Sweetness in khau-sli

In the mountainous region of Dinh Hoa, among the many traditional dishes, khau-sli – a simple puffed rice cake – has long held a special place in the hearts of the Tay people. Outwardly, it's just puffed glutinous rice mixed with golden molasses and a hint of ginger spice. But behind this simplicity lies a profound philosophy: people who know how to unite and share will create lasting strength.

Khau-sli, a rustic treat, is a favorite among many when enjoying tea.

To learn more about the khẩu-sli ritual, I met with Mrs. Nguyen Thi Ha in Bai Lenh village, Dinh Hoa commune. For over a decade, she has been responsible for preparing the khẩu-sli offerings during the Long Tong festival, demonstrating the trust the entire community places in her.

Mrs. Ha recounted her craft with a voice that was both heartfelt and cautionary: To make delicious khẩu sli (a type of Vietnamese sticky rice cake), you have to start with the rice. Glutinous rice like the "nếp vải" or "nếp cái hoa vàng" varieties are the most valuable. Soak the rice for just two hours, then drain it and mix in a little cornstarch or regular rice flour so that the grains don't stick together when steamed. The heat must be carefully controlled; it must be removed from the heat as soon as it's cooked through. If it's overcooked, the rice will become mushy, and the dish will be ruined.

The cooked sticky rice is left to cool, then the grains are fluffed up and left overnight before being pounded to flatten them. The roasting process is not as easy as many people think. Mrs. Ha's secret is to roast only about half a bowl of rice at a time, so the puffed rice grains expand evenly and become crispy. Finally, everything is mixed with thick, sticky molasses, like candy. Using molasses is still the best; that sweetness is so delicate and permeable," Mrs. Ha revealed.

In recent years, people have added sesame seeds, peanuts, or puffed rice to the cake, but for her, the soul of khẩu sli remains the warm, spicy aroma of ginger and the subtle fragrance of molasses.

In Ms. Ha's childhood memories, Tet (Lunar New Year) was a time when the whole family gathered around the fire to make "khau-sli" (a type of Vietnamese rice cake). Smoke clung to the kitchen walls, and the sweet aroma of molasses filled the air. The children eagerly awaited the cakes to cool so they could break off a piece. Because there was no way to preserve them, the cakes were only crispy for one day, so every Tet, her family made them continuously, a new batch each day.

Khẩu-sli was once a precious gift of the Tay people, placed respectfully on altars during festivals, given as a reward to children, and exchanged between neighbors. Before the advent of industrial confectionery, in the Tay villages of Dinh Hoa, it was almost the only sweet treat of Tet (Lunar New Year).

Nowadays, with a more comfortable life and supermarkets overflowing with sweets, khẩu-sli (a type of Vietnamese cake) is still present on the feast tables of the Tay people every spring, during family reunions. It's not because it's elaborate or luxurious, but because it carries memories. People eat khẩu-sli to remember the rhythmic sound of the mortar and pestle, the warm, smoky kitchen, and the shared feelings of the community in this former war zone.

The name of the cake probably says it all: "Khẩu" means rice, and "Sli" means to stick together. The loose grains of rice are bound together by molasses. Just like people, only through unity and sharing can strength be created. This message is conveyed through a simple cake passed down from generation to generation, from one Tet season to the next.

Amidst countless modern delicacies, khẩu sli (a type of Vietnamese rice cake) still holds its own special place, not simply appearing on the feast table, but also carrying significant weight in the community's consciousness as an enduring cultural symbol. On the ancestral altar during Tet (Vietnamese New Year), a piece of khẩu sli is neatly placed as a wish for peace and unity for future generations.

I wonder, what has given khẩu-sli its enduring vitality? Perhaps it's the simplicity, like the genuine affection of the Tay people, embedded in each piece of cake. Just a small slice is enough to evoke warm memories of days gone by, of seasons of reunion. And so, whenever far from home, everyone will remember their village, the lively sound of pestles pounding rice by the hearth, and a heartfelt call will resonate in their hearts: "Let's go home!"

Source: https://baothainguyen.vn/tin-moi/202509/vi-ngot-trong-khau-sli-2243b8f/