The rich, savory flavor of "Pang Choh"

"Pang Choh" - in the Xo Dang language, means pickled bamboo shoots. This is one of the oldest dishes and a common part of the daily meals of the Xo Dang people. Although simple, this dish is also very appealing.

In early October, Ms. Y Ut and other women from Wang Hra village, Dak Ui commune, Dak Ha district, took advantage of the opportunity to go into the forest to find the last bamboo shoots of the season. As they walked, Ms. Y Ut chatted with me: "Every year in July, when the heavy rains begin, it's the time to start our journey through the forest and across streams to harvest bamboo shoots. The bamboo shoot season is quite short, lasting only 3 months during the rainy season, so we have to make the most of it."

In this region, bamboo shoots are considered high-quality and delicious. Every bamboo shoot season, women go out to gather them from the forest for food, and if they gather a lot, they sell it to businesses. Gradually, bamboo shoot harvesting not only helps improve family meals but also becomes a supplementary occupation that contributes to increased income.

Because of their close connection with bamboo shoots, the Xơ Đăng women in Đăk Ui commune know every bamboo clump and patch of reeds intimately, and almost all of them are skilled bamboo shoot pickers. They pick bamboo shoots from a young age, and even after marrying, they continue to do so to provide food for their daily meals.

Preparing the ingredients for making "Pang Choh" . Photo: TT

"Experienced people can tell just by looking at the base of the plant how deep to dig, and how far from the old trunk to harvest the bamboo shoots. They know the best time of year to pick the most beautiful and delicious shoots," Y Út shared.

Holding a tender white bamboo shoot in her hand, Y Nham (from Wang Hra village) said: "In this Dak Ui region, there are many types of bamboo shoots. Typical examples include bamboo shoots from the Nua tree, the Sam Lu tree, and the Dien Truc tree. However, the best and most popular are the Le bamboo shoots, because they have a distinctive flavor, a sweet and crispy texture, a beautiful color, and are quite easy to find."

After each woman has gathered about half a basketful of bamboo shoots, everyone gathers in the communal kitchen to process the harvested bamboo shoots. The processed bamboo shoots can be preserved and eaten year-round. This year's bamboo shoot season follows the next, and so on; bamboo shoots are always present on the Xơ Đăng people's meals. According to research, there are two ways to process and preserve bamboo shoots year-round: drying them and making "Păng Chôh," which is pickled bamboo shoots. For the Xơ Đăng people in Đăk Ui commune, "Păng Chôh" is the most popular choice.

Xơ Đăng women gathering bamboo shoots in the forest. Photo: TT

According to experience, bamboo shoots must be processed immediately after harvesting to preserve their flavor. If left for too long, the bamboo shoots will become old, tough, and lose their fresh taste.

The initial preparation involves peeling and thoroughly washing the bamboo shoots. Washing requires skill to prevent bruising, which would affect the subsequent processing. The next step is slicing the bamboo shoots into evenly sized pieces. If the slices are too thick, they will lack aesthetic appeal and won't absorb the soaking liquid properly. Conversely, if the slices are too thin, they will easily break and crumble. After slicing, the bamboo shoots are soaked in rice water overnight to reduce bitterness, remove toxins, and make them sweeter, whiter, and crispier.

Next comes the preparation of the seasoning. The ingredients, including chili peppers, garlic, and salt, are mixed together and then pounded until finely ground. Then, the cook adds a moderate amount of cooled boiled water to the seasoning mixture; the resulting liquid will be slightly cloudy and thick.

Xơ Đăng women prepare bamboo shoots from the forest. Photo: TT

Ms. Y Ut revealed: "Mixing bamboo shoots with the seasoning mixture creates a synergistic effect, greatly enhancing the flavor. Even those around can smell it. It's the pungent taste of garlic, the spiciness of chili, the slight sourness of bamboo shoots, all blended together in an indescribable harmony."

Under the skillful hands of the Xơ Đăng women of Wang Hra village, the bamboo shoots, after being seasoned, are mixed with mac mật leaves, then placed in a jar and sealed with banana leaves for fermentation. After about 2-3 days, they are ready to eat. The jars for fermenting the bamboo shoots are usually placed in a cool place in the house. If prepared correctly, the dish "Păng Chôh" can be preserved for up to 2 years.

Ms. Y Ut shared: "Traditionally, whenever the Xo Dang people go to the forest or to the fields, 'Pang Choh' has always been their top choice to bring along. Usually, they put 'Pang Choh' in bamboo tubes along with white rice. At mealtime, they can roast the bamboo tube directly over the fire. This makes the 'Pang Choh' taste much lighter and more fragrant than usual. In addition, 'Pang Choh' can be cooked with stream fish, forest rats, squirrels, chicken, etc. Therefore, depending on how it's used, 'Pang Choh' is both a dish and an ingredient."

"Pang Choh" is white and quite visually appealing. When we tasted "Pang Choh," we all nodded in approval, praising its deliciousness. This dish has a refreshing sourness, a crunchy texture, and a distinctive sweetness. Then comes the spicy, aromatic flavor of chili and garlic. In just one dish, "Pang Choh" offers diners a multitude of unforgettable savory flavors.

Ms. Y Ut shared: "The preparation steps seem simple. However, making a truly delicious 'Pang Choh' dish is not easy at all. This is also why the women in the village often gather together after harvesting bamboo shoots to make it. They learn and exchange ideas on how to make the bamboo shoots tastier and preserve them longer. Then, depending on each family's eating habits, each person can adapt and innovate the dish to suit the tastes of their family members."

Perhaps for the villagers, "Pang Choh" is not just an everyday dish, but also a "secret" passed down and preserved through generations. A rustic dish, yet imbued with refined culinary artistry, it always leaves diners with an unforgettable, savory aftertaste of the mountains and forests.

And so, for the Xơ Đăng people, a year doesn't just have two seasons – rainy and dry – but also another season: the season for gathering bamboo shoots to make "Păng Chôh".

TAT THANH