Are there too many cafes in Paris?

In Paris, France, allowing businesses to add tables and chairs to public spaces has brought profits to the owners but has drawn complaints from residents.

The clinking of glasses echoed as crowds sipped chilled rosé wine and paired it with cheese at cafes and restaurants in Paris's Bastille district. Waiters weaved through the throngs, trays overflowing with oysters. Children played tag, occasionally running to where their parents were seated. Tourists ordered drinks and took photos to post on Instagram, showing off their European trip.

Customers sit and eat in the outdoor areas of Parisian restaurants and cafes during the summer. Photo: Paris unlocked

The French capital has long been renowned for its café culture. Before the pandemic, it had around 13,000 establishments with outdoor seating. To support businesses struggling during the pandemic, Mayor Anne Hidalgo signed a decree in 2021 allowing the opening of thousands more outdoor spaces, also known as "summer terraces." These are flat areas outside cafés or restaurants where people can sit, eat, drink, and enjoy the surrounding atmosphere.

Thanks to the mayor's decree, previously deserted or rarely visited areas of Paris have been transformed into vibrant destinations. However, these terraces are only permitted to open from April to November each year and must close at 10 pm daily.

Place d'Aligre is one of the areas where authorities have allowed the opening of additional commercial space. Laurent Zennadi, manager of a family-run café, said, "The scene has completely changed." Previously, no one came here in the evenings, but now things are quite different.

Salvatore Cantarella, owner of an Italian restaurant, said he has welcomed a wave of new customers. Business has been booming. "I'm very happy with the positive business results," Salvatore said.

Claire-Anne Haines, sitting behind a small table with friends on the terrace of a pub on Condorcet Street in Montmartre, said: "It's lovely here. The terrace looks so beautiful when I cycle past, so I told my friends to come."

These changes are part of the city mayor's plan to transform Paris into an environmentally friendly city, dedicating public spaces to pedestrians and communal activities.

A café with an outdoor seating area on Montmartre hill. Photo: Paris unlocked.

But not everyone welcomes the changes.

Residents living around the restaurant areas have complained about the noise generated by tourists. They are pressuring the authorities for stricter control over public spaces. Some criticize Mayor Hidalgo for allowing businesses to privatize public spaces. Drivers complain about the loss of parking spaces. Many argue that too many restaurant patios detract from the city's beauty.

Eric Durand, spokesman for Droit au Sommeil (The Right to Sleep), a citizen group represented in all areas of Paris, said: "The situation is terrible." Durand said the noise has increased exponentially where he lives, near Rue des Abbesses on Montmartre hill. Some of his neighbors have moved out. Those who cannot afford to move are forced to keep their windows tightly closed. "We want this encroachment on public space to end," Durand said.

But at City Hall, a government representative said the summer terraces would still be allowed to remain open. "Paris is the city of coffee. They are part of the French art of living," said Deputy Mayor for Commerce Olivia Polski.

Paris currently has around 4,000 licensed, paid summer terraces. These terraces must meet new regulations regarding aesthetics and noise levels, and must close before 10 pm. Polski stated that these establishments are not allowed to play loud music, and owners will be fined or have their licenses revoked for violations.

At Chez Camille, the Zennadi family added 100 seats to their existing 400-seat establishment in Place d'Aligre. Last year, they invested $16,500 in a permit to expand their space in the square, adding more tables and chairs to the outdoor area. Recently, the owners purchased a small brewery to increase their profits.

"Nobody wants a pandemic to happen. But in a way, we can be grateful for the good things it has brought," Zennadi said as he sat with his friends on the sun-drenched terrace of the restaurant, enjoying aperitifs.

( By Anh Minh , according to NYT )

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