Thach Han... A cemetery without tombstones
Amidst the tranquil and sacred atmosphere, surrounded by people from Quang Binh , Quang Tri, and all over the country gathered to prepare for the tribute program "Lantern Festival on the Thach Han River," I suddenly remembered Mr. Le Ba Duong, a veteran of the ancient citadel, who initiated the activity of releasing flowers and lighting candles to honor the heroes and martyrs of the ancient citadel on the Thach Han River.
In 2015, after returning to the mainland from a business trip to the Spratly Islands, in Nha Trang City, I met Mr. Le Ba Duong, who was then the Head of the Khanh Hoa Representative Office of the Culture Newspaper. Knowing that I was from Quang Tri, he showed me quite special affection. In our conversation, he recounted much about the 81-day and 81-night battle to defend the Quang Tri Citadel and his journey of paying tribute to his comrades since 1976. That journey didn't begin at the Quang Tri Citadel but started at Ben Tat, next to the Truong Son National Martyrs' Cemetery, then across the Lai Phuoc Bridge on the Hieu River, to the O Lau River, and finally ending with the Thach Han River. He said: "The Thach Han River was the final destination in my journey of paying tribute. One night, I slept with my comrades in the Citadel; the citadel was covered in white reeds, and I saw fireflies flying everywhere." So I wrote , "A restless sleep amidst the ancient citadel / Blurred in the bright blue light of fireflies / My comrades… how many lie buried here / Staying awake with me all night long."
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When asked about the four "sacred" verses inscribed on the stone slab at the flower-releasing dock on the southern bank of the Thach Han River, Mr. Le Ba Duong seemed lost in nostalgia: It was an afternoon in 1987, sitting by the river, watching the boats row upstream, and the verses just flowed out: "Oh, boat going up the Thach Han River… row gently/My friend still lies at the bottom of the river/At twenty years old, he became waves/Gently lapping the shore… forever and ever."
During the 81 fierce days and nights of fighting to defend the Citadel, every passing moment, every shell dropped, leveled and destroyed everything; it was violent and defiant, blood and bones mingled with shattered bricks. The heroic soldiers of the Citadel created a towering monument to courage, unwavering loyalty, the aspiration for independence and unity, and human conscience and dignity in the face of the nation's destiny... "As long as there is Vietnam, there is the Citadel / A wreath of fire connects Khe Sanh / Medals are hard to come by for every brick / Every inch of land, every second, every leaf and branch" (poem by Tran Bach Dang).
I recall the blood-stained, smoke-stained, and mud-covered pages of the diary of veteran Ho Duy Thien, former Chairman of the People's Committee of Tuyen Hoa District, written by him during the Battle of Quang Tri Citadel. This helps me understand that beneath that sacred river, deep within the citadel's soil, lies the eternal resting place of many soldier-students from the North. Veteran Ho Duy Thien wrote: "During the period of 1970-1972, more than 10,000 students from universities in the capital, such as the Polytechnic University, the University of Science and Technology, the University of Agriculture, the University of Medicine, the University of Construction, the University of Economics and Planning, and the University of Water Resources, were ready to 'Put aside their pens and take up arms/Following the example of the ancients to save the nation.'" This generation of student soldiers was present on battlefields throughout the region, from the Quang Tri Citadel to the Southeast, the Central Highlands, and participated in the historic Ho Chi Minh Campaign. Of the more than 10,000 students who "went to the South," over half perished on the southern fronts, in neighboring Laos... But the highest number was still in the 81-day and 81-night campaign to defend Quang Tri Citadel in 1972.
The war ended, and the loyal soldiers who defended the Citadel became one with every inch of land and every brick of the ancient citadel. Their 20s were forever lost to their motherland, Quang Tri. Among the thousands of soldiers who perished at the Citadel, some sacrificed their lives right on the Thach Han River. Their bodies dissolved into the waves and the alluvial soil of the riverbanks. The Thach Han River is likened to a cemetery without tombstones, becoming a shared sorrow for the entire nation, an unending memory for their loved ones, families, friends, comrades, homeland, and country… “Walk softly and speak quietly / So my comrades may rest peacefully beneath the grass / The sky over Quang Tri is clear and windy / Singing an immortal song forever / Walk softly and speak quietly / The Citadel is vast, yet my comrades lie crowded together / Every inch of land holds a real life / Making me choke with emotion today” (poem by Pham Dinh Lan).
A promise made before the sacred river.
At exactly 8 PM, the tribute program "Lantern Festival on the Thach Han River" began. From the bell tower at the northern gate of the ancient citadel, the chimes rang out, echoing far and wide, blending with the waves of the Thach Han River... deeply touching the hearts of the people.
In this solemn moment, we observe a minute of silence to remember and honor the heroic martyrs who sacrificed their lives at the Citadel, on the Thach Han River, in Quang Tri province, for the independence and freedom of the Fatherland, and for the bright future of the nation. May the souls of these heroic martyrs rest in eternal peace.
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Before the spirits of the fallen heroes of the ancient citadel, the Editor-in-Chief of Quang Tri Newspaper and Radio-Television Station, Vo Nguyen Thuy, expressed: “The collective of cadres, officials, and employees of Quang Tri Newspaper and Radio-Television Station, Quang Binh Newspaper and Radio-Television Station, central press agencies; cadres and people of Quang Tri province... remember, respect, and are grateful to our brothers and sisters. We, those working in print, radio, and television journalism, pledge to continuously strive to contribute to continuing the glorious history of our ancestors, building our homeland and country to become increasingly prosperous and strong.”
Journalist Phan Anh Tuan, Head of the Secretariat-Editing Department of Quang Binh Newspaper and Radio and Television Station, said emotionally: “I, along with the entire staff, reporters, editors, and those working for the Party newspaper of Quang Binh province, are very honored and proud to participate in the tribute program “Lantern Festival on the Thach Han River” on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the Vietnamese Revolutionary Press Day; at the same time that the two provinces of Quang Binh and Quang Tri are preparing to merge; and the two main press agencies of the two provinces are preparing to consolidate. Lighting incense sticks in gratitude, gently releasing each lantern to commemorate the heroes and martyrs of Quang Tri Citadel, we fully feel the noble sacrifice of our brothers and sisters for the cause of national liberation and reunification of the Fatherland. Soon, Quang Binh and Quang Tri will be one family. We promise before the spirits of the heroes and martyrs that we will always remain steadfast and determined for the cause of the Vietnamese revolutionary press, for the renewal, development, and prosperity of our new homeland, Quang Tri.”
| The "Lantern Festival on the Thach Han River" tribute program, organized by Quang Tri Newspaper and Radio and Television Station, included participation from Quang Binh Newspaper and Radio and Television Station, conveying a message of solidarity and close ties between journalists from Quang Tri and Quang Binh. Lighting incense and releasing lanterns in remembrance of the heroic martyrs of the ancient citadel, the journalists of the Party always remind themselves to cherish the glorious past, to look towards the future, and for the advancement of their homeland and country. |
Ngo Thanh Long
Source: https://baoquangbinh.vn/van-hoa/202506/chuyen-ke-tren-dong-song-thieng-2227106/
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