South Korea divided over dog meat

Kim Jong-kil expressed pride in his dog meat farm, which has been operating for 27 years, but Son Won-hak, another breeder, said he is increasingly ashamed of the profession.

Kim Jong-kil, 57, approaches rusty cages at his farm in Pyeongtaek, south of Seoul. He opens a cage, strokes the neck and chest of a dog, and expresses pride in the farm, which has been the family's livelihood for the past 27 years. He plans to hand over the business to his children.

Eating dog meat is a centuries-old custom on the Korean Peninsula. The dish has long been considered a source of energy during hot summer days. But an increasing number of South Koreans are calling for a ban on dog meat, driven by growing concerns about animal rights and worries about the country's image being damaged internationally.

"In the eyes of foreigners, South Korea is a cultural powerhouse. While culture is boosting our country's standing on the international stage, foreigners are even more shocked by the issue of dog meat consumption," said Han Jeoun-ae, a lawmaker who introduced a bill to ban the dog meat industry last month.

However, the prospects for passing this bill are unclear, as dog breeders and restaurant owners are fiercely opposed. Although most Koreans no longer eat dog meat, surveys show that one in three people oppose the government's ban.

Under pressure from politicians and activists, Kim Jong-il expressed his displeasure. "This is terrible. I completely oppose such actions. We will mobilize all means to resist," he said.

Kim Jong-kil stands beside a dog kennel on a farm south of Seoul. Photo: AP

Dog meat is also consumed in China, Vietnam, Indonesia, North Korea, and some African countries such as Ghana, Cameroon, Congo, and Nigeria. However, the issue of dog meat in South Korea receives more international attention because it is the only country with industrial-scale dog meat farms, most of which have more than 500 dogs.

Kim's farm is one of the largest in the country, with over 7,000 animals and appears relatively clean, although some areas "smell terribly," according to an AP reporter.

The dogs are kept in cages, fed leftovers and ground chicken. They are rarely let out to exercise and are usually sold for meat after a year of age. Kim's two children, aged 29 and 31, are running the farm with him. The business is doing well.

Kim argued that dogs raised for meat are "different from pets," a view opposed by activists.

Members of a dog breeders' association protest in Seoul, South Korea, on April 25. Photo: AP

Dog meat is now very difficult to find in the capital Seoul, but it is still common in rural areas.

"My income is only one-third of what it used to be. Young people don't come, only the elderly come for lunch," said Yoon Chu-wol, 77, the owner of a dog meat restaurant in the Kyungdong market area of ​​Seoul. "I usually advise my elderly customers to come more often before this dish is banned."

In addition to public pressure, the dog farm owner also faced increased scrutiny from authorities. They complained that officials repeatedly inspected the farm due to numerous allegations of animal abuse. In just four months, Kim's farm received over 90 complaints.

Son Won-hak, head of the Korean dog breeders' association, said many farms have closed in recent years as demand and prices for dog meat have declined. He attributed this to campaigns by activists and media outlets reporting "unfairly, focusing only on farms with poor conditions." However, some observers suggest that the decline in dog meat consumption is simply due to young people turning away from it.

"Honestly, I want to quit tomorrow. We can't confidently tell our children and grandchildren that we're raising dogs for meat," he said. "Many friends call me, expressing surprise, saying, 'Hey, you're still running a dog farm? Isn't it illegal?'"

According to the association's estimates, the number of dog farms has halved compared to a few years ago, down to about 3,000-4,000 establishments. Approximately 700,000 to one million dogs are slaughtered annually, down from several million 10-20 years ago. However, many activists argue that the association exaggerates the figures, aiming to portray the industry as too large to be eradicated.

Dogs at a meat farm in Namyangju, a suburb of Seoul, in November 2017. Photo: AFP

In late 2021, South Korea established a committee to consider banning dog meat, comprising animal rights activists and dog meat farm owners. The committee met more than 20 times but failed to reach any agreement.

Agricultural officials declined to disclose details of the closed-door meetings and said the government wanted to end dog meat consumption based on public consensus.

In April, when First Lady Kim Keon-hee publicly supported a ban on dog meat, many farm owners staged protests, accusing her of harming their livelihoods. Meanwhile, Representative Han praised the fact that influential figures were speaking out against the dish.

Han said that the bill she drafted includes provisions to support livestock owners who agree to close their farms. They would receive subsidies to dismantle their facilities and would be provided with vocational training and job placement assistance.

Meanwhile, Ju Yeong-bong, a member of the livestock association, said that farm owners want to continue operating for about two decades, until their main customer base of elderly people passes away. "Let this industry disappear naturally," he said.

Duc Trung (According to AP )

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