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The family's "rice pot"

Báo Thanh niênBáo Thanh niên07/09/2023


The owner said that this bread stall has been the "breadbasket" that has supported her family for decades. Now, her son and daughter-in-law have inherited the business, making a living with a special bread recipe passed down from her aunt.

"I've been eating here for decades, I can't give it up!"

Early in the morning, on my way to work, I stopped by Mrs. Nguyen Thi Cuc's (59 years old) bread stall, not too far from my house. The stall is located in a small corner in front of An Dong Market, and unless you're a regular customer or paying close attention, it's not easy to spot. If you happen to miss it, just ask for Mrs. Cuc's bread stall in front of the market; most people nearby know it.

Gánh bánh mì nửa thế kỷ ngon có tiếng chợ An Đông: ‘Chén cơm’ cả gia đình - Ảnh 1.

The sandwiches at Mrs. Cúc's shop are a favorite among many customers.

Around 7 a.m., the peak hour for commuters starting their day, Mrs. Cúc's food stall is also bustling with customers. With a simple plastic table, topped with a tray of braised pork, dumplings, fresh vegetables, pickles, sauces, etc., the owner's food stall looks incredibly appealing.

As soon as I arrived, I smelled the delicious aroma of steamed dumplings. Mrs. Cúc and her son were constantly making sandwiches for customers so that no one would have to wait long, and so that they could get to work on time. Among the owner's regular customers was Mrs. Trần Thị Hồng (56 years old), who lives near An Đông market.

This morning, Mrs. Hong walked from her house to Mrs. Cuc's bread stall to buy four loaves of steamed pork dumplings for her family to eat for breakfast. She said she's been eating at this stall for almost 20 years. Since she started eating Mrs. Cuc's bread, Mrs. Hong rarely eats bread from other places.

Gánh bánh mì nửa thế kỷ ngon có tiếng chợ An Đông: ‘Chén cơm’ cả gia đình - Ảnh 2.

Ms. Cúc has been selling her goods in front of An Đông market for over 40 years.

Gánh bánh mì nửa thế kỷ ngon có tiếng chợ An Đông: ‘Chén cơm’ cả gia đình - Ảnh 3.

The bread stall is simple but appealing.

Some weeks, we buy bread for the whole family every morning. The kids love it! The bread here is delicious; when we buy it to eat at home, the bread is softer but still tastes great, unlike other places. My favorite is the steamed pork bun sandwich, and I occasionally eat a regular pork bun sandwich for a change of pace. The owner's steamed pork buns are so good; they're so delicious that I've been eating them for decades and can't give them up!

Ms. Hong, Customer

After Mrs. Hong, a continuous stream of customers came to order. The owner catered to her customers' every need, happily fulfilling any requests to add or remove ingredients from the sandwich. This is one of the reasons why Ms. Hanh (26 years old, residing in District 5) has been a fan of this sandwich stall for the past four years.

"Back then, I saw a video online about your shop. Since it was near my house, I came to try it, and unexpectedly, it was so delicious that I've been eating there ever since. I've eaten at many places, but I think yours is the best in this area, and the prices are reasonable, so I've become a regular customer," she said.

The whole family sold it, and the son and daughter-in-law inherited it.

Each sandwich at Mrs. Cúc's stall costs between 25,000 and 50,000 VND. I ordered a 25,000 VND pork dumpling sandwich to try, and as advertised, the combination of pork dumplings, fresh vegetables, pickles, and a rich, thick sauce was delicious.

Gánh bánh mì nửa thế kỷ ngon có tiếng chợ An Đông: ‘Chén cơm’ cả gia đình - Ảnh 5.

Mr. Khuong and his mother have been selling bread for many years.

Gánh bánh mì nửa thế kỷ ngon có tiếng chợ An Đông: ‘Chén cơm’ cả gia đình - Ảnh 6.

Ms. Cúc sells her goods from 6 to 11 a.m.

Personally, I'd rate this sandwich an 8 out of 10. Of course, this sandwich stall will become one of my breakfast spots because Mrs. Cúc sells from 6 to 11 am every day.

In a conversation with the reporter, the owner shared that when she was young, because her mother passed away early, she started working as a waitress in a coffee shop to make a living at the age of 13. At 15, following her aunt's advice, she quit that job and started selling bread, all the recipes passed down to her by her aunt. To her, her aunt is like a mother, a benefactor who gave her a profession to earn a living.

Initially, she didn't stay in one place but traveled around District 5. Later, she settled in the An Dong market area, where she's been for 40 years and has a large base of loyal customers. After getting married and having children, she continues selling the food that sustained her from the beginning of her life.

Gánh bánh mì nửa thế kỷ ngon có tiếng chợ An Đông: ‘Chén cơm’ cả gia đình - Ảnh 7.

The owner is known for being very accommodating to customers.

Gánh bánh mì nửa thế kỷ ngon có tiếng chợ An Đông: ‘Chén cơm’ cả gia đình - Ảnh 8.

She is determined to stick with her bread stall until she no longer has the strength to do so.

Now, her son, Lu Trieu Khuong (29 years old), is married and has children. Before the pandemic, he worked as a chef, but for many years he has also helped his mother with her business. His wife also runs a bread cart on Pham Hung Street (District 8). Mrs. Cuc's husband stays at home to help with the business. The owner smiled and said that her whole family lives off this bread shop.

Mr. Khuong said he dreams of inheriting his mother's bread business. Because he studied cooking, he has made some improvements to the recipes his mother passed down, creating a balanced flavor. He hopes that in the not-too-distant future, he can open a larger bread shop, using his mother's bread recipes…



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