Slow living in the Alps

SGGP 09/07/2023 07:05

After seven years, my father, now 75, returned to Europe because his daughter persuaded him that European summers are wonderful, cool, and lush. The scenery and the people are all joyful, and she promised to design an itinerary so he would walk as little as possible while still seeing the most beautiful sights.

I chose a route so that the former geotechnical engineer could rediscover the old feelings amidst the mountains and forests, beside streams and lakes, so that father and son could spend more time together, understand each other better, and bond even more, while also satisfying the wanderlust of those who love to travel and seek new things.

And so we formed a road trip, traversing numerous cities and towns along the famous European Alps in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, descending to the renowned Mediterranean Sea, lingering through the Provence countryside, and immersing ourselves in the charming half-timbered houses of both France and Germany, all during these July days. Dad said the more we travel, the healthier we become, and the more I drive, the happier I find every mile of the journey.

Father and son on a mountain road in the Alps, Europe. Photo: NAM VINH

The first time we set off, we didn't book all the services for the entire trip because we were worried about Dad's health and whether he could handle the demanding daily schedule. But thanks to Mom's nutritional supplements and Dad's long walks before the trip, after just two days of adjustment, Dad caught up to the pace of a seasoned long-distance walker.

Upon arriving in Berchtesgadener Land – the part of the Alps in Germany – my father exclaimed, "It feels like we've been traveling for days!" And the pursuit of leisure is quite elaborate. Hikers trek along the mountain ridges, climb sheer cliffs hundreds of meters high using only their hands, groups on high-powered motorcycles, convoys of two-door sports cars, and groups of vintage Vespas and classic cars all enthusiastically participate on the scenic routes. Some travel alone, with small boats mounted on the roof of their vehicles and mountain bikes slung over the back. Many elderly people, even older than my father, still ride high-powered motorcycles, fully equipped and looking very cool.

My father was very impressed with the pinnacle of Austrian mountain road construction – the 48km Grossglockner Road, built in 1935 at an altitude of 2,500m, with 36 hairpin bends, is a magnet for motorcyclists, cyclists, and car drivers despite the relatively high toll (day pass €40/car, €30/motorcycle). Every meter of the road opens up spectacular views of the Alps with snow-capped curves, the highest peak in Austria, Grossglockner (3,798m), appearing almost within reach, the Pasterze glacier, and each rest stop along the way offers breathtaking panoramic views of the mountains and passes.

The geotechnical engineer was also thrilled to take a full drive around the Verdon Gorge, Europe's largest and most beautiful gorge in Provence, France, admiring the sheer cliffs, some reaching heights of 700 meters. He kept reminiscing about how, back when his father worked on the Da River geological survey team, each person had a machete to clear a path, and in some sections, the tall, dense grass was too thick to use a machete, so they had to take turns lying down to flatten the grass and create a trail. He also marveled at how in Europe they've built paved mountain passes solely for tourism. He was also impressed by the vast agricultural areas in other countries. Both crop farming and livestock raising are on a large scale, with crop rotation and only one harvest per year to prevent soil degradation. Fields planted with perennial crops like grapes, lavender, and fruit trees are all adapted to the specific topography and soil conditions of each region.

Our two-week road trip, entirely by road, smoothly driven by my daughter, covered nearly 4,200km from our home in Germany. It took us across countless fields, over numerous mountains, past emerald-green lakes, and around many winding mountain passes. We celebrated her birthday together, savoring every mile of the journey – a journey that felt both fast-paced and slow-paced. It was truly a first-time trip, filled with things we'd never said, things we'd never seen, flavors we'd never tasted, and emotions we'd never felt before.

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