as the sun was setting behind the mountains. Mist gradually enveloped the area, and the lights from the traditional houses cast a warm, tranquil glow over the space. Amidst the undulating rocky plateau, the night in Dong Van is like a gentle melody of nature, where every traveler can listen to their own inner voice harmonizing with the sounds of the earth and sky.

On weekdays, as night falls, Dong Van town takes on an enchanting tranquility. Winds from the jagged mountains weave through the rocks and rustle the yin-yang tiled roofs, creating a unique melody in this mountain town. I stopped by the "Old Town Cafe," a house nestled against the mountainside, steeped in history. Built in 1912, it has likely witnessed countless historical ups and downs. The marks of time remain etched in its ancient appearance; the house retains its antique charm, a silent, contemplative presence in the heart of Dong Van town. Under the ethereal glow of lanterns, the interior space seems shrouded in a mist of the past, evoking distant memories.

The old town of Dong Van lights up at night.

The two-story house, with its wooden corridors and railings reminiscent of a royal mansion, reflects the blend of local culture and Chinese architecture. In the center of the cafe, a spacious courtyard opens up to the sky. Locals call it the "sky well"—a place where light, mountain breezes, and the sounds of the old town converge. On weekends, it transforms into a small stage, filled with singing and dancing, immersing visitors in the unique cultural atmosphere of the highland people. I chose a corner on the second-floor veranda, facing the center of the old town, for a private space while still joining in the town's nighttime festivities. Sipping a warm cup of coffee with its subtly bitter taste, I quietly let my mind wander to the distant sounds of the Hmong flute.

From above, the small town quietly hides in the mist. The two rows of old buildings in the center, once the old market, have been renovated. Dressed in new clothes, these old buildings have become cafes and souvenir shops selling goods to tourists. As night falls, tourists gather in the spacious courtyard to socialize and light bonfires with the locals. The flickering flames illuminate radiant faces, and songs blend with traditional folk games that evoke the sounds of the mountains and forests. In this atmosphere, I suddenly catch a glimpse of the old market, the simple smiles of the women at their humble stalls after a long day in the fields. It seems that the old town of Dong Van is still whispering its own stories, quietly and profoundly, amidst the endless flow of time.

Tourists check in at the Old Quarter market at night.

Unlike the bustling daytime markets, the night market in Dong Van Old Town possesses a captivating, tranquil beauty. Amidst the lingering mist of the rocky plateau, what could be more delightful than lingering at roadside stalls, surrounded by glowing charcoal stoves emitting the fragrant aroma of roasted corn and sweet potatoes? Enjoying the simple culinary delights crafted by the hardworking hands of the highlanders, I was particularly drawn to the Dong Van Old Town's steamed rice rolls. Their appeal doesn't come from their elaborate presentation, but from the simplicity and authenticity of their familiar ingredients. Previously, steamed rice rolls were just a simple breakfast dish, but with the development of tourism, many stalls now serve customers from early morning until midnight. The thinly rolled rolls, fragrant with the scent of fresh rice, are white, smooth, and soft, combined with a bowl of sweet, savory broth made from simmered bones, creating a unique and unforgettable flavor.

The ancient town of Dong Van at night is tranquil and profound, like a slow melody of the mountains and forests. The gentle sound of the Hmong flute in the mist, the flickering firelight at the small roadside stalls, the sparkling smiles in the night of the rocky plateau… All of this creates an unforgettable realm of memories, leaving anyone who has visited this place with a sense of nostalgia, a feeling of peace and warmth that will never fade.

Text and photos: HOANG HA

Source: https://baohagiang.vn/van-hoa/202504/dem-pho-co-dong-van-db41e83/