The city is beautiful; this young capital was built next to the ancient city of Annam but developed independently and without negatively impacting the ancient city. The city's founders wisely avoided touching the relics of this incredibly unique civilization, except for removing garbage, cleaning up intersections and alleyways, and displaying them like precious works of art. The proximity of the two cities, the contrast between the elegance and modern conveniences and the dilapidated Asian charm, is one of Hanoi 's most appealing aspects; through the lens of an artist or a tourist simply who appreciates exoticism, this makes Hanoi more lovable than Saigon, a magnificent but somewhat desolate city with an overly bureaucratic and monotonous appearance.
The entrance to a local temple in Hanoi.
The capital of Tonkin seemed destined to be one of the most beautiful and pleasant cities in the Far East – and it was. It's one of those cities that never disappoints. It has its own unique character and is worth a visit, even if the glorious images of Bombay [now Mumbai], Batavia, or Bangkok still linger in our minds.
Those who haven't visited Hanoi in the last four or five years would hardly recognize it. Since then, the city has transformed. Not so long ago, it was a concession area on the banks of the Red River. There once was, and still is, the mansion – I wouldn't dare call it a palace – of the governor-general, the general staff, and other auxiliary buildings. Next came Paul Bert Street [now Trang Tien Street], where merchants resided. It seems this group was trying to adopt the finer British custom of clearly separating family from work, home from office. Young and old alike began to yield to the need for air and space. Many villas with gardens sprang up along the new boulevards. Admittedly, they are still quite scattered, with many vacant plots; but these locations will sooner or later be occupied.
As long as Northern Vietnam remains prosperous, Hanoi, with a population of over 60,000, will continue to expand beyond Hai Phong , even surpassing its younger rival. But ultimately, this is merely an impression, and I cannot rely on it to make a definitive judgment. However, this impression is something many visitors, both French and foreign, have noticed. Anyone who has been here, even for just a few days, is captivated not only by the unique scenery but also by its advantageous location. Hanoi has always been the true capital of the country. Nature has transformed Hanoi into the heart of this body, with the main arteries being the streams flowing into the Red River.
Annamese women in Hanoi
Right now, there's a life here, a movement, a joyful street scene that contrasts sharply with the sleepy stillness of many other colonial cities. More relaxed faces, more pleasant conversations and discussions—all reflecting a zest for life, a strong acceptance of initial difficulties, and a fervent belief in the future. Perhaps I'm mistaken. Perhaps I'm being deceived by appearances. Hanoi's initial appearance has far exceeded my expectations. They say it's just the facade. One needs to see what lies beneath this glamorous exterior. I don't care, and I'll add that, at least for now, I don't mind. Why spoil my enjoyment with gloomy thoughts? Observe the scenery before judging the play.
And the scenery was truly enchanting, especially in the mornings still damp with night mist, or in the fiery afternoons, when the midday nap was over, work was done, and the entire city of Hanoi, from civilian to military officials, would go to the outskirts to enjoy the cool breeze around the new Experimental Garden [now the Botanical Garden], along Grand-Bouddha Street [now Quan Thanh Street], a strolling route called the Tour de Bois. From 4 o'clock onwards, horsemen and their entourages would appear, their small, spirited horses stomping and stomping, four-wheeled carriages, with charming baskets attached to them, the kind of light carriages found in hot spring resorts. And on the shores of Ho Nho Lake [Hoan Kiem Lake], people vied with each other to display their breezy costumes.
Miraculously, this small lake, once a swamp and garbage dump, is now as clear as a mountain lake, highlighting the headlands and bays on the lush lawns of a shady, flower-filled park. On a small mound connected to the shore by a wooden bridge stands an ancient temple, though riddled with termites in many places, still elegant, its reflection shimmering against the sky and mirrored on the calm water.
Across the lake lies Hanoi's Old Quarter, a city painted a stark white. This is a measure mandated by a recently issued city decree to prevent the worrying spread of disease as the hot season approaches. The white lime gives the low-rise houses, the cramped, closely packed spaces, and the slanted roofs touching the street, the appearance of a West Asian city, a corner of Tunis or Smyrne. Both the internal layout and the grouping of trades and goods bear similarities to the cities of the ancient Middle East, where similar practices have not yet disappeared. In short, this is a primitive city, of Asian or European type, with adjacent but unmixed elements, a peculiar crampedness, competition between tiny republics of craftsmen and merchants, people "living close but far apart" paying attention to each other's every move… Indeed, history is a constant repetition, and initially, the instincts of social life almost always manifest in similar forms, in every people. (to be continued)
(Nguyen Quang Dieu excerpted from the book *Around Asia: Southern, Central , and Northern Vietnam*, translated by Hoang Thi Hang and Bui Thi He, published by AlphaBooks - National Archives Center I and Dan Tri Publishing House in July 2024)
Source: https://thanhnien.vn/du-ky-viet-nam-ha-noi-thu-phu-xu-bac-ky-18524121322015199.htm
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