Rice noodle soup - porridge waiting
The first surprise was that the sign said "porridge," but when it was served, it was clearly rice noodle soup. Whenever a customer ordered, they had to patiently "wait" for the vendor to put the noodles into a pot of boiling water on the stove to cook them.
According to various explanations from local culinary experts, the "waiting porridge" of Nam O is a miraculous creation based on the cultural exchange of culinary traditions between the Binh Tri Thien region and the Nam O palate.
Simply put, it's a type of noodle soup made with rice flour and tapioca flour, originating from the area near Hai Van Pass. The full name is "noodle soup porridge," but people in the area near the pass shorten it to "noodle soup" for convenience.
In Quang Tri , there are places where it's called "bed-slat porridge," because the rice noodle strands are cut exactly like the bamboo bed slats of the past. However, it's worth noting that the rice noodles are cut much finer when they cross the Hai Van Pass and reach Nam O…
What gives Nam O fish porridge its unique character is not only the sweet and savory broth made from sea fish, but also the pot of fish used to make the stew, which uses fresh mackerel as the main ingredient.
Talking about braised mackerel is talking about the exquisite skill of the women in the fishing village. Freshly caught from the sea, the fish are cleaned and steamed until cooked. Then, the flesh is separated, seasoned, and of course, Nam O fish sauce is essential for flavor enhancement. The fish is then braised until the flesh is dry, chewy, and crispy. The bones are kept, crushed, and added to the broth to increase the sweetness.
A truly authentic bowl of Nam O-style rice porridge should have a sweet and savory broth, with the braised mackerel so flavorful that the taste is concentrated.
The people of Quang Nam in general, and Nam O in particular, prefer rich and flavorful tastes, and the same goes for the "waiting porridge" (cháo chờ). But that alone isn't enough without a halved kumquat squeezed into the steaming hot porridge. And it has to be kumquat, not lemon! Don't underestimate it; a small piece of kumquat can bring out the full flavor of a simple, rustic dish like Nam O's waiting porridge.
A traditional dish from the fishing village.
Only in recent years, to add more variety, people have started adding quail eggs and pork sausage (or fried dough sticks) to the traditional rice porridge and eating it with fried dough sticks. In Gen Z slang, this means adding more toppings (food placed on top) compared to the traditional rice porridge.
It's unknown when this surprising dish originated, but it became most famous in the 1990s, when porridge stalls surrounded vocational schools, colleges, and factories in Nam O.
Now, the daughters of Nam O, having married and moved far away, have carried the flavors of their hometown with them to other places. The space for this traditional Nam O porridge is no longer confined to its birthplace but has begun to spread throughout Quang Nam and Da Nang . If you come across a Nam O porridge stall in a place geographically far from its original location, it's 100% certain that the owner is from Nam O and has come to establish their business there.
Many people admit that they initially ate there out of curiosity, but later returned out of fond memories!
Once diners become addicted to the Nam O fishing village's rice porridge, they don't mind waiting a little longer. In the space filled with the fragrant, sweet aroma from the steaming broth on the stove, the wait is well worth it.
This rustic dish, deeply rooted in the fishing village culture, remains a living entity and continues to thrive in the daily lives of the working people. Compared to Nam O fish salad, the "cháo chờ" (waiting porridge) is still found in humble eateries located in small neighborhoods or on sidewalks, resulting in surprisingly affordable prices…
One could eat porridge year-round without getting tired of it. Sitting huddled around a small table, chatting with friends or acquaintances, patiently waiting for a bowl of fragrant, sea-scented porridge in the ancient fishing village of Nam O – what could be more delightful…
And Nam O's traditional porridge is not just a common dish, but has become a unique culinary culture unlike anywhere else!
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