Arriving at Bethlehem amidst the war.

A shopkeeper sits waiting for customers in Bethlehem.

Australian tourist Ian Lloyd Neubauer visited the Gaza Strip in May and had a memorable experience walking in Bethlehem, a city in the Palestinian autonomous region of the West Bank, 10 km from Jerusalem. "I was one of the few tourists to come here after seven months of fighting in the Gaza Strip," Ian said.

Considered the birthplace of Jesus and King David, Bethlehem is an important pilgrimage site for Christians, Jews, and Muslims. Before Hamas attacked Israel on October 7, 2023, the city was considered a tourist hotspot or the "jewel in the crown" of the Palestinian tourism industry, which is worth $1 billion.

"Whether you're interested in history, religion, or culture, the city is certainly a fascinating place to visit," local travel company Tourist Israel wrote on its website. However, when Ian contacted them to book a tour to Bethlehem, a company representative said "tours have been cancelled" due to the fighting.

Unable to book a tour, Ian went to the tourist information center in Jaffa, Tel Aviv, to look for opportunities. There, he met an Israeli who used to guide tourists to Bethlehem before the fighting broke out. This man directed Ian to Jerusalem and from there he could take a bus to Bethlehem.

Departing from Damascus Gate, the largest of the eight gates leading into the Old City of Jerusalem, the bus carrying Ian and other passengers stopped upon reaching Bethlehem. An Israeli border police officer boarded the bus to check the identification of each passenger. On board were a Romanian couple and Ian, who was a foreigner; the rest were Palestinians.

After the inspection, the bus continued its journey. Ian described the route from Jerusalem to Bethlehem as a "wonder," with its long, winding roads passing through tunnels, bridges, and running along the Judean Mountains. The scenery on either side was also impressive: jagged hills and barren villages.

After a 40-minute drive, the car arrived in Bethlehem. Ian's first impression was that "everything was in disrepair," from the roads and shops to the walkways. Trash and weeds were everywhere. Old cars were abandoned on the streets.

A view of Bethlehem today.

Ian got out of the car and was walking when a taxi driver approached him. The driver demanded 20 shekels (US$5) to take him to the Old Town of Bethlehem, a UNESCO World Heritage site located atop a steep hill. When the tourist refused and walked away, the driver cursed and shouted, "I'll have Hamas kidnap you!"

"My heart started pounding," Ian said, so frightened he could "feel the pulse in my arm." Ian then considered two options: either it was just a threat, or he would turn the threat into reality. If things unfolded as he suspected, even returning to the bus to Jerusalem would be pointless. Therefore, Ian decided to go straight ahead and not let the threat force him to compromise and use the driver's services.

The path to the hilltop narrowed, leading to a series of tall, white limestone steps that gleamed brightly in the sunlight. Ian continued until he found himself in the middle of a bustling market, where fruit vendors and shoemakers busied themselves hawking their wares. The aroma of freshly baked flatbread wafted through the air. Church bells rang from the bell tower.

Ian realized he was the only Western visitor at the market, so he attracted all the attention of the locals. Some vendors grumbled and asked him not to take pictures of them, others were indifferent, only the friendly children asked him where he was from.

The male tourist turned into a cobblestone alley where deserted souvenir shops with weary faces sat. "How are we supposed to survive?" one shopkeeper lamented to Ian. Another said they hadn't had a customer since October 7, 2023.

Inside the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem in May.

At the top of the hill is the Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem's main attraction, built in the Romanesque style in 565. The building is almost perfectly preserved, with its flower-filled courtyards.

The Tourist Israel website once wrote that the Nativity Cave is the most sought-after site in Bethlehem, with long queues of people waiting. No guide can guarantee the exact time they will be able to take visitors inside the cave.

When Ian visited, there was only a small group of tourists from Arab countries and a couple from Africa. International visitor numbers to Israel have dropped by 80% since the war with Hamas began. Most visitors now are Christians.

Ian returned to the market to buy a sandwich for 5 shekels (over $1), about one-fifth the price in Israel, and spoke with two Palestinian police officers. He mentioned being threatened by a taxi driver. The two officers said it was just a "personal matter" and assured him that Bethlehem was "safe".

Before returning to Jerusalem, Ian wanted to visit the tomb of Rachel, the prophetess and wife of Jacob, the third patriarch of the Israelites. The road to the tomb was wide and scorching hot because there were no trees. On either side of the road were shops where men sat in groups smoking pipes. Upon arriving, Ian was unable to enter because he was separated by the West Bank Wall, a hundreds-of-kilometers-long concrete barrier built by Tel Aviv.

Ian called a taxi to take him to the bus stop. The driver sped through the narrow streets of Bethlehem in an irritable mood, complaining about the war. As they traveled along the highway towards Jerusalem, the car stopped at a military checkpoint. Everyone had to present their identification and travel permits to Israel. Ian breathed a sigh of relief that the journey had ended smoothly.

Ian suggests that if anyone were to ask for his advice on traveling to Bethlehem, his answer would be "don't go at this time" because the conflict is still intense.

TB (according to VnExpress)

Source: https://baohaiduong.vn/den-thanh-dia-bethlehem-giua-chien-su-383806.html