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Stir-fried sea snails - a specialty dish that 'tests your patience' in Hai Phong.

VnExpressVnExpress02/08/2023


Many diners spend up to an hour enjoying a bowl of stir-fried sea snails, a specialty of the coastal region of Hai Phong .

In Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, it's not difficult to find restaurants selling Hai Phong specialties like crab noodle soup, spicy bread, and Cot Den pate. But there's one specialty that, if you want to eat it, you have to go back to Hai Phong to enjoy: stir-fried sea snails.

Sea slugs, also known as marine slugs, are a type of mollusk with a dark green shell. At first glance, they look quite similar to clams, but are only about the size of a thumb. They live deep beneath the sea sand, with long, slender legs (about 4-5 cm) protruding, resembling bean sprouts, hence the name "sea slugs."

The price of stir-fried beef has been included in the Hai Phong Culinary Map by the Hai Phong Department of Tourism, with the address being the food court at Luong Van Can Market, May To Ward, Ngo Quyen District.

The food court at Luong Van Can Market is famous for its stir-fried sea snails.

The food court at Luong Van Can Market is famous for its stir-fried sea snails.

Located about 200 meters from the market entrance, Mrs. Nguyen Thi Hang's (51 years old) eatery at 11 Doi Can Street is one of the first places to sell stir-fried sea snails at the market. "Stir-fried sea snails isn't an unfamiliar dish to people in Hai Phong, but back then, no one at Luong Van Can market sold it, so I researched how to prepare it myself and opened a restaurant. It's been 15 years now," Mrs. Hang said.

Mrs. Hang's eatery is open from 2 PM to approximately 6:30 PM daily. The space is about 10 square meters, with a roof covering, used for parking, and can accommodate about two dining tables and Mrs. Hang's counter. The interior of the shop is about 20 square meters, capable of serving 10-15 customers at a time.

Ms. Hang said that the main ingredient, fresh sea cucumbers, is imported from coastal areas of Hai Phong such as Trang Cat (Hai An district), Do Son (Do Son district), and Cat Ba (Cat Hai district). Because sea cucumbers live in sand, the processing is meticulous. The outer shell needs to be cleaned of sand and dirt by scrubbing. Then, the fresh sea cucumbers are soaked in water for at least 6 hours to allow them to release all the dirt inside before being rinsed thoroughly.

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After initial preparation, the clam's legs are separated, while the body, with its shell intact, is stir-fried with onions, garlic, galangal, lemongrass, turmeric powder, vinegar, and other seasonings. Diluted wheat flour or tapioca starch is used to thicken the dish. The finished stir-fried clam is a mixture of clam meat with a thick, smooth sauce that is yellow from the turmeric.

A pot of stir-fried bean sprouts, half-covered in cooked bean sprouts, is placed on the stove right in front of the shop by Mrs. Hang, emitting smoke and an enticing aroma. The owner uses a ladle to scoop two portions of meat from the pot to serve a bowl of stir-fried bean sprouts for 30,000 VND. A sprinkle of chopped cilantro is added to the bowl of bean sprouts.

Holding a bowl of stir-fried sea snails in their hands, many people think the dish is expensive compared to the quantity. However, Ms. Hang said that one kilogram of sea snails already costs 150,000 VND, not including the meticulous preparation to keep the snail meat fresh, firm, and free of any fishy smell. "Even a small bowl of sea snails can take some people an hour to finish," Ms. Hang said.

Enjoying stir-fried sea snails is not as simple as picking up rice noodles with chopsticks or extracting snail meat with a needle. Diners must skillfully combine their teeth and tongue to separate the shell and meat of the sea snail right in their mouths. Although the shell of the sea snail is quite soft, this is a challenge for those unfamiliar with this way of eating that requires great dexterity and patience.

The reward for diners is the sweet, savory meat combined with a sweet and sour sauce infused with the fragrant aroma of turmeric, galangal, and lemongrass, which helps to neutralize the characteristic fishy smell of the sea cucumber. The sea cucumber's legs are the translucent outer shell that encloses the meat inside, and diners can eat the shell as well. The legs are crunchy, slightly chewy, and have a sweet, savory taste that is enjoyable to chew. The unusual flavor of sea cucumber meat may be challenging for some first-time eaters.

Ms. Thu Mai's family (31 years old, Le Chan district) have been regular customers at Ms. Hang's restaurant for nearly 5 years. Ms. Mai said she has eaten stir-fried sea snails at many places such as Cat Bi Market and Co Dao Market, but Ms. Hang's restaurant suits her taste best because "the seasoning is just right, the sea snail legs are crispy, and the meat is not fishy or has an unpleasant, pungent smell."

According to Nguyen Tham (27 years old, Kien Thuy district), stir-fried sea snails are suitable for eating on cool or rainy days, and especially require leisure time to fully enjoy their flavor. "Eating stir-fried sea snails takes even more time than eating snails, and because you have to use your teeth to crack the shells, it's not suitable for people with weak teeth. Although it's a Hai Phong specialty, it takes a lot of time to eat and can cause allergies, so it's not one of my favorite dishes," Tham said.

Thu Mai's family (31 years old, Le Chan district) enjoys stir-fried sea snails at Mrs. Hang's restaurant.

Thu Mai's family (31 years old, Le Chan district) enjoys stir-fried sea snails at Mrs. Hang's restaurant.

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Jellyfish are a type of mollusk similar to jellyfish, so they can cause allergic reactions in some people. For first-time diners, it's recommended to eat a small amount first and wait 15-20 minutes to see how your body reacts.

Every day, Mrs. Hang's stall sells about 10 kg of fresh sea cucumber. As a popular snack, the stall is busiest between 4 PM and 5 PM. On weekends, there are also tourists from other provinces, especially from Hanoi.

Besides Mrs. Hang's stall, many other eateries on Doi Can Street in Luong Van Can Market sell stir-fried sea cucumber for customers to choose from. Sea cucumber is considered cooling, so customers can enjoy it in the summer to cool down. However, because stir-fried sea cucumber tastes better when eaten hot, the number of customers is higher in the winter. This is also the time when sea cucumber salad is sold along the food court of Luong Van Can Market.

Quynh Mai



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